Pedersoli Sharps DST tip

[montana_charlie]

One thing a Pedersoli owner will notice that is different from a Shiloh Sharps is the adjustment for the double set triggers.

The Pedersoli has two adjustment screws...the Shiloh, only the one (between the triggers) which adjusts travel of the front trigger.

The second adjustor (on the Ped) is a setscrew buried in the trigger bar (lower tang) with only it's screw slot visible. It adjusts the height of the main trigger spring, and (through that) the amount of play of the rear trigger when in the unset condition.

If you want to change the setting of this screw, be advised that "some guns" have a locking screw in the side of the trigger bar. Trying to turn the adjustor will simply goober up the slot, if it is locked in position.

The only way to see (or loosen) this locking screw is with the trigger bar separated from the stock recess.

I saw the locking screw pictured in the (downloaded) Pedersoli manual, but had the impression that it is a rare thing (for some reason)...so I ignored the information while attempting to adjust mine.

I have a new screw on order, and it should be here in a day or two, along with a few other odds and ends.

CM

[John Boy]

Charlie, why is it your posts are stuffed full of valuable information? Again, Good Post!

Over on bpcr.net - buried in the Technical Stuff is this article by Dick Trenk with additional information on DST's...
http://www.bpcr.net/site_docs-results_schedules/documents/Double_and_Single_set_Trigger_Adjustment.htm

[montana_charlie]

Charlie, why is it your posts are stuffed full of valuable information?
Probably because guys consider it 'valuable' if the information helps them fix their gun...or keep from breaking it.

Since I am mechanically oriented and 'impetuous', I often learn how to break things...then spend time discovering how to prevent that mistake.

If I then post both lessons...many will call it 'valuable' information because they don't have to learn either one the hard way.

Thanks for the link to Dick Trenk's trigger adjustment page.
I already had read (and understood) how to make the adjustment, but ran into trouble when the setscrew refused to turn.

Assuming it was frozen in place, I discarded my jeweler's screwdriver and soaked the screw in penetrating oil...while grinding a Chapman bit to fit. With that kind of strength, I was able to destroy the top of the screw quite handily...but not make it turn.

The only option remaining was complete disassembly...allowing discovery of the key factor.
CM

[crossfireoops]

Neat Stuff, ......valuable information , for sure.....

M.C., can you post a link for the downloadable manual ? Ive had one of these trigger groups apart for over a year, and aim to get back on the project pretty quick....Can't hurt to view that manual one bit, I reckon. The trigger plate I've got in my hand has no lock screw, for what that's worth.

Thanks,

GTC

Obliged

[montana_charlie]

M.C., can you post a link for the downloadable manual ?
Sure, Crossfire... http://www.davide-pedersoli.com/pdf/manualsEn.pdf
It is titled "General Information", and is not an in-depth study of firearms design.

But it does have a drawing that is relatively clear...and it shows #5, the screw that fooled me.
CM

[crossfireoops]

Gotta' say, .......your post had me thinkin' about all the compendium of *****S I've self entangled in,........

My compliments on a damn fine piece of writing.

The only people who don't make mistakes are those that never do anything, anyway.

GTC

[montana_charlie]

I have one final thing to add to this lesson.

The wording in the Pedersoli manual which made me think I didn't need to worry about the locking screw said "some" rifles had it, and those would be the "heavy recoiling" rifles.
Somehow, I thought (incorrectly) that left me out of the picture.

While waiting for my replacement screw, I searched around for a piece of birdshot that would fit in the hole for Screw #5. I was unsuccessful, but I played with dripping molten Cerrosafe through a slotted spoon, into cold water.
Eventually, I produced a 'sphere' that was small enough.

I ground the sharp point off of the locking setscrew (#5) so it would 'push' rather than 'penetrate' the Cerrosafe BB, and used a punch to bottom the BB against the side of the adjustment screw.

With the trigger group out of the stock, so all screws were accessible, I gradually tightened the locking screw against the BB until I could just barely turn the adjustment screw with a jeweler's screwdriver.

The friction is low enough to allow adjustment in the field, while being tight enough (I believe) to prevent change due to recoil.

The only cause for concern that I can think of is this...
Will the elements in Cerrosafe promote corrosion of the steel?
I will periodically pull the trigger group to check for that occurrence.

CM

[floodgate]

montana charlie:

Good solution!

Reminds me - as has been mentioned MANY times, but still worth repeating - ANY time you've got a set screw bearing on threads, and might need to re-set it some day (like die lock rings), drop a piece of shot, soft copper, Cerrosafe or whatever into the hole under the tip of the screw, and then tighten until the ring or whatever stays put. With die lock rings, when I want to relocate them, I loosen the screw a half-turn and rap them sharply, screw head down, against my vise pad and they release easily. (Can't really do that with set-triggers, though, can you?)

I can't imagine Cerrosafe causing any corrosion.

floodgate

[crossfireoops]

Bismuth alloys aren't hygroscopic.....no corrosion sweat there.

Better set trigger adjustment Blues solution.........

Permatex "Gasket Shellac"

Dope your parts, and let them dry a bit before assembly.

Just "Gummy " enough to goo things up, ...without siezing 'em........Permatex #3 ain't all that bad, either.

Washes off real easy during periodic Maintainance.

Loctite is for greenhorns, and congenitally deformed idiots.

GTC

[montana_charlie]

I have a small plastic bottle of 'Loc Tite' left over from my service years. It doesn't actually say Loc Tite on it...just a bunch of government mumbo jumbo...but you will find the words "thread sealant" in there.
I retired in '85, and this stuff is still good to use, and I am careful to keep it sealed up.

This stuff never fully hardens when applied to screw threads. It does get harder than when applied, but reaches a state of 'extremely gummy', and stays there. Screws (and bolts) treated with it do not vibrate loose, but can be turned without special treatment.

The stuff is purple.

Loc Tite makes a thread sealant that is purple. I have never seen any, but I have seen it described on their website. I think it is (probably) the same stuff I have.

I use it on all kinds of things, but not guns. Somehow, it just goes against my grain to have any 'gooey' stuff around a firearm.
CM

[crossfireoops]

Assuming that the female threaded recess is well tapped / threaded, and that the trigger, or trigger plate ( action style dependant) is well hardened......I'm completely comfortable using a softer screw, ....with the thread deformed / peened / distressed just enough to run "Tight"

That old General Electric "Glyptol" is bees knees for applications discussed........sadly unavailable know.

I think a bunch of Kaliforia lab rats died when fed a steady diet of the stuff.

GTC

[crossfireoops]

Crap, .....fergot to add,....the "Purple" is a Hydraulic sealant..........and was advertised as being compatible with all hydraulic fluids.

GOOD Stuff, .....albeit poisonous as all get out.

READ the MSDS on "Methacrylic esters" sometimes,.........you'll get a whole lot more careful about how you handle the stuff.

ALL "Loctites" are methacrylic -esters, .....anerobic polymer chain reactors.

I've used GALLONS of the stuff over the years, and have had several training clinics from the Factory Reps.

In closing,.........NEVER underestimate the power of Loctite Red.

And DO wear nitrile gloves, while you're slooshing it around, lest you cop some congenital deformity....and THAT is the FACTS, Jacks.

GTC