RCBS Ammomaster Progressive and Piggyback II's Hints and Tips Thread

[Monkymate]

I recently got into progressive reloading after doing it all on a single stage for 10 years. I sort of fell into deals on the RCBS progressives that use the tube primer setup and now find myself with one Ammomaster and 3 Piggyback II's with a RS5 Press that they attach to. I have been using them for about 2 years now and find that there is a lack of information about these presses on the web and some outright bad information about them. I am starting this thread to add tips tricks and upgrades all in one place that I have found works and please add more to it for what you have found works. Again this is what works for me. I am looking for other peoples experience and tips and tricks. Please do not use the thread to bash this equipment.

1st a description of the presses:

Ammomaster - 5 stage progressive or manual indexing (you choose). It can also be setup as a single stage press with a kit and also has a kit to reload 50 BMG. It is also strong enough to perform some bullet swaging. As it comes from RCBS it has an automatic case activated powder dispensing system with a shell sensing system. It did not have a case feeder or bullet feeder from the factory although people have added other brands equipment to add these features. If you had to have just one press this one is the only one I know of that can do it all.

Piggyback II - This came before the Ammomaster and is what it was designed (upsized) from. It has all of the features of the Ammomaster in a smaller size. It can handle all pistol calibers. It requires a RS5 or Rock Chucker press to work as it attaches on the top of these presses. It says it can handle .223/5.56 and 7.62x39 BUT I have had problems with this on my press with the Lee Dies I use so I only load pistol loads on the Piggybacks.

My setups that I have found that work:

Piggyback II - I have one setup for Large Primers and one setup for Small Primers. I use the following dies in these positions. I use mostly Lee Dies except for a few exceptions. I have found that they work great and produce ammo that works great for me. There are some limitations they have but overall they just work. I have modified my RCBS RS5 press by drilling a hole in the top front arm of the press that lines up with the alignment pin on the Piggyback. Normally the alignment pin would be removed when used with a RS5 press but I find it useful.

Station 1 - Size and De-prime Die setup with press at top of stroke and screw in against the shell plate holder and then back press arm off and turn die in 1/4 turn.

Station 2 - No die. Priming system only.

Station 3 - Lee Powder through expander dies with a Lee Auto Disc Powder Measure setup properly. Adjust the die in until it will just work the powder measure through a full stroke any more will damage brass and any less with result in inaccurate powder charges. I have polished the base of the powder dispenser where the plates go and I make sure to not tighten down the screws that hold the powder dispenser too tight. These measures will throw consistent charges if you take some time with them. They have a better case sensing mechanism that the RCBS powder drop system. I have used the Pro version of this measure but found that the standard Auto Disc works just as well and is cheaper. Also I always install the swivel adapters on all of these powder measures. The expander portion of the die seems to work well for me and expands the case mouth for easy feeding of boolits and bullets.

Station 4 - Lee Bullet seating die. I use Lee's instructions to set this die up for no crimp. It is just used to seat the bullet. These dies come apart easy for cleaning (bullet lube mostly from my 45/45/10 tumble lube).

Station 5 - Lee Factory Crimp Die. I have found that these dies will give me the crimp I need and will also ensure the cases will feed in my autoloaders. Just follow the Lee instructions for setup.

Some tips for the pistol setup.

-The Piggyback to Press nut is hard to tighten with the included wrench. Remove the alignment pin and you get the room you need to use the wrench and then you can put the pin back in. If it comes loose it will affect your stroke. Check that it stays tight by trying to move the piggyback relative to the RS5 press before you start loading and after every primer tube.

-ALWAYS ALWAYS use full strokes. It will keep you from damaging the indexing bushing and causing the press to come out of time.

-This is not a race. Take your time and watch all of the stations. Listen to the sounds. Get a rhythm going. Get a feel for the press.

-Look at all cases prior to putting them in the press. Check for proper caliber, military/crimped brass (put them aside for proper depriming and primer pocket swaging before running through the progressive press). A crimped primer pocket and forcing the press is probably how I did most of my damage to the press. If it feels hard on the priming stroke then STOP and remove that piece of brass and primer. You can lift up the shell plate slightly (not enough to get the indexing rod up into the twist portion) and remove the shell and primer. If you lift the shell plate too far then manually index the shell plate around. Unload it and start over. It will save you time over replacing the index bushing. You will be safe if you don't lift higher than the top of the indexing pin.

-If the priming stroke feels like a hard stop without a slight resistance then you are either out of primers or it failed to pick one up. Check the priming system. I have found polishing all of the priming system parts and following the manuals instructions to the letter results in a system that works. Also ANY powder spill or getting dirt/oil/grease etc in the priming system will mess it up. If I spill powder I use compressed air (my compressor and garage are right next to my bench) and blow out all of it. If it failed to pick up a primer lift the shell plate with the arm until it is just at the top of the alignment pin and pull back on the primer arm to pick up a primer and then allow it to go back to position to prime the shell and stroke the arm back up to prime.

-Until you either smooth out the powder measure or are sure it is setup properly you should pull a case every 10 -20 cases to check charge. Make sure the powder measure is doing a full stroke and is returning to the start position to get the next charge. I also have a light shining down towards the press in that area so I can see the charge in the case. After these powder measures are smoothed out and setup properly they are very reliable.

-Once you get the feel of it and get a rhythm going you can load 200-300 per hour comfortably. That is the speed that I get with mine without trying too hard. Use the primer tube filling breaks to check some of the loaded rounds for primer seating depth and crimp appearance.

-The manual is your friend. Use it and follow the instructions in it. I believe most of the problems attributed to these presses are due to not following the instructions. I can and have gone over 1000 rounds in a loading session without a problem. But that is the exception. I will usually have a few issues in a loading session but it is normally my error or a crimped primer pocket I missed.

Next Post I will cover the Ammomaster and my rifle setup. Please feel free to add any tips you can share on these great presses. I will also take some pictures and add them later.

[fguffey]

I have two Piggy Back 11 presses, I find the advantage of the 5 position tool head allows for a lock out die, I will not load on a progressive press without one. I can seat on one position and crimp on another, but for years I have seated and crimped on one position.

I also have the Dillon 550B, it is used more for rifle than for short cases. I use a powder checker die on it.

Shell plates, if a reloader has shell plates for the Piggy Back type press there is an advantage when upgrading to The Pro 2000 and or the #3.

F. Guffey

[OuchHot!]

I also use the lee powder through measure system on my Ammomaster for pistol reloads. I found the Dillon primer alarm is easy to adapt to the ammomaster and prevents those frustrating hard stops when the primer tube runs dry. I use a smooth full stroke and find the ammomaster to be very smooth and reliable. I like the extra room for my fingers. My only complaint is the very long operating handle is overkill for pistol reloading and it looks like the custom handle that I have on my Hornady LnL progressive (also a very fine press). will fit and shorten the stroke. The ammomaster is very nice for rifle as the leverage makes easy work.

[1bluehorse]

I also use the lee powder through measure system on my Ammomaster for pistol reloads. I found the Dillon primer alarm is easy to adapt to the ammomaster and prevents those frustrating hard stops when the primer tube runs dry. I use a smooth full stroke and find the ammomaster to be very smooth and reliable. I like the extra room for my fingers. My only complaint is the very long operating handle is overkill for pistol reloading and it looks like the custom handle that I have on my Hornady LnL progressive (also a very fine press). will fit and shorten the stroke. The ammomaster is very nice for rifle as the leverage makes easy work.

I have three of the Ammomaster Auto presses, one was/is the BMG model (it's a bit bigger than my other two) that I'd changed over to a progressive but when I bought the third one I changed it back to a SS....so two in progressive mode...HUGE presses, very smooth and very versatile (I have run one in manual index mode loading 223).....also I'd be curious to find out if the custom handle for your Hornady fits the AM, I've seen pictures and looks like they would be a real benefit....the best "change" I've made to these presses (and one of the reasons I think they weren't more popular) was to change that hoke powder charge system with the new Linkage type...now that's made a world of difference to me...I tried a Lee Pro disc measure but couldn't get it to clear the indexing rod when I cycled the press...turned it all which ways....no worky for me....I wouldn't trade them for any other press...

[OuchHot!]

I think that there is a spacer for the lee Pro disc that goes atop the powder thru die...I'm at work now but I'll take a look at what I did to mine when I can. I am using the Pro disc on pistol calibers so I know it can be done and clear the index rod. I didn't install the Hornady LnL handle yet but I recall thinking it was the same dia and the dog leg looked just right......I bought it from vendor off this list a year or so ago.

[cheese1566]

One AmmoMaster and two Piggies. I didn't like the long straight handle on the AmmoMaster so I had a machine shop take about 6" off and thread it. While at it, I had them bend the bottom a few degrees. It now resembles the handles on my Hornady ProJectors in length and offset. Plus, I had them thread the 6" short section so I can put it back on in case I need the length back.

[Catshooter]

Piggy & Ammomaster are what I use.

The little spring that returns the primer shuttle to it's rest position for me has been prong to fly at warp speed across the shop, never to be see again. So I drilled and tapped one of the little nubs it slips over and installed a 4x40 screw there.

I use the RCBS powder measures on them. The first time I tried one of their micrometer adjusters I quickly threw away the ones they ship with the measures and installed micros. Very sweet.

Replaced both of the 8x32 finger screws that hold the progressing ratchet arm to the shell plate with Allen heads. Also drilled and tapped the set screw that clamps the case ejector (was a 6x32) to a 10x32 for better gripping and now it takes the same Allen wrench that all the other small screws do.

I tend to load a primer tube full and then go do something else. I leave the press set up ready to pull the handle for next time.

I replaced the handle on the RockChucker with one the same length as the Ammomaster. I heated and bent an offset in both machines handles for a little better clearance.

Oh yes. The hole in the frame that the spent primer tube runs through was scoring up the side of the plastic badly so I drilled it out (I think to 5/8ths, not sure) and then beveled the top of the frame to aide it's movement.

I love these presses. I've tried a few of others' presses and have come back to these beauties. I load from 32 ACP to 45-70 progressively. I like the fact that you can see the powder fall. That way you know it's there.

I set my dies up this way:

1. Size/de-prime.
2. Bell (usually a Lyman M die)/prime.
3. Powder drop. I can see it fall so no need for a powder check die.
4. Bullet seating. No crimping here usually.
5. Crimping. Mostly a Lee Factory Crimp die.


Cat

[A pause for the COZ]

Its interesting all the different ways people get use from their tools.
I use my Piggy 2 pretty much just for 45 acp. I have and it will do many others up to 223. But 45 is what I am shooting in Volume right now.
I decap and prime off the press. Not because my Piggy wont do it. But I wanted station 2 for a powder drop station.
I dont want to seat a primmer under my powder drop.
Starting with a unsized, primmed case.

Station 1= Full length size with out the decapping pin.

Station 2= Expand case mouth/Powder drop using LEE auto disk pro.

Station 3= Powder check die.

Station 4= Hornady bullet feed die, converted for cast bullets and tube feed.

Station 5= Seat and crimp.

Thats how I use it 80% of the time. Some times my whims kick in and I try some thing different.

[OuchHot!]

I took a look at my ammomaster and there is nothing special about the way I mounted the lee prodisc for pistol reloading. The measure would be right next to the knob on the stock lever but I decided that lever was too long anyhoo. I had bought the ergo lever from Inline Fabrication for my hornady LnL progressive and so I put the old stock hornady lever onto the ammomaster....same threads etc but 6-7" shorter. The hornady lever just comes up to the die plate level and gives me plenty of knuckle room and leverage (it is red, however). I use the rcbs measure for rifle reloading but never felt the need to go back to the long lever.

[1bluehorse]

I took a look at my ammomaster and there is nothing special about the way I mounted the lee prodisc for pistol reloading. The measure would be right next to the knob on the stock lever but I decided that lever was too long anyhoo. I had bought the ergo lever from Inline Fabrication for my hornady LnL progressive and so I put the old stock hornady lever onto the ammomaster....same threads etc but 6-7" shorter. The hornady lever just comes up to the die plate level and gives me plenty of knuckle room and leverage (it is red, however). I use the rcbs measure for rifle reloading but never felt the need to go back to the long lever.


The reason I was having trouble with the Lee Pro Disc on the Ammomaster is, I was trying to use it in station two so I could gain a station.....nope.....(the combination of the index rod and primer tube wouldn't allow it for room) however I found out when I started reloading 9mm that the new case activated powder linkage I installed on the Uniflows wouldn't adjust for fit with that dinky case, so I installed the Lee in station three with the powder through expander (station two is empty) and it works absolutely great....I could re-install the original powder drop system (ugh) but the Lee works so well the original isn't even in the equation now.....but I'll probably only use the Lee for 9mm, the Uniflows with the new linkage system works very well for everything else I load for...

[lt250r_86]

I've reloaded on an Ammomaster for 20 years. Recently switched over to a Dillon XL650, so the Ammomaster doesn't get much love anymore. The Ammomaster is a great press. I didn't like the uniflow with the rod system and switched over to the new linkage system witch was a great improvement.

[Monkymate]

Tips for reloading .223 7.62x39 and 300 AAC Blackout on Piggyback II

-Use manual indexing. Rounds are too long for auto indexing with Lee Dies.
-Again as with any brass no brass with crimped primer pockets. De-crimp before loading.

[rpludwig]

http://www.handloadersbench.com/forum12/17994.html

regarding the PBII, follow this link in a thread I posted (#15, 17) from a few years back, may help those using, or having issues with the PBII...just my experience....fwiw.

[Patrick L]

I have an original Piggyback (upgraded) and an Ammo Master Progressive, and I love them both. I actually bought the Ammo Master based on my positive experience with the PB when I decided to start loading .30-06 progressively.

Although switching primer sizes is not hard, I have settled into a routine where everything that uses small primers gets loaded on the PB, everything that gets a large primer gets loaded on the Ammo Master. For me that means the PB loads 9mm, .38 spl, .357 magnum, .30 carbine, and .223 (which gives me no problems.) The Ammo Master loads .44 spl, .44 magnum, .45 ACP, .30-06, .30-30, and 7.7 Japanese.

[rpludwig]

Catshooter...long time PBII guy here, your tips in tweaking the press are great and address some of the inherint issues, albeit fairly minor...and added to those in my post/link #13 above, it's a fine press IMO.

Wondering if anyone has come up with a "blast shield" for the primer tube as are supplied on many of today's more modern presses. I prefer to prime on the press, but I've always been a bit nervous with 100 primers staring me in the face in an unprotected tube! I had thoughts of slipping a tube/pipe of some sort over the supplied priming tube but it won't clear the die plate as I recall....any thoughts on this?

Great forum!
Ron

[Catshooter]

Thanks for the kind words Ron.

RCBS agrees with you about the scary aspect of 100 primers. With their Rockchucker 4, the priming system has a blast tube that encloses the aluminum primer tube.

I have set off primers when seating them with both of my RCBS presses. Just the one that went off was a problem none of the ones in the tubes were affected.

I don't worry about it anymore. :)

Welcome to the forum.


Cat

[OuchHot!]

I have been intending to get a piece of (maybe 3/4") seamless hydraulic tubing to slide over the outside of the primer tube. Fresh out of roundtuits, so far.

[rpludwig]

I have been intending to get a piece of (maybe 3/4") seamless hydraulic tubing to slide over the outside of the primer tube. Fresh out of roundtuits, so far.

now we're talkin'!

my thoughts exactly, at a quick search I find some stainless steel tube (and other materials) here:
http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/stainless2.phtml?page=stainless pipe&LimAcc=%20&aident=

haven't mic'd the PBII aluminum tube, but if the correct size is found, I would think a full tube blast would go upwards rather than in the operators face, or may go downward into the press I suppose since there is no way to seal off the bottom....or would we just be creating additional shrapnel!!??

Then there is the issue of clearance above at the die plate...

Thoughts?

(again, I have loaded many 1000's of rounds on the PBII without incident, and I like the press (once tweaked), but it's always on my mind as I look at that aluminum tube while reloading!)

[CATTLEMAN]

I learned to reload on a RL550 but now use an ammomaster progressive. I wanted a taller press with the ability to convert to single stage for BMG size cartridges.

I prime my cases off the press, for me is is easier and lets me inspect the cases and I don't have to bother with the priming setup.

I have "upgraded" to the rcbs and / or hornady case activated linkages for the powder measures. They are GREAT! The parts are interchangeable and the hornady version was less expensive when I bought mine. As mentioned above the micro "upgrade" for the powder measure is great. I record the micro settings in my load book and it gets me really close to the correct weight the next time I set up for that load.

I am going to try the cap screw mod for the wire ejector as mine is a PITA.

[Melski]

Station 4= Hornady bullet feed die, converted for cast bullets and tube feed.



very interested in this modification. need pictures!

[Smokey]

I have 2 Piggyback 2 presses now but just bought a used Ammomaster. Been using the PB2's since 1991 and like them. Ammomaster set up was about the same as the PB2's, however, when putting the dies in to reload (RCBS 9mm Luger) i run out of die thread on the sizer and am very close to the same situation with the expander and seater dies. This doesn't seem right but I can see no errors in set up from the manual review. Issue: Putting the press ram all the way up and screw in the sizer die till it just touches the shell plate results in NO thread above the top plate and the lock nut is now useless. Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Smokey]

What is the "Cap screw mod"? Thanks.

[troyboy]

I use Lee dies and do not have any issue like you mention. You need to check your ram and linkage to be sure the full stroke is being obtained. Evidently something is not allowing full travel.

[barkerwc4362]

Does the Ammomaster come with the extender for the ram like a PB2? If so is it installed?

Bill

[Catshooter]

Smokey,

I'd check your linkages, something is amiss. I always have plenty of thread (with the locknut) for any die. Or is the ram or part of it hitting part of the bench?

No ram extender barker, FYI.

Welcome to the forum to the both of you.


Cat

[Ford SD]

Here is my fix for the RCBS Case Ejector (from a old post)


http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy89/Jhsfun/Rcbshomeimproved.jpg

Wire used need to be small enough to fit in hole with set screw 1/16"
and leg (that fits in hole is longer than RCBS one (7/8")
You only have to tighten set screw enough to stop up/ down movement (very light)
Just trial and error with a pair of vice grips (remove burrs)
the longer it is with a gentle curve the better
first one had only a single wire (like rcbs) but longer
but when using different cal would some times not work
I ended up with this version using the largest cal I load and getting no jams @ for the smaller cases popped out easy
In the picture it looks like it will hit the rivet on shell plate but sits above with lots of clearance so much that you can pop out the shell plate with out removing extractor/ejector

http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy89/Jhsfun/Rcbsfactoryeject.jpg

http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy89/Jhsfun/Rcbscomparison.jpg

A very light dab of grease under shell plate and shell plate bolt also helps but keep grease away from primer area (grease or use other lube where shell plate presses)on alum base

PS
I do not like the way primers get seated and no way to check got high primers
so single stage deprime
and use a hand primer to seat primers (and allow me to watch TV and hand primer you can work by feel)
changing primer setup is a pain on this press small-large and the one you want is never the one in it

two presses one small primer and one large is the way to go with several dies set up all ready to go

another fix the powder measure rocks a bit so added a pc of a pop can under uniflow adapter

I have recently added the Hornady Case-Activated-Powder-Drop to my RCBS Uniflow measure, and think it is a lot better system for dropping a powder charge

http://www.hornady.com/store/Case-Activated-Powder-Drop-1-Each/

I even neck size brass and neck expand and flair my 308 brass to get it ready for single stage reloading
two operations at once and the brass lands in the plastic tray as fast and you can load it and pull the handle

The bad point is that it is too short to reload 308 or any similar length case

[troyboy]

I like that case ejector you made.

[Smokey]

Thanks for the welcome Cat You and troyboy both suggested I check the linkage and bench interference. I've done that. The linkage is actuating the ram to full height as it is installed. When the ram is fully up, there is only about 5/8" to 3/4" of ram exposed at the bottom. The stroke goes past center a bit as the ram comes into full extension. Any chance you could measure the length of the linkage arms so I can see if mine are different? The press actuates smoothly and does not seem to be anything other than normal except for the closing height at the top of the stroke. First time I've used an Ammomaster so I've nothing to compare it against except for my PB2's. Thanks.

[cheese1566]

Distance on my AmmoMaster from the top of the bottom base to the bottom edge of the top where the dies are, is about 6 3/4 inches. There is a 3/4" gap between my shellplate and bottom of the plate. But I my RCBS dies are threaded only half way in...and they are 45acp.
136520
Not doubting your ram movement, but the toggle should hit the linkages that will be about vertical when fully extended.

136522

Can you post a pic? Lots of us are willing to happily help!

[Smokey]

Well, that is interesting. My clearance between the top of the press base and the bottom of the top plate is 7-3/8". The length of the three support rods is 7-38". My toggle hits the linkages when the they are almost vertical ... looks like your picture. I'll get some pictures and post them but I'm betting the issue is that the three support rods are too long. Either made by a previous owner or taken off a different press ... not sure what the .50 BMG set up uses but .... Email to RCBS with this information going out as soon as I sign off here. The distance between the top of my 9mm shell plate and the bottom of the top plate is 1-1/8". Distance of that measurement on my PB2 is 7/8". No wonder my dies are threading in so far. Thanks man.

[cheese1566]

Interesting, I thought the AmmoMaster progressives and the single stage AmmoMaster was the same, even the 50 bmg.
I quick call to them will get you set. Have patience though, the boys are in Nashville for the NRA show.

If they don't fix you up, it will be an easy fix to shorten and thread the three rods.

[1bluehorse]

RCBS did make an Ammo 1 and an Ammo 2....I had both and one was definitely taller than the other. I believe it was the Ammo 1....the only difference between the two (other than height and a bit wider toggle) was the Ammo 2 has a small groove around the bottom of the "legs".....I sold my Ammo 1 and still have two of the others.....great press, well, once that "pendulum of death" powder charge rod was changed out to the new linkage system....another thing I found out on my presses was in order for me to successfully reload 9mm using the Uniflow measure was to buy and use the RCBS 9mm powder thru expander in the powder measure instead of the pistol insert....didn't have enough adjustment....IMO these are the most versatile presses out there and the only thing I would consider changing mine out for would be (possibly) the new Pro Chucker.....depending on reviews of course....

[Catshooter]

FordSD,

That is a very cool ejector! Looks like a huge improvement over factory, I'm making me one for sure. Thanks.

When using the AmmoMaster for the BMG the top plate (the dies screw into it) is removed and an iron plate is installed. It has one large central hole threaded for the BMG dies. The press is used as a single station.

It does sound like your rods are homemade Smokey. RCBS will have the correct length ones for you and for no charge either.


Cat

[Smokey]

I've contacted RCBS about replacement rods. Also have a local guy that can do the machining. The advertisements for the 50BMG say that the press provides 1-12" more height to load the long cartridge. I thought there might be an AmmoMaster 1 and 2 as the parts list on the press I have specifies the -2 parts on the rods and a couple of other components. Waiting on RCBS now. Thanks for all the help guys. Anyone interested in a PB2 conversion unit? Once the AmmoMaster is up and running I'll be selling one of my PB2's.

[Smokey]

136699
136701
136702
136697

4 images of the press. Can't figure how to rotate them in the reply pane. Smokey

[JesterGrin_1]

I have to admit that I am intrigued that there might be a possibility to be able to send in one of these Piggy Back presses to RCBS and have the correct parts installed to enable one to load rifle cartridges?

[Smokey]

This isn't a Piggyback press. The Ammomaster can reload rifle cartridges as shipped. There is a progressive, 5 station model and a single station model. And, with the 50 BMG changeover parts you can even load 50 BMG in the single station model. The Piggyback 1, 2 and 3 were all limited to pistol cartridges above .25 ACP and rifle cartridges up to .223 Remington.

[troyboy]

The pillars are incorrect for the ram. RCBS will get this resolved.

[Smokey]

Cat, can you please look in your manual for the press and shoot me the part number of the 3 support rods? Thanks

[cheese1566]

Link to the RCBS parts book

http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/Parts_Book.pdf

[troyboy]

Lets discuss primer seating depth issues. I am having plenty if issues in this area and am open to suggestions. I am aware of the adjuster on the opposite side of station 2.

[IndifferentJester]

New to the forums and to reloading in general. I figured I'd add my two cents for helping people with the ejecting issue which I just fixed. I even tried fabricating what Ford SD did quite well, but it didn't work. I'm using a Piggyback 2 which I received from my dad, plus it's been sitting in a chest since the 80s.


Below you'll see the piece I removed, assume to be tension arms to hold the brass in the shell. The only thing holding them in is that small piece of plastic on the end.
137012

So what I did was loosen the tension this had on the shell by bending it outwards so it's not ridiculously tight against the shell. The following two pictures are what it looks like afterward. It may not seem to be noticeable but once it was a bit loose, the stock ejector worked perfectly. Another thing I did through trial and error was get it so that the tension bracket was actually touching the brass to keep it in place. ***Caution*** With the metal being very thin DO NOT bend/ death grip the metal to get it to bend, if you do you may put a crease in the metal, which will make it harder to get back. Be patient and slowly form it in various places to get the desired effect.
137013137014

[Catshooter]

Cheese beat me to it.


Cat

[Catshooter]

Well troyboy my first suggestion is to be more specific. Can't help what we don't know is going on.


Cat

[JesterGrin_1]

I would like to ask what might be a dumb question.

I have I think a Piggyback II of which I have never used one of these. And would like to try and set it up for .357 Magnum. Of which at this point I know I need a No.6 shell plate as I currently have a 16 for 9MM.

The question is what would be the best coarse of action to take to purchase the needed shell plate? Should I just send the whole assembled unit into RCBS and have them go over it or just purchase the shell plate and go from there?

And due to the responses here not to mention that I would rather prime before loading I am not to concerned about the primer set up on the Piggyback II currently.


Thank You. :)

And figured what the hey I would ask lol. If anyone has A RCBS Rock Chucker,Reloader Special 3 or a Reloader Special 5 press laying around collecting dust and would be willing to part with it as to enable me to give they Piggyback II a try it would be greatly appreciated?

[troyboy]

You just buy and install the shellpate from any of the usual sources. Back to the primer seating issue......... when loading I get some primers that do not seat deep enough.

[IndifferentJester]

Troy that could be two things off the top of my head. The easiest fix is to make sure you're pressing your lever fully on the up stroke. Can generally tell when the primer is going in to the resistance but keep going to ensure you bottom out and don't short stroke it..... ;-) Secondly, like you mentioned you're aware of the adjuster screw on the other end, turn that clockwise so it screws into the press more, by doing this the trey/shell plate will go lower, which means the primer should go further. Make small adjustments till you get the right measurement, then lock the screw into place with the nut. Generally you want the primer to be in 0.004" below flush.

Now when you say some, do you mean some are actually able to fit and sometimes it doesn't? If that's the case I'd go back to case prepping. After you remove the old primer there might be some residue left over due to various reasons. Try using a pocket primer cleaner to get any unwanted residue out. Hope that helps.

[IndifferentJester]

JesterGrin,

http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/instructions/PiggyBack_II_Conversion_Unit_Instructions.pdf

Pg 24 and 25.

Also, shell plate for example your 357 Mag

http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Station-Shell-Plates/731714.uts

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/756635/rcbs-piggyback-ammomaster-pro2000-progressive-press-shellplate-6-38-s-and-w-38-special-357-magnum?cm_vc=ProductFinding


http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-No-6-Station-Shell-Plate/dp/B000GU8WUO/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1429306818&sr=1-2&keywords=rcbs+%236

[JesterGrin_1]

JesterGrin,

http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/instructions/PiggyBack_II_Conversion_Unit_Instructions.pdf

Pg 24 and 25.

Also, shell plate for example your 357 Mag

http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Station-Shell-Plates/731714.uts

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/756635/rcbs-piggyback-ammomaster-pro2000-progressive-press-shellplate-6-38-s-and-w-38-special-357-magnum?cm_vc=ProductFinding


http://www.amazon.com/RCBS-No-6-Station-Shell-Plate/dp/B000GU8WUO/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1429306818&sr=1-2&keywords=rcbs+%236

Thank You. I placed an order with Amazon as I think it has the best deal on the shell plate. Mainly due to the shipping charges of the other two?

[Catshooter]

Troy,

The adjustment bolt should be what is stopping the downward movement of the press. That of course is how you set the primer seating depth. I'd screw that sucker down until I knew it was out of the way and the rod that actually does the primer seating is now in control of where the press stops.

Can you now get the seating depth you want? If not, then something else is stopping the downward movement. Find it and fix it.

Then you can get the adjustment bolt back into doing it's job.

Hope this helps, let us know if not.


Cat

[troyboy]

I'll try screwing the adjuster all the way down as suggested. Then coming back out until seating depth is consistent. The only brass prep I do for auto pistol brass is to tumble then sort by headstamp.

[Smokey]

Thanks Cheese1566, however, the parts book does not include dimensional date. RCBS is arguing with me on support rod length and I hope it is resolved soon.

[Smokey]

OK man. I think the 88722 support rods are what is needed and that is what shows on both the AmmoMaster Auto 1 and 2. My manual shows 7-88722 parts which I think are incorrect. THere is also a longer toggle specified for the single stage press. RCBS tech svc wants to argue about nits and was not helpful even after I sent pictures. The pres shut height of 3/4" to 7/8" is the issue and the tech guy completely missed that point. Sent email back again last night. Have a good weekend.

[1bluehorse]

Well, that is interesting. My clearance between the top of the press base and the bottom of the top plate is 7-3/8". The length of the three support rods is 7-38". My toggle hits the linkages when the they are almost vertical ... looks like your picture. I'll get some pictures and post them but I'm betting the issue is that the three support rods are too long. Either made by a previous owner or taken off a different press ... not sure what the .50 BMG set up uses but .... Email to RCBS with this information going out as soon as I sign off here. The distance between the top of my 9mm shell plate and the bottom of the top plate is 1-1/8". Distance of that measurement on my PB2 is 7/8". No wonder my dies are threading in so far. Thanks man.


Just measured the two I now have and the total distance between top and bottom plates is 6-13/16 inches, at the top of the stroke I have 1/2in between top of shell plate and bottom of die plate.....The Ammo 1 I sold was just about an inch taller and had a larger toggle. I had the Ammo 1 setup as a single stage but did have all the progressive parts to go with it AND had used it as such also.....probably this is of little help to you but thought I would pass this along to you....if needed I could pull the top plate, pull one of the "legs" and measure that for you.....

[Smokey]

Thanks 1bluehorse. That is the data I was looking for. RCBS seems to be slow on the uptake with this. My support rods are 7-3/8" flat to flat leaving me with 1-1/8" between the top of the shellplate and the bottom of the top plate. What is the part number of the support rods in your manual for the -2 if you could look please. Thanks...........

[1bluehorse]

Thanks 1bluehorse. That is the data I was looking for. RCBS seems to be slow on the uptake with this. My support rods are 7-3/8" flat to flat leaving me with 1-1/8" between the top of the shellplate and the bottom of the top plate. What is the part number of the support rods in your manual for the -2 if you could look please. Thanks...........



88720............

[Smokey]

Thanks. My manual shows 7-88691 which I'm thinking is for the AM-1. My manual title is "Ammomaster-Auto Progressive Reloading Press". It would be really help if RCBS had part numbers on their castings. Can't tell which part the toggle block is on this press. Probably the short one. Thanks again for your help.

[Smokey]

The RCBS Tech guy was happy to get the 88720 part number ... it's no longer on the parts catalog I checked nor is it on the AmmoMaster 1 ot 2 parts list. Anyway, parts are on the way. The long toggle block does work if the support rods won't. Borrowed a long block from a friend here in town that uses the single station press. That put the shell plate up to within 3/4" of the top plate and the dies all had at least 1/2" to 5/16" of thread showing above the top plate. Thanks to you guys for all the help getting this sorted out.

[Smokey]

RCBS comes thru again. Replacement support rods arrived late last week. Fit fine. Press closes up like it is supposed to.

[JesterGrin_1]

Question: Piggyback II Acro Ben for catching loaded ammo is this a special RCBS item or can I just use a standard Acro Ben?

I have a Lee Classic Cast Single Stage press on the way for the Piggyback II.

I now have the Hornady case activated powder drop linkage for my RCBS Uniflow II and the needed shell plates for .38Sp/.357 Mag and .223 Remington.

I wished to ask for giggles if one can load .358 Winchester on the Piggyback II?

The money mistake I made was I thought all RCBS Uniflows came with a large metering drum so I ordered a RCBS Small metering drum for my RCBS Uniflow II. Guess what yep when I took it apart to replace the drum it already had a small metering drum lol. But I guess that is okay as I had a much older RCBS Uniflow that had the large metering drum so I changed it out. Besides the old Uniflows look better :).

[cheese1566]

Acrobins will fit.
So will the cheaper versions at Menards.

[JesterGrin_1]

Acrobins will fit.
So will the cheaper versions at Menards.

Thank You for the reply.


But I am in South TEXAS and have never seen a Menards. Heck the first time I ever heard of them was on this very site lol.

[Catshooter]

Nope, no 358s on a PB. I load 45-70s progressively on my Ammomaster though . . . :)


Cat

[JesterGrin_1]

Nope, no 358s on a PB. I load 45-70s progressively on my Ammomaster though . . . :)


Cat

Well that solves that lol. But that is ok as my Lee Classic Cast Turret press does just fine for the larger cartridges. So I will stick with the .357 Magnum and .223 Remington. :)

I was a little ahead of myself lol. I have never loaded a single round of .223 Remington ammunition. But plan to with the RCBS Piggyback II since it is for an AR and we all know how ammo goes with the AR lol. :)

And to be sure when I get started to load .223 Remington I will ask more than a few questions lol. But right now with the RCBS Uniflow with the small metering drum and Hornady case activated powder drop I plan to use either H-322 or Ramshot TAC?

[JesterGrin_1]

Piggyback II Mounting Question.

My press does not have a locating pin hole for the Piggyback II. Should I index the Piggyback II where I want it and drill the press for the locating pin or is it needed? Thank You.



(Just an FYI. I did call RCBS about this and was informed sorry you can not use a current production RCBS Press as it will not work. You will need to find an old RCBS Press to mount the RCBS Piggyback. )

[The Frogge]

Any press that will take Hornady quick change bushings will work with a Piggyback unit. The indexing pin is simply supposed to slot into the primer feed slot on the old Rockchuckers. If you don't have the slot just pull the pin out and remember to tighten the press bushing down tight.
I have a PB1 on a modified Lyman Crusher, a PB in parts and just finished converting an Ammomaster 2 to the auto version. Tehy have quirks but nothing a little tinkering can't smooth out.