Winchester mold

[bearbud]

I have few questions on one of those old Winchester single cavity 25-20 mold (wooden handles) that I have and I really want to keep original.
The mold cast small (0.256”). So before I go and look for the Aluminum tape, I would like to know if “Beagleing” a non-vented (smooth face) mold works?
Is there is any way that I can keep the sprue plate screw tight. Every time I open the sprue the screw will open with the plate. I don’t want to drill and tap the mold. I tried using loctite, didn’t work. I tried using brass slivers on the threads, but it only lasted a short time. Any ideas?
Also, I noticed that the base of the bullet doesn’t end with the last driving bend, but extends a bit and forms a round base. Was this the norm at that time? Thanks in advance for your advice, bearbud

[frugal]

In my experience beagling does not work on a fixed handle mould. I tried it on an old #6 lyman fixed handle 321232 mould, the nickle plated all in one moulds lyman sold a hundred years ago. The mould halves do not independently pivot, so when you apply tape it does not space both sides of the mould evenly. The outer half will be open further than the inner half causing finning. I had the brilliant idea of picking up this old 32-40 mould and thought I could beagle it to 323. The end result is an out of round bullet.

[catskinner]

All the Winchester molds I have do have a slight bevel base. The only way I've found to keep the sprue plate screw from turning is to drill and tap for a set screw. I don't do it to the pristine examples I have but it sure keeps the frustration level down when actually using the mold.

[bearbud]

Thank you Frugal and catskinner. I will order a new mold. bearbud

[Le Loup Solitaire]

The old Winchester molds with the wooden handles apparently came out around 1894. They were made in a large variety of calibers many of which were for black powder, but can be used with smokeless. The molds were unvented. The sprue plate/cutter does not have to be tight against the tops of the blocks; it can just sit on the blocks and swing open on its own weight when the mold is tilted. You can install a wave washer between the screw head and the plate; it might help by providing a bit of tension under the screw head, but don't over tighten things. There isn't much wiggle room for making those molds cast larger. Of course they can be lapped, but another viable option would be to add some tin...about 2% to WW metal or try linotype. You can do a search on "Terracorp" which was used by Redding/Saeco to predict bullet diameters when using tine and antimony alloys. I have a couple of molds in 38-55 and am fortunate that they work well for me without any problems although they have a tendency to overheat if I cast too quickly for any length of time. LLS

[NoZombies]

All of the single piece winchester molds I've owned or seen have had the minor bevel base.

As has been mentioned, beagling isn't a very good option for increasing diameter.

To keep the sprue screw where I want it, I remove the screw, and add pieces of #12 shot to the hole and tighten, experimenting to get to where I want it.

[captaint]

I had to have one of those old Winchester molds for my 38/55 Jap hi wall. Mine, too, cast too small for modern day bores. Fortunately, the seller was OK with taking it back. I ended up getting a mold from Veral, which worked out very well. Mike