Watco Danish Oil

[Phineas Bluster]

Deleted

[UBER7MM]

Phineas,

Nice job! I used Watco Danish Oil as well. One nice thing about it is that because it absorbs into the wood, you can apply more at any time and doesn't have that glossy sheen that looks so un-natural in the woods.

[xs11jack]

Super job. Can't beat a finish that has Linseed oil. I also use George bros. Linspeed finish, good stuff.
Ole Jack

[Boyscout]

I use the same on my cherry and walnut scratch box turkey calls I make. When it wears a little after a couple of seasons, refinishing is very easy. Love the stuff but have never tried it on a firearm.

[chuckbuster]

If you REALLY want to put a finish on one…

After your initial "coats" have cured a few days "wet sand" it starting with 320 grit using the Watco instead of water. Makes a goopy mess but after sanding all over, WIPE don't buff the goop off across the grain with a piece of old t-shirt or similar. This helps fill the pores and since you are filling with the wood and finish you have a perfect match. Let it cure 2-3 days then do it again with a step finer paper. Repeat as many steps as you want, I once got sort of carried away and ended up at 1500 grit!! on a piece of extra fancy Maple. Still did not have that plastic gloss to it, looked sort of like the wood had a layer of water on it, very "3D" but still a soft sheen on the surface. Wish I still had that one…..

Not sure what WATCO really is but I have found it to be much harder when cured than other oils. I know that checkering a WATCO finished stock can be an adventure. It is Harder not Gummy.

One reminder, this is a drying oil, be sure to dispose of all rags and waste carefully. They can spontaneous combust if not.
Kevin

[nekshot]

I have been messing with watco for a couple years and I really like it. I found I can get a nice red winchester look on walnut by using a cherry stain first and immediatly applying watco dark walnut to the wood. It seals the wood and sanding with 400 or 600 really fills the pores nicely.

[popper]

I think their tung oil is now synthetic. Not at all like the stuff I used on antiques years ago. It coats, doesn't soak in like the Danish Oil.

[bangerjim]

I do not have any patience "watching paint dry" or "oils dry" either!

I use for ALL my finishing/refinishing NGR (non-grain-raising) Ultra-penetrating stains by Mohawk. The stuff goes on like water, soaks in because it is an aniline die, does not raise the grain, and dries in 30 minutes! It REALLY penetrates, unlike Watco that is merely a finely ground pigmented wiping stain in drying oil. If you have to "wipe it off" per the directions, it is not doing a good job. Wiping stains (Watco, Min wax, etc) cloud and hide the grain with suspended pigments, where dies soak deeply in and make the grain shine.

If you want a beautifully figured piece of wood to "jump out at you"......do it my way.

Then the final top coats can be lacquer, oil, shellac, or whatever finish fits the application needs and ware/usage.

I have been finishing wood (not just gun stocks! Antique furniture) for over 40 years and have tired them all. Penetrating dies are the only way to go. I have taught finishing classes over the years and have lots of experience in all techniques. You will not find a can of Minwax or Watco in my shops.

banger

[Cactus Farmer]

I have been a Watco fan for years. It became scarce around here for a few years (3-4) and now has returned. I was a happy fellow to find it again, and the "new" stuff appears to be just as good as the last. Dark Walnut is my goto stain although I have other shades to better match whatever stock I'm repairing.

[oscarflytyer]

Watco is my primary go to. Love the stuff.

[Maven]

Here's a link to the Mohawk penetrating stain(s) bangerjim recommended: http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=178

[krag35]

I have never used Watco on a rifle stock, but it is my "Go to" finish for furniture I build. For stocks, I prefer "Howard's" orange oil and Bees wax. that's not exactly the right name, but it's 11 degrees out, and I'm not walking to the shop to get it perfect.

[bubba.50]

watco Danish oil is about all I use these days. by alternatin' between dark walnut, cherry, & natural I can get/match about any color I want. and if it gets kinda raggedy lookin' just wipe on another coat.

[Bren R.]

I use Watco Danish oil nearly exclusively, either as a final "oil finish" or between the staining and poly coats.

Bren R.

[Just Duke]

I use Watco Dark Walnut and Pumice for wet sanding dark grainy woods that I have just lacquered for polishing table tops. I also use it for wet sanding.