Question about polishing 1911 parts

[Animal]

I just ordered a RIA GI Milspec 1911 .45 acp. It seems like most people who know these guns talk about 'polishing' this or that on a brand new 1911. I have no idea what they are referring to. What should I do to follow the proper 1911 ritual other than clean, lube, shoot and repeat over and over? If I sound like I don't know what I'm talking about, it is because I don't know what I'm talking about.

Thanks!

[starnbar]

Take it out and shoot it first with about everything you might run through it after its broken in good try what it may have issues with. Then you can decide if you want to change or polish a feed ramp or not I've seen more messed up ramps than fixed but its on your dime.

[williamwaco]

I just ordered a RIA GI Milspec 1911 .45 acp. It seems like most people who know these guns talk about 'polishing' this or that on a brand new 1911. I have no idea what they are referring to. What should I do to follow the proper 1911 ritual other than clean, lube, shoot and repeat over and over? If I sound like I don't know what I'm talking about, it is because I don't know what I'm talking about.

Thanks!


Animal,

You have answered your own question.
You should do NOTHING beyond field stripping and cleaning.

[ultramag]

Animal,

You have answered your own question.
You should do NOTHING beyond field stripping and cleaning.

I think this is probably good advice in regards to stoning and polishing parts for you for now.

That being said, the one Rock Island .45 I had definitely needed a detail strip and cleaning when new. It was close to the same condition an old military rifle was stored in. It wasn't cosmoline, but it was just coated everywhere in a thick preservative. I think everyone who is going to spend much time with a 1911 should at least know how to detail strip, clean thoroughly, and reassemble the weapon. It's not that hard if you have any understanding of how a firearm works and the slightest mechanical aptitude.

There are several good sources on the internet and youtube for doing a detail strip. The following is a pretty good one to help a new guy get through it the first few times:

http://www.10-8performance.com/pages/1911-User's-Guide.html

I virtually never take down the mainspring housing as I find it's not necessary even with large amounts of shooting. If you don't understand what you read and watch here at all, then perhaps you should lean more towards William's advice. If you do have a basic understanding of the info, then we all gotta start somewhere. Always perform your safety and function checks on a 1911 after a detail strip, even when you think you have it mastered.

[country gent]

Follow he manual and detail strip it clean and relube acordding to the manual, then shoot it for awhile. Most manufacturers dont recomend trigger jobs reworking till 400-500 rds have been fired. This breaks everything in and establishes the wear marks to allow diagnoses of tight areas and bearing area.
Clean it good, lube it and then with a few boxes of ball have some fun with it. Shoot it and see what it does and if it needs anything done. Most dont.

[MtGun44]

The only parts I do any polishing on when doing a 'tune up' are the feed ramp and the bottom
corner of the extractor, plus setting up extractor tension properly.

First, shoot the gun and if no problems, leave it be - beyond a good cleaning and lubing.

If it has issues, PM me and I can help you sort it out.

Bill

[9w1911]

call my buddy Gene Shuey
http://www.shueycustom.com/1911.htm

shameless plug

[David2011]

Follow he manual and detail strip it clean and relube acordding to the manual, then shoot it for awhile. Most manufacturers dont recomend trigger jobs reworking till 400-500 rds have been fired. This breaks everything in and establishes the wear marks to allow diagnoses of tight areas and bearing area.
Clean it good, lube it and then with a few boxes of ball have some fun with it. Shoot it and see what it does and if it needs anything done. Most dont.

+1! Break it in. You can use cast boolits because you're breaking in the slide to frame rail contact. You're also verifying that the extractor, ejector, barrel link, slide stop (locks back properly) and other parts fit well enough to work properly. You may see the accuracy improve substantially after a few hundred rounds. A 1911 likes to be on the wet side when it comes to lube. My 1911/2011s run wet enough that I have designated shirts for pistol matches because the oil works out of the back of the slide and leaves stains. I like FP-10 on semi-autos but any medium bodied oil is fine. Avoid the thin lubricants like LPS and Rem-Oil. They don't hold up under the beating of a 1911. For sure leave the trigger job in particular to someone experienced in 1911s.

David