.257 mold source

[Et2ss]

Hello,

New to the forums. Tuned in here under the advice of txpete. I had recently acquired a Savage 1899 takedown in 25/35 cal. I cast for most of my rifles & have had good luck with cheapie LEE molds. Unfortunately thay don't make any .257 's.
Has there been a group buy or any body interested in a group effort for one in the 115-120 gr. weight?

Thanks,

Bruce

[mazo kid]

I've had a fair amount of luck at getting a couple of 257 moulds off ebay at decent prices. Some get carried away in their bidding so I just watch and wait. Emery

[JohnH]

I shoot the RCBS 257120 in a 25-06, it is more than worth the money

[Et2ss]

Thanks John. What diameter does it throw them at? I saw where I can get one for $48. Having no experience with RCBS dies......do they come with handles or do they need to be purchased separately?

Thanks,

Bruce

[9.3X62AL]

The RCBS moulds are sold as "blocks only", and require a set of RCBS handles that interchange with all RCBS mould blocks. The RCBS handles are also used with Mountain Molds and NEI mould blocks, which leads me into my next bit.

I have a Win 94 in 25-35, and its go-to mould is the NEI 114 grain flatnose gas-checked design, which is likely purpose-designed for the 25-35 caliber. I have also used the RCBS 120 grain spitzer design with fine accuracy in this rifle, but it must be single-loaded in my rifle on account of its pointed nose. Your Savage 99 can use the spitzers just fine.

Keep in mind that most 25-35's use a pretty fast rifling twist, 1:8" usually. Cast boolits sometimes get squirrelly if driven much past 1600 FPS in these quick pitches.

[JohnH]

Mine drops a boolit that is 252 nose diameter and 258 shank.

[NVScouter]

On the subject I'm looking at buying a .258 mould for my 250-3000 Savage 99. Its a great round and I love the 100gr Interlock and the 87gr TNT in it. Now I want to expand that to a 65-90gr cast preferably with a FP so I can HP it if needed. A few tests on Jacks and ground squirrels will tell me if I need that or not.

What mould would you recomend and hardness I have about 200# of pure lead and maybe 30# of WW.

I'm reading like mad here and casting ingots before buying moulds.

[JohnH]

On the subject I'm looking at buying a .258 mould for my 250-3000 Savage 99. Its a great round and I love the 100gr Interlock and the 87gr TNT in it. Now I want to expand that to a 65-90gr cast preferably with a FP so I can HP it if needed. A few tests on Jacks and ground squirrels will tell me if I need that or not.

What mould would you recomend and hardness I have about 200# of pure lead and maybe 30# of WW.

I'm reading like mad here and casting ingots before buying moulds.

The alloy I'm using is 50/50 lead/WW then cut 50/50 again with Lino. Makes about 15 BHN. I"ve been driving it at 1600 fps without trouble using FWFL lube, and have driven it to 2200 fps before I got a small lead star at the muzzle, though no leading appeared to be present in the barrel. Straight WW ought to work prety well to 2000. We had an untagged stray dog showing up this spring harrasing our dogs, so I resolved the problem with the RCBS boolit at 1600 fps. Nothing spectacular, and I'd use a different solution today, essentially a through and through and it took a little while for the results to take full effect (a clean lung shot at 20 yards) I don't believe the design of the RCBS boolit would lend itself to HP'ing, perhaps a softer alloy would have helped, certainly more velocity would have helped. You may want to strike up a conversation with Buckshot, as he's converted some molds to a hollow point design.

[9.3X62AL]

NV Scouter--

I have a 99 x 250 Savage, and it has done fine work with the NEI #18 (I think), the 100 grain spire point bore rider that looks like a RG-4 pattern. This boolit has done so well that I've largely ignored Lymans #257420 and #257312--flatnoses of 72 and 88 grains respectively--in the 250. I have loads set aside with these two latter designs, and will be trying them out shortly.

The spire point 100 grainer does not disappoint on jacks and rats at 1600-1700 FPS, nor do the flatnoses at 1400-1600 FPS. My own view of hollow-pointing these designs is that it complicates something that does well as-is.

[Bret4207]

On that take down 99, if you can detect any play whatsoever in the recv'r/barrel junction then forget the takedown feature and use some Loc-Tite on the threads and consdier it a solid frame. You'll get more headaches trying to overcome the takedown issue than you'd believe.

[NVScouter]

NV Scouter--

I have a 99 x 250 Savage, and it has done fine work with the NEI #18 (I think), the 100 grain spire point bore rider that looks like a RG-4 pattern. This boolit has done so well that I've largely ignored Lymans #257420 and #257312--flatnoses of 72 and 88 grains respectively--in the 250. I have loads set aside with these two latter designs, and will be trying them out shortly.

The spire point 100 grainer does not disappoint on jacks and rats at 1600-1700 FPS, nor do the flatnoses at 1400-1600 FPS. My own view of hollow-pointing these designs is that it complicates something that does well as-is.

I was looking at that 88gr and thinking it would work nicely. I agree that making it a HP would be going against design and I will wait until after trying as is to think about it. Maybe Hp a few by hand to see if it would even help.

Any body want to get rid of one of those? PM if you do.

[Dale53]

I have a Marlin lever action (modern issue) in 25/20 that works VERY well with Lyman's 257420 GC. I use Linotype and a compressed load of RL-7. It gets just under 2200 fps with excellent accuracy. Loaded down with 4.0 grs of Unique, it shoots just as well, and is an absolute Jim Dandy Squirrel load. It is far better than the .22 rimfire with little meat damage.

Dale53

[Et2ss]

On that take down 99, if you can detect any play whatsoever in the recv'r/barrel junction then forget the takedown feature and use some Loc-Tite on the threads and consdier it a solid frame. You'll get more headaches trying to overcome the takedown issue than you'd believe.


Peening hammer and some patience is MUCH better than loc-tite. I have a 20's dated 30-30 TD than someone did the loc-tit 'fix' to :???: Wish I knew a good way of reversing that!

[Dale53]

This is no more than a suggestion. However, single shot rifles are often lock tited for increased accuracy. If a judicious amount of heat is applied, the lock tite will come loose (IF and I emphasize IF it is the correct type). You might try this. IF the right type is used, the heat required is not a "lot" and it comes loose rather easily. Controlled heat is better than using a torch (if the wood is removed, it might be possible to get the rifle in an oven where you have complete control over the heat. The least amount of heat that will work is what you want to shoot for. In other words, sneak up on it. Lock tite specs may have the information that you seek..

Use care as you don't want to anneal the rifle!!

FWIW
Dale53

[Et2ss]

Controlled heat is no problem, I have a large smoker that I use for curing finishes & also set on super low with a pan of water, is my moisture cabinet for rust bluing. I'll have to contact Loc-tite to see what temp might work to loosen the bond. This particular rifle was done back in the 60's I'm sure. It's the 2nd one down in the pic. The 25/35 is at the bottom

http://www.newphillysports.com/milsurp/Savages.jpg

[NVScouter]

And to think I almost opened my cake hole to advise you on pricing those guys :D


Beautiful collection.