Gun stock re-finishing???

[AlaskanGuy]

Hi guys...

I am in the process of re-doing my sons christmas present... Picked up a beat up remmington 788 in 308... Gun was pretty beat up though, but affordable... Shoots real straight... Works well with cast... Barrel was rusty in spots so took it off and took down all the rust... Gunna use some epoxy VHT flat black on it it think... The stock was very dinged up and the finish was icky.. Got it all sanded off and finish sanded it so it is nice and purty, with a nice wood grain...

Question is, i got some linseed oil, or some stain, but i was thinking about using the linseed oil... I am not familiar with it, but know that folks use it for furniture and such.. My son is gunna be just thrilled no matter how looks, but i want it to look decent.... Any suggestions on the linseed oil and its suitability for a stock????

Here are some pics ...

9008790088
9008990090

[CastingFool]

Years ago, I used a product called Linspeed. Apparently, it's still available. Check out their site. www.lin-speed.com I liked the stuff. There is also another product, which is more like a paint. I think it's called Dynocoat. Comes in spray cans, so you could come up with your own camo pattern.

[Outpost75]

I have been using a product from Brownell's called Fairtrimmer's military finish, which is perfect for matching the original color on 03 Springfield or M1 Garard stocks or pre-64 Winchesters. It works on either walnut or hardwood stocks. Oil finish and stain combined. Have done over a dozen stocks with it and one honky tonk piano!

[AlaskanGuy]

Well, i have a yellow can filled with boiled linseed oil, made from flax... About the size of an old metal 1 lb can of 700x... Says i need to dillute with solvent 50/50 and go with the grain and a soft cloth.. Says it is weather resistant as well....

[TES]

when I did mine...(I do wood floors for a living)....I used 2 coats 50/50 poly and thinner (spit coat) sanded those down between coats with 500 grit then tacked with a bees wax tack cloth and finally rubbed on butchers wax. Between wax coats use a hair dryer to soften the wax rub it again and do about 8-10 coats.

I have nice looking guns!

[Dryball]

Linseed oil is all I use for refinishing stocks. Thin the first two coats, hand-rub about 10 to 15 coats of linseed on (buff between each coat with oooo steel wool) and when the pores are filled in do one or two more coats. After that get a stiff piece of felt and put enough linseed oil on it to make it damp but not dripping. Put some rottenstone on that until it just about won't soak up any more and start rubbing the entire stock. This final step smooths up and evens the finish and sets a nice stock apart from a mediocre one.

[seaboltm]

If I were concerned about waterproofing and not beauty I would use polyurethane. If I could find it I would us a spar matte (satin) finish. If you like you could stain it first and then shoot the poly later.

[AlaskanGuy]

After reading through the many threads, I am thinking that it might be better to use something else like tru oil or something like that.... I have to have this finished by christmas?? Any other suggestions.... Remember that i live very remote.... I should have thought about this part and done more research about the linseed oil, cuz i didnt realize that it could take weeks and continued maintenance.... The gun is for my 17 year old son, and he wont give a rat about how it looks, and he will prolly ding it up... But i just want it to look nice when he gets it....

Ag

[John Allen]

I personally prefer linseed oil. I thin it down and put on about 3 coats with a good drying between each coat.

[MBTcustom]

Linseed oil and turpentine has got to be one of the oldest gunstock finishes.
Nearly all the old war rifles you see are finished with linseed oil. The only problem is the fact that it darkens horribly over time. You see all those old Mausers that the wood is almost black on? That's linseed oil.
Pure tung oil is a much better choice because it wont go black on you.
Personally, I love Trueoil gunstock finish. It produces a tough semi-gloss finish that seals the wood so much better than any oil. This keeps your stock from swelling up when hunting in the snow or rain.

[R.Ph. 380]

After reading through the many threads, I am thinking that it might be better to use something else like tru oil or something like that.... I have to have this finished by christmas?? Any other suggestions.... Remember that i live very remote.... I should have thought about this part and done more research about the linseed oil, cuz i didnt realize that it could take weeks and continued maintenance.... The gun is for my 17 year old son, and he wont give a rat about how it looks, and he will prolly ding it up... But i just want it to look nice when he gets it....

Ag

Try going on Rimfire Central and trying the "Woodstock" method. I finished a M1 Carbine stock in 4 days with 15 coats of Tru-Oil using this method: http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331108

The Original Armour All polymerizes the Tru-Oil to where you can actually feel it go slick when it hardens up. You can finish putting one coat on and start over putting the next. Amazing.

Bill

[flounderman]

I have used some of the commercial finishes, linseed oil, and whatever else I thought I would try. Linseed is the last thing I would use. It isn't waterproof and it doesn't protect the stock. I have used a spray on spar-polyurethane for years now. I use the gloss because I think it evens out better. After the initial coat or two, I sand it smooth and then I use a small amount and hand rub it. The stuff is hard to cut with sandpaper after it cures and it is waterproof. When you do the stock, do the inside, outside and under the buttplate. Moisture can migrate from the uncoated areas. I think the stock is birch. You can get some contrast by staining and wiping it off before you apply finish. If the stain is oily it acts as a release on the finish. I don't use stain. I would use clear spar-urethane, gloss in a spray can and apply it lightly in layers. once the pores are filled and the finish looks smooth and it has dried, apply a small spot and hand rub it out. You're results might not be the same as mine because I've been doing this for close to 60 years but just don't try to do it all at one time. Build up thin layers and it isn't hard to get a good, durable finish.

[seaboltm]

I have used some of the commercial finishes, linseed oil, and whatever else I thought I would try. Linseed is the last thing I would use. It isn't waterproof and it doesn't protect the stock. I have used a spray on spar-polyurethane for years now. I use the gloss because I think it evens out better. After the initial coat or two, I sand it smooth and then I use a small amount and hand rub it. The stuff is hard to cut with sandpaper after it cures and it is waterproof. When you do the stock, do the inside, outside and under the buttplate. Moisture can migrate from the uncoated areas. I think the stock is birch. You can get some contrast by staining and wiping it off before you apply finish. If the stain is oily it acts as a release on the finish. I don't use stain. I would use clear spar-urethane, gloss in a spray can and apply it lightly in layers. once the pores are filled and the finish looks smooth and it has dried, apply a small spot and hand rub it out. You're results might not be the same as mine because I've been doing this for close to 60 years but just don't try to do it all at one time. Build up thin layers and it isn't hard to get a good, durable finish.

Make sure you get the poly inside the stock and under the butt plate as mentioned. That is where water will be absorbed as that is the natural vascular system of the wood, up the grain. In your application, poly is the only way to go. Even when I oil finish, I always use a q-tip to apply poly inside the action and under the recoil pad. All of the "invisible" areas once the gun gets assembled gets polyurethane.

[AlaskanGuy]

Wow.... Some great ideas.... Thanks guys....

I believe that the stock is pine of some sort... It is very soft wood, and not like any birch i have ever split.... And very light colored...

I like the link that from rimfire forum..... I need to look after reading this and see what i have.... And what i am gunna need .....

[AlaskanGuy]

Holy c.r.a.p batman.... I just went through the 100's of posts at the rimfire site about using Truoil and Armor all.... I am gunna give this a try... It seems to really turn out awesome.... I am thinking about leaving the wood its natural color.....

[AlaskanGuy]

Ok, i started work on the stock and other components of the gun yesterday.... Also, i tried the "woodstock" method of refinishing the rifle stock that i researched thanks to somebody smarter then i am that posted the link in this thread... The basic concept is this... Spray the raw wood with Armor All spray, rub it all over wet and then start hand rubbing tru-oil until it gets hard, and then start with the armor all again and repeat... I put in about 12-13 coats of this today, and the stock started getting shinny, so i stopped there as i didn't want the stock of my sons christmas present with a real glossy finish... All in all, i liked it and vas very impressed with the finish, how it was applied, and the end result.... About every 3rd coat, i used 0000 steel wool to scuff the finish a bit as recommended, to get a good bonded finish... I took pics as it progressed, and will post them now....
Raw wood
90170
1st coat
90172

3rd coat
90174

Much later coat... Prolly 5th or 6th
90175

And now the gun put back together after last coat...90176

9017790178

Overall, just what i wanted.... I guess that if you keep going it will get real glossy... I did use the vht on the barrel after throughly cleaning and using steel wool on it... Finished with the steel wool 0000 and then started the Vht.... Was pleased with that as well.... Did a pretty good job on the pitting, and gave the gun a way better look....

There you go... The link for the process is in post number 11 as posted by R.Ph.380. Thank you for the post R.PH.380.

AG

[MBTcustom]

Workin it like a BOSS!
Good work. That armorall trick is a goodun. Sometimes I use it, and sometimes I mix the trueoil with lighter fluid, and sometimes I lay it on straight up. Just depends on the wood and the look I'm after.

The only thing I would have done different on yours was to stain it a darker color before starting, and then take it to a full gloss.
That said, what you did looks great, and professional, and you should be dang proud of your handiwork!

[AlaskanGuy]

Thanks tim.....

I was going for a non gloss finish for my sons christmas present.... The next one will be all shiney and glossy.... In your honor...he he.... I am starting to do the prep work on my next one tomorow morning... With my son being autistic, and a teenager, he is very clumsy with stuff.. Not on purpose.... He has motor skill issues, so whatever I do needs to be easily touched up with more tru-oil or fixing of the barrel with some steel wool and a new coat of vht...

Now on MY guns, i am not a clutz, and want that glossy multi-dimensional look.... I have a couple of 10-22's that are beat up pretty good.... Perfect thing to put some REAL refinishin work on... And if i screw it up, how bad could it be....lol

I really want to find some Miles Gilbert powdered Bone Black for the next project though.... Went to buy it at midway, but was gunna cost me $42.43 total for something that costs less then 10 bucks.... I refuse to do it... Soooooo if somebody has some that they could part with, or has something like it that i should be looking for outside of midway, i would appreciate it....

AG

[kbstenberg]

Alaskan Guy
Your post came when I needed it. I have a Ruger 77 that needs refinishing before I list it for sale. How did you prep the stock for finish? Sand the old finish? Chemical removal?
If you don't want to extend the thread just PM me. Kevin

[johnson1942]

it is probably to late for the gun you posted about but ill put in what i know and it may help for the next. most finishes are one form of plastic, even true oil. it is the various and amounts of hardners in the finish that makes them different. so i wont comment on what you put on the stock as most will make a good finish. what i like to do is bring out the grain and the hidden grain. the answer to that is leather dye. the kind of leather dye that is thin and is at a shoe repair shop or saddle shop. i like medium brown with one or two drops of red mixed in. that gives a very nice english brown finish. when you have sanded the stock smooth soak the stock completely with the leather dye. let it dry completely and repeat a couple of times. it with look a lot darker then it turns out when your done. after that wet sand lightly with water and about 400 grit wet sanding paper, with the grain only. that helps get the dye into the wood. then wash really good with water. let air dry really well. now take the surface finish you chose and thin it down to less than 50/50. keep soaking that and drying into the wood untill the wood is filled up. then sand lightly with 400 grit (wet) untill smooth. now carefully put on thin coats as you want. wet sand rough spots lightly with 2000 grit. now mix pumice and rubbing oil and rub out. redue areas that may need it. now mix rotten red stone with rubbing oil and rub out some more. now for the final rub brownells 5f rubbing compound, in a bottle already mixed. now you have a stock you can look down into and better than any thing you could dream off. you could still use the brownells 5f compound to rub out your finish to a much smoother higher transparent finish. i put the very liquid super glue rubbed into the stock on the end where the butt plate goes. sand smooth when filled and dry. this seals the stock from sucking water like a straw. if you have a highly figured wood and really want it to display the grain use some chromiun trioxide also beside leather dye. it turn black but that washes off and the grain wont be black,as thats just the surface reaction. dont be afraid of refinishing the beech wood stocks used on all over the counter guns today. the factory finishes are very drab and poor. beech has a lot of figure and some curl. it is very tough and finished right is very nice to look at. if you want to see the results of what i wrote about go to pineridgeblackpowder.com. you can see a partial picture of a stock i built my self for a long distance muzzle loader i built. i come from a family of french custom furniture builders that built furniture for century's. wood is in my blood. je ne suis pa rein sans Dieu et son fils.

[AlaskanGuy]

Wow... Nice... Thanks johnson....

[AlaskanGuy]

Lots of great info above..... Here are the directions for what I did.....

Wood stock finish

Step One; Preparation
Strip old stock, use a wet cloth over dents and use the tip of a steam iron, which swells the area around the dent and lifts out just about all except the deepest. Be aware that any sharp edged dents will probably require deeper sanding below the dent and then blend into the surrounding area. I use 220 grit sandpaper (always with the grain), primarily to avoid leaving deeper sanding marks and scratches. I constantly will backlight the stock turning it to view along the wood for any imperfections. When the desired smoothed finish shape is there, I go to 400 grit, then 800 grit.

Now de-whisker. With a wet cloth wipe down the entire stock and let dry. This raises small fibers or "splinters" which I now lightly sand off with 800 grit. Now lightly rub the stock down with 0000x steel wool.

Step Two; GO NO FURTHER!
This is important; check your work, use the light source. It is what it is, don't scrimp on your quality now and be satisfied with your prep results. The next part is the easiest.

Step Three; The Magic Elixir
Here's what you've waited for..,the formula!

I use Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil and ArmorAll. Other brands of tire shine will also work, but I usually have enough ArmorAll around. I do not use grain filler or stain unless the stock really begs for it.

Spray on a coat of ArmorAll, rub it over the entire stock and wipe off the excess. Now rub a couple of fingers worth of Tru-Oil over the ArmorAll in all directions, but initially across the grain to fill the pores. (Doing sections at a time intially is best because you can see where you've been.) Once some coats have been built up, you can do one full side of the stock at a time. Rub briskly with palm and finger tips until the surface loses its tack and feels like glass. This may take 5-10 minutes but subsequent coats will go even faster. The first coats will appear dull, but subsequent coats will start to gloss up .
Every single coat uses ArmorAll and TruOil ..

As I continue once the sheen has been built up, I often lightly buff with 0000x steel wool. This gives a bit of bite for additional coats.

I can put two or three dozen coats on in a day and typically finish a stock in the same day and use it immediately. When I'm satisfied with the final coats I will often put a good furniture polish on a small piece of 0000x steel wool and gently rub it on in the direction of the grain, buff it off and add pure wax and buff again.

For a flatter sheen, the last step is a light 0000x steel wool buff without wax, your choice.

Why does this work?
I believe that there is a chemical reaction or catalyst occuring between the ArmorAll and the Tru-Oil that is much the same as a two-part epoxy that strengthens, hardens and gives such a rapid working/drying time. Don't panic; the process starts working only when you start rubbing the mix together and in.

Good luck...

AG

[johnson1942]

in each piece of wood is something beautiful. with the right method a rather plain piece of hardwood can have hidden beauty. cherry is the most stable of all woods but it is rather plain.dont over look figured ash. if you really want a blast of beauty punch in quilted west coast maple. if you can find birds eye maple it is very hard and beautiful. have fun, build a stock your self.

[gnoahhh]

What's done is done. Armorall would be one of the last things I would apply to wood, in any form. The silicone in it will be there forever, and will foil any attempts at future refinishing. Just because it is ballyhoo'ed on an internet forum doesn't make it good!

Oil finishes are beautiful, and are the cat's meow on indoor furniture, but do virtually nothing to impede the fenestration of water molecules into stock wood. A barrier finish (spar varnish, polyurethane, epoxy, etc.) is the only thing that will help- and they aren't 100% waterproof either. The OP's living in Alaska would prompt me to absolutely use a barrier finish, if it were me. I have used nothing but spar varnish for years, and if rubbed out properly can fool the casual observer into thinking it's an 'oil finish'.

Sure, governments have used cheap oil finishes on gun stocks since forever. Not because they are the best finish for rugged outdoor use, but because they are cheap and easily applied- no small consideration when faced with doing thousands at a time. Plus, what does the army care if a gunstock craps out? They just stick a new one on and send the gun on its way.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

An article in an old book featuring articles from Field and Stream magazines advocated "3 drops of linseed oil and rub for 3 weeks". Sounds like it might be worth a try if you have the determination and the patience. LLS

[Beekeeper]

My Grandfather built and restored antique furniture.
He used linsead oil as a first coat to bring out the grain and then used a mixture of linsead oil and shellac.
I have used this finish all the years I have been making my own stocks.
I Have used them in all kinds of weather with no degradation.

The process is simple and even I can do it.
(1) coat the wood with a float your boat coat of linsead oil and let it set overnoght.
(2) wipe off any remaining oil.
(3) mix oil and shellac 50/50 and start coating wood and do sucessive coats until pores are sealed.
It is a put on 4coats and take off 3 coats using a 0000 steel or bronze wool.
I like the bronze wool and think I get a better finish using it . The steel wool is OK for a dark stock but the bronze wool is best on a light stock.
(4) gradually reduce the amount of oil until you have a 80% shellac 20% oil mix and put finishing coats on wood.
(5) the more coats you put on the more shine you get.

For me to do a stock takes about a week and there are about 40 coats involved.
The nice thing about this finish is the ease at which it can be repaired.
Just add a couple of coats of the shellac mixture.
I have found the finish immune to even "Ed Red"
Using amber shellac will give a finish that will darken with age and a white shellac altho it darkens will not darken as much as an amber shellac will

I have a gun stock I did 50+ years ago and it still looks good.

beekeeper