Die over torqued help

[carbine86]

I have a die that is stuck in the lee pro turret head. Any tips or tricks to get it out?

[CastingFool]

Have you tried Aero Kroil? Maybe some heat?

[carbine86]

No i havent tried either of those the hardest part is holding on to the thing. I will try some heat on it today.

[dragonrider]

Apply heat only to the turret.

[IllinoisCoyoteHunter]

What dragon rider said. I have seen too many people apply the heat to the wrong part LOL!

[carbine86]

Yup that what i did im just abandoning it and just ordering a new turret oh well. Thanks for all the help.

[cheese1566]

stupid question....is the lock nut loose and the die body is stuck?

[carbine86]

No both pieces are torqued down and wont budge

[cheese1566]

Ah!
If you get a wrench on the nut itself , it should all go then...hopefully.

I have the same trouble when I tighten the lock ring down when I have a piece of brass all the way in to be sized.

[nhrifle]

Old mechanic's trick...stand on the turret to hold it firmly. Put a wrench on the lock nut and give it a good wallop with a hammer.

[1hole]

There is no point in using a wrench to secure a die.

[carbine86]

I will have to give that one a try.

[gmsharps]

Just a question on how it happened. If you were adjusting the dies and tightened the lock ring at that point it will freeze. You make your adjustments and hold the lock ring and die body and back it off just a bit and then tighten the lock ring and you can then screw it back down and it will not normally freeze. Just a thought

gmsharps

[carbine86]

I recieved the setup from someone and it came stuck

Just a question on how it happened. If you were adjusting the dies and tightened the lock ring at that point it will freeze. You make your adjustments and hold the lock ring and die body and back it off just a bit and then tighten the lock ring and you can then screw it back down and it will not normally freeze. Just a thought

gmsharps

[gmsharps]

I'm assuming you loosened the lock screw on the lock nut and tried to loosen the lock nut. If you have then I'm out of suggestions andthe previous guys ideas may be worth a try

gmsharps

[carbine86]

I'm assuming you loosened the lock screw on the lock nut and tried to loosen the lock nut. If you have then I'm out of suggestions andthe previous guys ideas may be worth a try

gmsharps
Yup tried that already after i put my son down for his nap im going to give the hammer trick a try.

[Adam10mm]

Put a towel around the turret and place it in a vise the skinny way. Hold the vise closed with one hand on the lever and use a wrench or channel lock pliers to loosen the nut. If you don't hold the vise shut it may slip. The towel protects the turret from marring.

[gmsharps]

Wow soneone really bubbed that one. Hopefully you will get it lose without any damage to the press.

gmsharps

[carbine86]

Well the turret head lifts out so if i cant get it out ill spend the 10 bucks for a new head.

[Dale in Louisiana]

A vise and an eighteen inch pipe wrench comes to mind...

dale in Louisiana

[mdi]

Stick a die in the opposite hole for leverage. Remove/loosen the lock nut and then use a wrench of the appropriate size on the flats near the top of the die. Kroil, or even some ATF will help too...

[country gent]

WHat lock ring/die is it if you know or can tell. The turret head in a vise between 2 pieces of rubber or blocks of wood ( soft jws) tightened good and tight. A box end wrench or cresent wrench that fits the lock nut. Remeber right tight left loose. Get the handle of the wrench straight up and apply pressure to it, you may have to bump it with a hand or hammer. You dont say what got it in this shape. Sometimes aluminum corrodes leaving a white residue that locks prts same as rust or over tightening. Getting it apart you may find the threads are weakened from either but should still be useable.
If all else fails with a dremel tool cut the lock ring in half and remove it that should free the die in the turrets threads. A ring of modelling clay can be formed around the die lock ring about 1/2"- 3/4" high allowing Kroil to be used to soak into the joint.
Are you sure someone at some point didnt use locktite on this die?
Go slow and easy look and think things thru. Use patience. Pipe wrenches will work but also marr surfaces. Channel locks are also notorious for marring surfaces. A box end wrench is the best choice and cutting the bottom edge down with a file to do away with the lead chamfer will give as much engagement as possible.

[oscarflytyer]

Totally diff approach. Put it in the freezer! Hopefully will shrink both surfaces just enough to let them break free. I have used this technique before when nothing else, including heat, would work.

[carbine86]

WHat lock ring/die is it if you know or can tell. The turret head in a vise between 2 pieces of rubber or blocks of wood ( soft jws) tightened good and tight. A box end wrench or cresent wrench that fits the lock nut. Remeber right tight left loose. Get the handle of the wrench straight up and apply pressure to it, you may have to bump it with a hand or hammer. You dont say what got it in this shape. Sometimes aluminum corrodes leaving a white residue that locks prts same as rust or over tightening. Getting it apart you may find the threads are weakened from either but should still be useable.
If all else fails with a dremel tool cut the lock ring in half and remove it that should free the die in the turrets threads. A ring of modelling clay can be formed around the die lock ring about 1/2"- 3/4" high allowing Kroil to be used to soak into the joint.
Are you sure someone at some point didnt use locktite on this die?
Go slow and easy look and think things thru. Use patience. Pipe wrenches will work but also marr surfaces. Channel locks are also notorious for marring surfaces. A box end wrench is the best choice and cutting the bottom edge down with a file to do away with the lead chamfer will give as much engagement as possible.

The lock ring is the type with a brass set screw and the die is an older rcbs 223rem seating die with no flats.

[rockshooter]

I'd split the lockring as far as possible with a die grinder and finish the split with a chisel- should be fairly easy.
Loren

[2400]

Totally diff approach. Put it in the freezer! Hopefully will shrink both surfaces just enough to let them break free. I have used this technique before when nothing else, including heat, would work.

I've had good luck doing this too.

[3006guns]

A vise and an eighteen inch pipe wrench comes to mind...

dale in Louisiana

Uh.......Dale.........have I ever purchased any reloading equipment from you in the past? :)

[1hole]

Okay, with the turret head out of the press, remove the lock rings from two other dies and screw them into the head. Stick a piece of 1x4 between the two dies and let that serve as a handle for the head, then use a wrench on the stuck lock ring.

[imashooter2]

What are you using for tools? There is no way a "stuck" die is staying in one of those junk pot metal tool heads with a real wrench twisting it. It would pull the threads right out of it.

[Bent Ramrod]

Harbor Freight sells a small size strap wrench which I keep on the shelf over the reloading bench for just such contingencies. Grip the lock ring with it. You may need to hold the turet in the vise.

You can use channel locks but they will mar the lock ring.

[Char-Gar]

A vise and an eighteen inch pipe wrench comes to mind...

dale in Louisiana

Yep, I have jammed a die in a press a time or two and a pipe wrench has done the trick removing it every time.

[Certaindeaf]

It sounds like he's having trouble holding the turret head stationary while trying to remove the die.
Since the turret head has two or three vacant holes, stick two dowels (probably about 18" long) into two holes parallel to each other. Put it on the ground with the dowels perpendicular to you and put another dowel (maybe 24") through the two dowels and stand on that dowel. Now apply twisting force to the die with the tool of your choice.

[1hole]

"....those junk pot metal tool heads ...."

Lee's turret head is a high grade alum alloy die casting. Either you don't know what high grade aluminum alloy castings are or I don't know what "pot metal" is.

My cast alum alloys are used for very well made handgun and shotgun frames; Black Rifle frames; outboard motors and propellers; auto/truck pistons and connecting rods and a lot of motor blocks; aircraft, missle and moon rocket parts; press bodies for Lee, Hornady, RCBS and Dillon, etc.

One of us has his head where the sun don't shine; maybe it's me?

[imashooter2]

"....those junk pot metal tool heads ...."

Lee's turret head is a high grade alum alloy die casting. Either you don't know what high grade aluminum alloy castings are or I don't know what "pot metal" is.

My cast alum alloys are used for very well made handgun and shotgun frames; Black Rifle frames; outboard motors and propellers; auto/truck pistons and connecting rods and a lot of motor blocks; aircraft, missle and moon rocket parts; press bodies for Lee, Hornady, RCBS and Dillon, etc.

One of us has his head where the sun don't shine; maybe it's me?

Smart arsed reply deleted.

I'll rephrase: There is no way a "stuck" die is staying in one of those aluminum die cast tool heads with a real wrench twisting it. It would pull the threads right out of it.

[starmac]

Impact wrench, will make short work of it.

[Idz]

The Lee pro turret head is only about $10. If its stuck as bad as you say the threads in the turret have probably been galled and the turret head is trashed.

[carbine86]

Thats what I ended up doing just ordered it a few hours ago. All the tricks posted here and I still couldnt get it to budge. On a side not if anyome wants it for what ever reason just pay for shipping and it is yours.

[Griff]

Just a question on how it happened. If you were adjusting the dies and tightened the lock ring at that point it will freeze. You make your adjustments and hold the lock ring and die body and back it off just a bit and then tighten the lock ring and you can then screw it back down and it will not normally freeze. Just a thought
gmsharps+1. That applies if you're using dies that have a set screw for the lock ring... i.e. RCBS, Redding or Lyman... Undo the set screw on the lock ring, then back off the lock ring before trying to take the die out of the turret.

[EDG]

high grade alum alloy die casting

Like military intelligence and happily married - something of a contradiction in terms.
Die castings are used specifically because they are cheap.
The alloy used has a lot of silicon to help it flow when molten.
The alloy is not very ductile compared to wrought alloys.
You will not find aluminum die castings used in any critical load bearing application in any aircraft, missle or rocket. Perhaps you have investment casting mixed up with die casting. Two completely different animals.



"....those junk pot metal tool heads ...."

Lee's turret head is a high grade alum alloy die casting. Either you don't know what high grade aluminum alloy castings are or I don't know what "pot metal" is.

My cast alum alloys are used for very well made handgun and shotgun frames; Black Rifle frames; outboard motors and propellers; auto/truck pistons and connecting rods and a lot of motor blocks; aircraft, missle and moon rocket parts; press bodies for Lee, Hornady, RCBS and Dillon, etc.

One of us has his head where the sun don't shine; maybe it's me?

[1hole]

"Die castings are used specifically because they are cheap.
The alloy used has a lot of silicon to help it flow when molten.
The alloy is not very ductile compared to wrought alloys."

Now use your great expertize to describe the strength and ductility of "pot metal" castings vs cast alum alloys.

[Harter66]

I'd like to have the parts.

Nice to see we can turn a help me get this die out thread into Lee vs everything else deck hosing event. If ya don'tlike his Chevy don't drive it.

[nhrifle]

If I had to guess on the construction of those turret heads, I would bet they were from extruded bar stock that is saw cut into slabs and machined. Their mold blocks are from aluminum bar stock extrusions, so why not these too?

[Harter66]

I believe they are advertised as being from aircraft billit AL. The standards for which were written in the 30's and stand today more or less unchanged. You can find those standards via FAA AN or MS , FAA/PMA is another search source. Those standards I believe are where the Numbering system comes from for the AL alloy IDs and tempering come from.

[geargnasher]

Thats what I ended up doing just ordered it a few hours ago. All the tricks posted here and I still couldnt get it to budge. On a side not if anyome wants it for what ever reason just pay for shipping and it is yours.

DOH! I missed Harter's post, never mind.

Gear

[geargnasher]

I'd like to have the parts.

Nice to see we can turn a help me get this die out thread into Lee vs everything else deck hosing event. If ya don'tlike his Chevy don't drive it.

Remove the brass set screw in the lock ring. remove guts of the die. Whack the top of the die a few times, HARD, with a lightweight plastic or plastic-faced mallet. A gunsmithing mallet, about 6-8 oz. is perfect. Place the turret head in a vise oriented same as in the press head with thin softwood blocks protecting the locking cogs. Honk on the die nut with a box-end wrench. If it doesn't come loose, apply pressure to the wrench with one hand and strike it in the same direction a light hammer like a claw hammer. If it still doesn't bust loose, get a sharp cold chisel and bite on the point of a flat with it, using a 16-oz hammer of some sort. If it still doesn't come loose, use an air chisel. After removing the lock ring, or at least getting it cracked loose so it isn't sucking up on the die threads anymore, see if the die comes out. If not, whack it again a few times on top with the light plastic mallet while cradling the turret plate in the palm of your other hand. If it's still stuck, put it back in the vise and get your pipe wrench and propane torch. Warm up the aluminum quickly and attack the die before it begins to absorb heat, hopefully the difference in expansion ratio between aluminum and steel and making the aluminum hot will crack it loose before you do too much damage to the die body.

Gear

[imashooter2]

I'd like to have the parts.

Nice to see we can turn a help me get this die out thread into Lee vs everything else deck hosing event. If ya don'tlike his Chevy don't drive it.

I have lots of Lee tools. Whether high quality moon rocket aluminum die casting or pot metal, the Lee tool heads are adequately designed for the task at hand.

That said, I still maintain that a man using decent tools would either remove the stuck die or the threads from the tool head in short order.

[carbine86]

Tool head and die have been sent out.

[Harter66]

I will try a couple of things , non-distrucively,before I forcably remove the die. In that event I will drop the head in a 36'' and the lock ring in 24'' pipe wrenches. At a minimum w/the potential for 300+ftlbs the lock ring should come loose.

There may be a reaction at work known as dissimilar metal electrolisis (sp) . The copper/brass causes an electric reaction w/the steel die and those are ok the copper oxidizes and turns green. Unless there is rust in the threads the steel and aluminum will be happy too . With the brass/copper,steel and aluminum all bunched up and a little carbon introduced to the steel and copper ,high humidity for a few days (or months) zip fused parts. My Dad is a Pipefitter, galvanized will fuse to brass seaside in 6 weeks w//w/o water inside . Black pipe and brass are happy as can be , the brass fittings if attached to black pipe and an aluminum regulator will bond to the aluminum. In aircraft ,excepting petroleum immersion , you won't find brass ,steel,and aluminum together. That's why this die is stuck most likely. A little lithium grease like Lubriplate will reduce the effects if retreated annualy or so.

[Harter66]

Thank you Carbine.

[David2011]

You can use channel locks but they will mar the lock ring.

A piece of thick leather will give the pliers' teeth something to grab and will grip the knurling on the die without damaging either. Vise grips might work even better. It worked for me.

David

[jeepvet]

I used to work with an old mechanic who always said "If won't go, don't force it. Get a bigger hammer!". Don't know if that helps, but it will make you feel better.

[JSAND]

Herter66, I hope you'll post back when you get it out, I'd like to know what it takes to free it. Thanks.

[zuke]

When I want to tighten my dies in my LEE turret i put all 3 dirs into the turret then use a screwdriver sideway's between 2 of them then tighten the free die where I want it to be. Remove screwdriver,rotate turret then tighten that die and the same procedure for the 3rd die.

[David2011]

I believe they are advertised as being from aircraft billit AL. The standards for which were written in the 30's and stand today more or less unchanged. You can find those standards via FAA AN or MS , FAA/PMA is another search source. Those standards I believe are where the Numbering system comes from for the AL alloy IDs and tempering come from.

Ah, the old "Aircraft Aluminum" trick. It's deceptive when they don't say what kinf of aircraft aluminum. Aircraft aluminum can be anything from very tough 7075-T6 to 1100 which is dead soft "pure" aluminum and mostly used for fuel tanks.

[MaryB]

If you want to recover the die cut through the head from the other side until right before the die. Get a chisel in there and split it

[Harter66]

Actually it goes all the way from T1 to T81 in alloys and clad AL T81 is ok working flat panals w/round headed rivets. I've seen it crack w/3/32nd flush rivet dimple in .025 2024, I think ,and don't even try to form or bend it.

I will check back in w/a final solution. Any residue oils have had another week to creep,it'll be banged around in the mail,its been heated chilled etc. It may just turn out.........that's how it goes when the Mech or Tech show up ,the stickies come free,the knock goes away,etc,etc.......

[bhn22]

He said RCBS dies. The older ones have a little brass piece that goes between the lock screw and the die threads to protect the dies. You're supposed to loosen the setscrew, then tap on it to get the brass piece to let go of the threads.

[Harter66]

The head and die arrived.

After carefull consideration I grabbed a 24'' Ridgid pipe wrench and padded the jaws w/flashing lead sheet strips and placed the notches on the Lee head flat on the jaws w/ the wrench tight. Then I put my 15'' Cresent (a real 1 not a clone the genuine artical is much tighter) on and to my suprise it came loose w/perhaps 30 ftlbs.

I will restate that I believe the threat of the mechanic, heat, cold shock,and oils combined w/the transit time allowed this to really just unscrew. The 30# on the 15'' wrench was probably closer to 45-50# on the nut . There did not seem to be any damage to the die,lock ring,or tool head. There wasn't any corrosion beyond the ''norm'' of age. This head was not a billet head but in fact cast .

[44Vaquero]

Congratulations Harter66! I have been waiting for this thread to become undone, so to speak!:coffeecom

[geargnasher]

Figured all it took was a little threatening!

Gear

[varmint243]

Thats what I ended up doing just ordered it a few hours ago. All the tricks posted here and I still couldnt get it to budge. On a side not if anyome wants it for what ever reason just pay for shipping and it is yours.

If the steel and aluminum decided to attack each other they may actually be fused.
I have no Lee turret press but I am curious to see if I can get them apart without damage.
How beat up did things get to this point ?