Help with pistol for IDPA

[Houndog]

Several of my friends are trying to get me to start shooting IDPA matches. My trouble is I don't own a striker fired pistol at this time without a safety, nor do I have a pistol setup totally for a left handed shooter. Since this is a timed match, in my mind shooting a pistol even partially setup right handed could cost you seconds. If any of youall playing this game that happen to be left handed, any and all help would be appreciated.

I've already figured out a 9mm stoked by my favorite 124gr lead load more than makes minimum power factor for the factory classes. As far as the pistol goes, I'm leaning toward a Glock 17 or a full sized M&P. The trouble is I'm not overly fond of ANY pistol that's also dishwasher safe for long term use! What say you?

Thanks in advance,
Houndog

[imashooter2]

Why don't you shoot what you have to find out if you enjoy the game? After you play and watch for a while you'll see what wins and be able to form solid opinions of your own on what to buy.

[dragon813gt]

Most of the poly guns w/ no safeties have ambi mag releases so I don't understand the left hand thing? Or maybe it's just the pistols I own that are this way. Only you can decide which pistol is right for you. There are plenty of all metal 9s to choose from.

[pal82]

I'm not a lefty, but I play the IDPA and USPSA games. I shoot a 1911 in the CDP class. If you have a 1911, (and who doesn't) an ambidextrous safety is easy to install. Most of the guys at my club shoot Glock 17's in SSP. I think the CZ75 decocker might be cool for ESP.

Thinks to consider:
1. Mag release button. Can you hit the button without changing your grip. Shifting grip costs time.
2. Mag well opening. The wider, the better. Your changing mags fast. Got to be able to slap it in.
3. Trigger pull. The shorter, the better. Its ok to be 5 lbs., but a long trigger pull is a handicap, unless your name is Jerry M.
4. Sights. The bigger, the better. Super low profile snag proof sites are hard to pick up fast.
5. Barrel. The longer, the better. Full size pistols rule here.
6. I gun you can dry fire. This is where you learn to master the game. Develop muscle memory to draw from a holster, index the sites into the target and squeeze the trigger.

There is probably a reason so many guys use the 17.

[garym1a2]

The time to turn off a safety is only a second even for us leftys. Not a lot of time for a new shooter. Besides if your current gun has a safety run with it for a few matches and you will learn to use it faster.
That said I run a Glock 21SF, G22 or G35 in USPSA matches depending on my mood.


Several of my friends are trying to get me to start shooting IDPA matches. My trouble is I don't own a striker fired pistol at this time without a safety, nor do I have a pistol setup totally for a left handed shooter. Since this is a timed match, in my mind shooting a pistol even partially setup right handed could cost you seconds. If any of youall playing this game that happen to be left handed, any and all help would be appreciated.

I've already figured out a 9mm stoked by my favorite 124gr lead load more than makes minimum power factor for the factory classes. As far as the pistol goes, I'm leaning toward a Glock 17 or a full sized M&P. The trouble is I'm not overly fond of ANY pistol that's also dishwasher safe for long term use! What say you?

Thanks in advance,
Houndog

[Houndog]

Why don't you shoot what you have to find out if you enjoy the game? After you play and watch for a while you'll see what wins and be able to form solid opinions of your own on what to buy.

What you said makes perfect sense, and I may do just that, but Mama TOLD me to go buy something that will be competitive AND she's bankrolling it!! That's HARD to say no to.

Thanks for the reply and keep em coming.

[Houndog]

I'm not a lefty, but I play the IDPA and USPSA games. I shoot a 1911 in the CDP class. If you have a 1911, (and who doesn't) an ambidextrous safety is easy to install. Most of the guys at my club shoot Glock 17's in SSP. I think the CZ75 decocker might be cool for ESP.

Thinks to consider:
1. Mag release button. Can you hit the button without changing your grip. Shifting grip costs time.
2. Mag well opening. The wider, the better. Your changing mags fast. Got to be able to slap it in.
3. Trigger pull. The shorter, the better. Its ok to be 5 lbs., but a long trigger pull is a handicap, unless your name is Jerry M.
4. Sights. The bigger, the better. Super low profile snag proof sites are hard to pick up fast.
5. Barrel. The longer, the better. Full size pistols rule here.
6. I gun you can dry fire. This is where you learn to master the game. Develop muscle memory to draw from a holster, index the sites into the target and squeeze the trigger.

There is probably a reason so many guys use the 17.

Thanks for the suggestions!
I've got a tricked out 1911 (Wilson Combat) for the CDP class, but IF I read the rule books right it's not legal for the lower classes. IF that's not the case, tell me and I'll use it to start. I was looking to start in the lowest class, and as I said, Mama's going to spring for the new pistol. (gets me out of the house and out from under her feet)

[wbrco]

I plan on starting with my Browning Hi Power in ESP. I've already removed the mag disconnect. I'm just looking for a good holster.

[Finster101]

I'm sure you will get lot's of Glock fan's here. I am not one of them but I won't rule them out. Three of the main players are S&W M&Ps, Glock and Springfield XDs. I have a 5.25 XDM competition and really like the pistol. All of these guns run well so you have to decide what fits you. Try before you buy, cause mags, holsters, and various other goodies ain't cheap.

[pal82]

Thanks for the suggestions!
I've got a tricked out 1911 (Wilson Combat) for the CDP class, but IF I read the rule books right it's not legal for the lower classes. IF that's not the case, tell me and I'll use it to start. I was looking to start in the lowest class, and as I said, Mama's going to spring for the new pistol. (gets me out of the house and out from under her feet)

Guys in the "lower classes" beat me on a regular basis. All the classes shoot together. It really doesn't matter what class you shoot, they all are very equal in the end. The only reason I wouldn't want to shoot that wilson, I wouldn't want to muff up that pretty gun going in and out of a holster 10 million times. Lots of draw and dry fire.

[Houndog]

Guys in the "lower classes" beat me on a regular basis. All the classes shoot together. It really doesn't matter what class you shoot, they all are very equal in the end. The only reason I wouldn't want to shoot that wilson, I wouldn't want to muff up that pretty gun going in and out of a holster 10 million times. Lots of draw and dry fire.

That Wilson ain't that pretty any more! I've shot the snot out of it for several years. Mechanically it's as good as it ever was, but it has it's share of battle scars. There are 2 clubs within 20 miles of my house that shoot matches and have it setup so you can shoot a match every two weeks year around.

[Liberty'sSon]

I vote for the Glock 17. That said you should try out the other striker fired polymer gun s too, you might not like the GOP angle of the Glock if you are used to the 1911.

[Artful]

Several of my friends are trying to get me to start shooting IDPA matches. My trouble is I don't own a striker fired pistol at this time without a safety, nor do I have a pistol setup totally for a left handed shooter. Since this is a timed match, in my mind shooting a pistol even partially setup right handed could cost you seconds. If any of you all playing this game that happen to be left handed, any and all help would be appreciated.

I've already figured out a 9mm stoked by my favorite 124gr lead load more than makes minimum power factor for the factory classes. As far as the pistol goes, I'm leaning toward a Glock 17 or a full sized M&P. The trouble is I'm not overly fond of ANY pistol that's also dishwasher safe for long term use! What say you?

Thanks in advance,
Houndog

You do recognize that you are competing against yourself only, you do not have to beat the next guy just your last time up at bat. What do you carry for protection now - that is where I would start. If you want to shoot a tupperware special ask to try someone's first, most of the clubs I played at were very oriented to helping new players.

[deadarrow]

I shoot in all the classifications of IDPA. Like the others have said, use what you have to get started. Trust me, you will change your mind about what you want to use as you gain experience. As far as holsters go, kydex is king. They are fast to draw from and reasonably priced. Blade tech is a good choice. The main things you will need are, a gun, 3 mags, a double mag holder, and don't forget some sort of cover garment. I was hooked after the first time I shot a match. All the guys are helpfull, ask questions if your not sure about something. My choice for guns are, 1911 for CDP, 1911 chambered in 9mm for ESP, M&P 9mm full size for SSP and a S&W model 66 revolver for both SSR using 38's and ESR using 357 magnums. Lots of guys shoot Glocks but the 34 seems to be the Glock of choice. At least up here in frozen Minnesota.

[Houndog]

Thanks for all the information guys! I think I'll just let Mama keep her money for now and use my old Wilson 1911. I had a completely different idea of how matches were shot than what youall told me. I have shot some "play rounds" with a couple of friends and think I'll like it, and I'm sure after actually shooting a few matches will have a better handle on things. All the help and advice IS much appreciated!

[MtGun44]

Clicking off the safety takes ZERO additional time, it occurs while you are bringing the gun to
target, NO time penalty at all.

Bill

[Houndog]

Clicking off the safety takes ZERO additional time, it occurs while you are bringing the gun to
target, NO time penalty at all.

Bill

I agree 100% IF you are right handed or if you have an ambi safety as is the case of my 1911. The problem is in the two lower classes of IDPA, IF I'm reading the rule book right, a 45 isn't allowed and the 2 9mm's I own are sa/da, (a 639 and a 915 Smith) do not have ambi decockers and I havn't found a FACTORY one to replace them with. You must start holstered with the safety on or the decocker engaged with a sa/da or a single action platform. Using my left thumb to disengage the decocker means a shift in my grip to do so. The other two biggies (at least to me) that slow me down are the magazine and slide release. Currently I use my trigger finger to work the magazine release and usually just rack the slide to release it when changing magazines. While doing things this way works, it's also slower. If anyone has a better method I'm all ears! The only pistol that meets the rule book 100% as I understand it AND can be changed to all left hand operation IN FACTORY FORM is an M&P Smith, but after comments and suggestions from the posters answering this thread I'm just going to use my 1911 and go from there.

Again, thanks for all the help, it's MUCH appreciated!

[robertbank]

About 90% of the guns competing in SSP Division are either made by Glock (17,34) or the S&W M&P (FS,PRO). There is a reason for it they run faster, are dead nuts reliable and accurate enough for the sport. Both the Glocks and M&P`s work just as good in ESP Division as well. The times between the two Divisions are nearly identical.

Too, you can opt for the M&P or Glock in .45acp and win there. The M&P`s work well with lead boolits, the Glocks well some guys use lead others won`t go near it in there guns.

The guns are relatively inexpensive to buy and dominate the sport. What is your next question.

Take Care

Bob

[KYShooter73]

I really like my full size M&P Pro 9mm. Trigger is pretty good stock, some "creep" like any striker fired, but the reset is easy to feel. The trigger is better than any stock Glock I've handled, and I like and own a couple Glocks, not bashing at all. The slide release is ambidextrous. My mag release isn't, but that is a simple fix. Mine also has a generous throat and will gobble up about any kind of ammo I decide to feed it.

[imashooter2]

There are no "lower classes" as you keep referring to them. Entrants in any class compete against others in that class. CDP shooters do not compete against SSR shooters. They compete against other CDP shooters.

[garym1a2]

I find as a lefty that the mag release on the left works better for me than the right side. The trigger finger drops the mag when the right hand goes for the mag. Gen 4 mags you get a choice. My trigger finger also can work the extended Glock slide release just fine but most time its not needed as I tend to slap in the mag hard and that makes the slide go forward. My favorite is the Glock22 third gen setup with a good aftermarket barrel, tons of rounds thru it.

[robertbank]

I really like my full size M&P Pro 9mm. Trigger is pretty good stock, some "creep" like any striker fired, but the reset is easy to feel. The trigger is better than any stock Glock I've handled, and I like and own a couple Glocks, not bashing at all. The slide release is ambidextrous. My mag release isn't, but that is a simple fix. Mine also has a generous throat and will gobble up about any kind of ammo I decide to feed it.

Your mag release is ambi dexterous. The manual that came with the gun shoes you how to swap it over. Takes two minutes. The PRO uses the same frame as the full size.

Take Care

Bob

[jmort]

Is it against the rules to use the Apex trigger kit? It takes the M&P to a whole new level.

[robertbank]

Is it against the rules to use the Apex trigger kit? It takes the M&P to a whole new level.

No. If you replace the trigger with the APEX FSS trigger you get moved to ESP. I installed the Apex kit, (Striker block, Sear & Springs) in my 9MMPRO and the trigger sits at a crisp 2.5#s. I have the FSS trigger installed on a PRO 40 cal I use in IPSC Standard Division and doiwn load the 40 for ESP and Steel shoots.

Replacing the striker block is the key to getting a super smooth trigger. The sear replacement adds to the crisp trigger and shorter reset.

Take Care

Bob