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customcutter
12-14-2013, 11:21 AM
I had a link to the PDF saved in my favorites and it no longer works. Also did a google search this AM, and can't find it. I've got the 2 articles in American Rifleman IIRC, that start out sebagosales.... Just wanted to read that article one more time and look at his drawings.

Does anyone have a link that works?

Doing my homework, and getting ready to start back on my .223 dies. Didn't make any drawings for the point forming die, or the core swaging die, and want to make sure I have the principles down right before I start turning more parts.

Thanks,
CC

customcutter
12-14-2013, 04:11 PM
Here's the link if anyone is interested.

http://www.rtconnect.net/~wjmanley/SAS_Die_making/SASswagedie.pdf

Don't ask me why, but I clicked on the link in my favorites and it wouldn't work. I spent a few hours on a google search "swage dies PDF" and after reading most of Corbins #9 swaging hand book (265 pages), I clicked on another search link from the google search and it was the same link as I had. I saved it to my favorites again and it even said it already existed did I want to replace it. I think there was something wrong and it was timing out before.

FYI, there were a few other interesting PDF's that I hadn't seen before.

aaronraad
12-16-2013, 02:25 AM
I had a link to the PDF saved in my favorites and it no longer works. Also did a google search this AM, and can't find it. I've got the 2 articles in American Rifleman IIRC, that start out sebagosales.... Just wanted to read that article one more time and look at his drawings.

Does anyone have a link that works?

Doing my homework, and getting ready to start back on my .223 dies. Didn't make any drawings for the point forming die, or the core swaging die, and want to make sure I have the principles down right before I start turning more parts.

Thanks,
CC

I've taken a few notes from the PDF previously. It all seems to go around in a big circle, but if I starts anywhere my guess is the jacket.

What starting point will you use to kick-off your die design from CC?

customcutter
12-16-2013, 10:23 PM
I've taken a few notes from the PDF previously. It all seems to go around in a big circle, but if I starts anywhere my guess is the jacket.

What starting point will you use to kick-off your die design from CC?

I started off with a 7/32 drill bushing press inserted into a die body for a de-rimming die. I'm going to try making cores from a mold drilled out to 3/16 and hope they are consistent weights. If not I'm going to try and make a core swaging die with a 3/16 drill bushing (got to figure out how to drill a bleed hole in RC60 drill bushing, I've got some small carbide bits, but haven't tried it yet). The core seating die needs to bump up close to .224 but slightly below, not sure what dimension yet but Cane-man or Prospector Howard can weigh in on that. I think you also need to keep your core seating pin a tight fit so that you have little or no "flashing" of the lead core up past the edges of the pin. Corbins book indicated that a 2% weight variance had little effect on accuracy, but improperly seated cores or air pockets in the base or top or anywhere in between the jacket and core would cause accuracy problems. What I'm trying to get worked out is the length of the top, middle, and bottom sections of the pin and die body so that everything works properly on the core seating die. That one a little more complicated when you start looking at it closely. I'll probably make the core seating die with a threaded top and bottom section so that I have some adjustment for different core weights also. There are a few critical things going on that you have to take into consideration. One of them I found while reading Corbin's #9 swage book that I hadn't considered. The point forming die has to be long enough that the seated core and jacket have to fit into the die deep enough that you don't "nail head" the core and jacket. "Nail heading" is a term they came up with to describe what happens to the core and jacket when the bottom is flattened due to not being fully up into the die.

Best advice is to just get started. Experience is a good teacher, but there's no sense in re-inventing the wheel. Start a thread and start asking questions. If you want to do some more reading click on my name and look back in June, July, August time period there are 3-4 threads that I had and Cane-man had with lots of information.

aaronraad
12-17-2013, 01:46 AM
I use a range of core seating punches, about 5 with 0.0005" increments. This seems to cover jacket variances from batch to batch and most of my different core weights and jacket combinations for each calibre.

The length of the point forming die is critical when forming boat tail bases. If you're punch isn't fully supported inside the pointing die you'll be lucking to get any nail heading before your punch cracks altogether.