Which mold to try first?

[twoshotc]

I have been using cast bullets in .357 swc from Lucky 13. I use them in a S&W 686 and a Rossi twenty inch model 92. They have been chambering in both 38's and 357 in the Rossi.
I was happy that both would chamber since many folks have trouble with one of the two.
I am not sure how good the accuracy is with these bullets in the Rossi. I am still working with the sights and trigger.
The load has been 7.8gr of Herco under the 158 gr bullets for .357 and 4.7gr of Herco in the 38s.
My question is -- I am considering trying to cast my own and I do not have a clue what mold to buy. I just do informal target shooting but I would like the bullets to be adequate for defense of the homestead. I realize that there maybe a lot of choices but bring them on.
thanks
twoshotc

[ShooterAZ]

My recommendation would be either the RCBS 38-158-CM, or the 38-140-CM. I have no experience with the Rossi M92, but these two boolits have served me well in all the 38/357's I own. For me, the Round Flat designs just seem more accurate than a SWC, in my guns anyway. The RCBS molds are a little spendy and are only 2 cavity, but worth every penny in my opinion.

[paul h]

I'd suggest the lee 158 rf in the 6 cavity mold

[MtGun44]

Lee 358 158 RF would be a good one. It is superbly accurate in my.357s and has a LBT sort of
WFN contour, so PROBABLY will feed in the Rossi, depending on how picky it is. Not having
a .357 levergun, I have no clue how much they complain about shapes other than RN.

But it IS a great design and very accurate.

Bill

[cbrick]

And by the way twoshotc, welcome to CastBoolits . . . :mrgreen:

Rick

[MtGun44]

I failed to notice the post count. A newbie is worthy of a bit more
effort.

Welcome, sir.

Hope your project works out. The primary issue is getting
the boolits large enough and properly lubed to prevent leading.
Once you have that nailed, you will find .357 Mag to be no problem in
loading. My unknown area is feeding and chambering in the Rossi, I would
imagine this to be the problem (if any), rather than the revolver. As you
mentioned, a significant issue is getting the two guns to agree on a diameter.

For a revolver, you would normally size to throat diam or even .001 over throat
if that showed best accy and chambered freely. Many times .001 under
throat diameter will work quite well. For the rifle, you will have to find
out both the groove diameter (too small is a non-starter) and critically, find
out what the maker did with the throating. Sometimes there is a generous
throat so boolit selection is a matter of trying to fill up the throat so that the
boolit is guided into the rifling without tipping. If the throat is minimal, then
the exercise is finding a boolit design that will permit closing the lever
without jamming the full diameter part of the boolit into the rifling and
preventing closing. This can sometimes be a trying exercise to find a diameter
and style that will suit both guns well.

The mentioned Lee design is superb for the revolver, but unless you make a hammered
slugging of the chamber and throat, there is no way to know on the rifle without
trying samples of boolit designs in dummy cartridges (best with no crimping and
not flaring the case when making the dummy) to see how well the design comports
with the throating. Sometimes all that is needed is slightly deeper seating if the
boolit strikes the rifling, other times it is necessary to find a new design. Suiting
each gun separately can be interesting and fun. Finding a design and diameter that
works and is accurate and does not lead in both might be more difficult.

Good luck.

Bill

[Bret4207]

DO NOT start with a 6 cavity mould. There's a learning curve to this. Start with a single or 2 cav and learn to make good boolits, then move on to the 6 cavs if you want.

['74 sharps]

The RCBS or Lyman 158gr flat nose should work fine. Pounding a chunk of lead through my barrels has never been an appealing project, so I shoot as cast and have never had any accuracy or leading issues.