Loading Die Set Screws?

[williamwaco]

What is up with loading die lock ring set screws?

These are the smallest part of the device. They are critical to consistent operation.

In the past, they were made of steel with a small lead plug to prevent damage to the die threads.

Then they changed them to brass "to prevent damage to the die threads".

The past three sets of dies I have purchased, one Lyman and two RCBS, have brass set screws. They are about as hard as jello.
It is not possible to screw them in tight enough to lock the ring. The wrench strips out the head of the set screw before it gets tight enough to prevent the lock ring from turning.

Any one else having this problem.

[SWANEEDB]

Yep, the brass is soft and the allen wrench strips out real easy, just got to live with it I guess.

[Alvarez Kelly]

The Forster/RCBS split ring types work great.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Split rings are definitely preferable , however you can buy a whole box of Steel or Stainless Steel set screws with either nylon or brass points for <$5.00 from McMaster-Carr, and have a lifetime supply.

Your local hardware store will probably have them as well.

Randy

[Whiterabbit]

If they were steel with a lead tip, why can't you drop a lead pellet or bead of shotgun shot down the hole and follow it up with a stainless screw?

I don't have a problem with my RCBS dies, but if I did, after having read this thread, that's the first thing I would do. And if I had no shot, I'd take a dripping from my drip-o-matic and do the same thing.

Should work, no?

[Maven]

+1 to what Whiterabbit said!

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

That's what I love about this forum. Whenever a problem pops up, at least one member offers a good solution, usually many members.

[JWFilips]

Is there a source available to purchase the old style RCBS split rings? I still like those better then these new set screw type rings

[dilly]

A lot if people (myself included) like the Hornady lock rings. Check them out.

[Randy C]

I use a piece of shot gun shot behind the screw, last time I had one strip I called RCBS and they sent me a bag of them.

[country gent]

I use a piece of plastic as a buffer. Local Hardware store has the semi flexible plastic tubing for a cheap per foot price. Its around .060 wall thickness. My leather puch turned to appropriate punch makes 2 at a time. Theres probably close to 100 or so in the foot I have.

[EDG]

Quit over tightening your lock rings. Any tighter with the brass screws and they will dent the die threads.
I use a thumb and a forefinger on the small end of the allen wrench. I spin the die into the press until it stops and leave it. Yes it will loosen slightly but never very much and I just check it now and then.

I have bought lots of used dies and it appears many hand loaders install the dies in the press like wrenching down lug nuts on a 3/4 ton pickup. Lock rings and die bodies alike have pipe wrench marks. The dies do not have to be that tight.

[Hardcast416taylor]

Buy some split rings and you won`t be stripping screw heads or damaging die threads.Robert

[nicholst55]

Be careful using a steel setscrew with the RCBS lock rings. They're not hardened, and they will split. Go ahead, AMHIK.

[44Vaquero]

Here is an "Old Timer" solution from using Lyman 310 tools. Use a regular steel set screw, with a piece of lead shot in front of the set screw. The set screw will push the shot up against the threads and keep the set screw from damaging the threads. I got my shot from an old 16 gauge shell I had rolling around in the locker.

[AZ Pete]

Keep an eye out for the split rings found on Forster, some Lyman, some RCBS and/or Hornady dies. About $3 per ring is a fair deal. Buy several when you find a good price. If not, get a steel set screw and lead shot. I like steel, rather than stainless for set screws in dies, but have changed over to split rings on almost all of my dies, over the years.

Here's some from MidSouth, at a reasonable price, if you are placing an order with them.
http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/department.asp?dept=Reloading&dept2=DIE+PARTS+%26+ACC.&dept3=DIE+LOCK+RING

[462]

Split-rings or Lee's O-ring design.

[joehaberxxx]

I agree with dilly - The Hornady split rings with their wrench works for me. I don't like the knurled rings that you eventually have to use pliers to keep tight

[Wally]

I agree...the Lee O-rings work extremely well IMHO. Easy to adjust and you can even use them slightly loose which I think helps with alignment. I have a lot of split rings as well, but they aren't as easy to make minute adjustments with as are the Lee O-rings.


Split-rings or Lee's O-ring design.

[mdi]

As a lifelong machinist/mechanic, I definitely think 99% of set screw users tighten them waaaay too tight. The purpose of a set screw on a lock nut/ring is to prevent the nut/ring from moving/turning, not to permanently lock the ring in place. There is no need to go beyond "pretty snug". Way too many fellers play "gorilla" when dealing with screws, nuts, bolts and scar, warp, and distort threads. Just like guns; if a 317 Quipper ain't big/fast/powerful enough, get a .411 Spooner Special. If a 10-32 set screw won't hold without stripping the socket, or distorting the threads, get a 12-24 or bigger. Personally, and mebbe it's from my 50+ years experience turning nuts and bolts, I have no problem with Lee's aluminum, O-ring lock rings (actuall they work just like "Ny-lok", or nylon insert lock nuts)...

I once purchased a couple sets of RCBS dies from ebay (never again). Both sets, 5 dies had the threads so distorted it took quite a bit od work with a thread file and thread chaser to restore the threads to function. All set screws were trashed 'cause sockets were rounded/split, and screw threads mangled. 3 out of five lock nuts/rings were gouged/mangled from using vice grips and or pliers. The other two rings had rounded corners. Die bodies had plier grooves permanitely gouged in the sides. All from some thinking "I just gotta get them a little tighter"...

[Wayne Smith]

If my dies have Channel lock marks it's because, once I screw them down and lock the ring, I can't get them off without the Channel lock wrench. Actually the Channel Lock wrench doesn't leave much of a mark.

[BCB]

I take all the set screws and throw them away…

I get brass screws with slotted heads that are about ½ to ¾ inch long with the same thread as the set screw…

Sometimes it is necessary to grind some of the edge off of the screw head so it will turn when screwing the ring down onto the press…

A #9 shot between the screw and the die threads and all is good…

The slotted head doesn’t round off…

The rings look a bit strange with the brass screw sticking out, but they work…

‘Nuff said…

Good-luck…BCB

[mdi]

Wow, channel locks? If a fastener has flats, like a nut or bolt, use the proper tool. A socket wrench, box wrench, open end wrench, or at the very least a crescent wrench. Pliers of are not designed for hexagonal nuts/bolt heads, they have teeth that are meant to grip/bite into round or odd shaped metal.

Sorry, rant off.;) I was an apprentice to a machinist for nearly 6 years and was a machinist/mechanic for prolly 40 years working with all types of fasteners and shaping/forming metal. I learned the proper use of hand tools and it still sticks with me...

[hiram]

I have use a leather plug behind set screws. I get them from using a hole punch in leather and the punched out center does fine.

[BCB]

If my dies have Channel lock marks it's because, once I screw them down and lock the ring, I can't get them off without the Channel lock wrench. Actually the Channel Lock wrench doesn't leave much of a mark.

I agree…

If you have the round lock ring, it has no flat surfaces and I also use channel locks…

I have also noticed that when you tighten the set screw on the lock ring, it seems to tighten it to the press even more. Split rings are worse. I absolutely hate them…

I do change all my round lock rings to the six-sided ones and use the brass screws…

And so it goes…

Good-luck…BCB

[Wayne Smith]

I got most of my die sets off eBay before the current craziness. I have almost all round lock rings.

[W.R.Buchanan]

You know,,,, If you just put a piece of leather or cardboard or pretty much anything under your channel lock jaws you won't even mark the rings when you turn them.

Randy

[W.R.Buchanan]

I personally like my idea of buying a box of 25 ea. 10-32 X 1/4" Brass point setscrews from McMaster-Carr for $11.32 part #91381A338

Or nylon point screws #94115A825 for $13.12/ 25ea.

Just me thinking out loud.

Randy

[cheese1566]

I personally like my idea of buying a box of 25 ea. 10-32 X 1/4" Brass point setscrews from McMaster-Carr for $11.32 part #91381A338

Or nylon point screws #94115A825 for $13.12/ 25ea.

Just me thinking out loud.

Randy

Me too! But I get the regulars. Sometimes I just use a snip off a solder roll.

Just remember when using lead shot in front of your set screw, lightly tap the lock ring after loosening the set screw. A slight tap on te die will loosen the ring enough for easy moving.

[Wayne Smith]

If you have a brass light pull chain just cut one of the beads off and drop it in.