Ruger MKII standard model

[krag35]

Now I remember why I rarely shoot this pistol. I have to clean it afterword, and once apart, it refuses to go back together. It does not matter where the little "dangleling" thing is, it does not matter where the safety is, it does not matter where anything thing is in relationship to any other thing on this pistol. The bolt stop "cams out" when ever I try to put it back in place. I'll get it eventually, but it will go back in the safe for a couple more years until I forget what a pain this is to reassemble, and I remember how accurate it is.

One hour and 3 youtube video's and counting. :-)

[JWFilips]

The first time for me was 3 hours Then I figured it out..... I wish I had magic to tell you, you just got to feel it Then it becomes easy There are a few you tube vids that are excellent...can't remember the best Try asking on the Ruger forum They would know

Try http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYHJm2P4kP0&feature=youtu.be

[paul h]

It can be a bugaboo when you don't hold it at the correct angle to get it lined up properly. And when you do, you wonder why the heck it was so hard.

Here's a tip, don't take it apart. Lock the bolt open, blast it with carb cleaner, cycle the bolt, wipe it off, and repeat. Use an old tooth brush to clean around the ejection port and bolt face with the bolt is locked open. Blast everything with a good teflon lube, cycle the action several times and wipe off the excess. If the lube brings out more gunk, repeat the carb cleaner.

[44Vaquero]

Krag35, You might want to go this route: http://www.eabco.com/Ruger_Mk_III_Speed_Strip.html EAB actually makes a kit for all three types of MK's.

[marvelshooter]

Now I remember why I rarely shoot this pistol. I have to clean it afterword, and once apart, it refuses to go back together. It does not matter where the little "dangleling" thing is, :-)
The " little dangly thing" is the hammer strut. When you are reassembling the pistol hold the trigger back with the safety off and shake the pistol to make sure the hammer is forward or you will not get the strut where it belongs in the mainspring housing. If you don't feel the mainspring compressing when you swing the little lever in to lock the housing the strut is not where it belongs. Remove the housing and pull the trigger and either shake the gun some more push the hammer forward with a pencil and try again.

[krag35]

I got it, knew I would eventually. I used to work in a place that had a vibrating solvent tank. I would pull the grips off and put it in the tank, turn it on, and at the end of the shift, I would pull it out, blow it dry with air, reinstall the grips and go on my way. I may need to invest in a solvent tank :-) thanks to all for the advice.

I was forgetting to pull the trigger during re assembly.

[PalmettoShooter]

Mine puts back together easy, but I stab myself damn each time I take it apart. I hate the little locking lever or whatever it's called on the grip that you have to pop. Use a paperclip? Still stabbed myself. But boy do I love shooting it!

[MtGun44]

EXTREMELY simple once you understand the issue.

When I was 16 and this was my only gun, I took it apart and the fear
it instilled in me made me learn and remember how to put it back
together again. I have shown many people and they say "Wow,
that is so easy" after they see what they are actually trying to do!

Read this a few times and think about it.

The issue is getting the hammer strut to hit the indentation in the backstrap, which
is a cap on the mainspring, which is inside the backstrap.

Here are the key points:

1) to get the bolt removed, you have to get the hammer BACK in the cocked
position.
2) to get the bolt back into the receiver, the hammer must STILL be BACK.
3) the hammer flops around by gravity and is controlled by the sear, too
when there is no backstrap in place - so no mainspring.
4) the hammer must be FORWARD to reassemble the backstrap. Pull the
trigger with the muzzle down. Look up into the backstrap hole with a
flashlight and you can easily see the hammer postion and the flopping
hammer strut.

5) with the hammer forward, push the pin that goes up thru the reciever
all the way up, with the backstrap hinged out of the way. It MUST go all
the way up, so that it bumps out the top. You might have to whack it
with a plastic hammer. If it is not all the way up, the latch that wraps
around the frame crossbar right next to the pin will cam the pin down
out of position as you rotate the backstrap towards the installed postion.

6) THIS IS THE CRUX -- tilt the gun muzzle up at about a 45-50 degree
angle and KEEP IT THERE. Rotate the backstrap forward and feel for the
hammer strut, you may need to raise or lower the muzzle SLIGHTLY
to get the strut to hit the socket in the backstrap, but you can feel it
and then toggle over the latch.

Hope this helps. Spend some time looking up inside with a flashlight
and watch the hammer move around as you tip the gun and pull
the trigger. Get used to moving the hammer around to where you
want it to be.

Bill

[Bullshop Junior]

I have had a mark I and a mark II both bull barrel. I wish i could find another one. I loved them. Unfortanatly they got stolen and i cant find another one off papers.

[Hammerhead]

I've gotten pretty good recently at field stripping and detail stripping my Mark II standard NRA/WBR commemorative. I polished the internals in a three part process. Finally got the trigger the way I want it. All stock, still has a little creep with the deep hammer notch, but it's buttery smooth. So happy with the trigger pull I added a Fasfire III in the custom rear sight slot mount.
Pretty sweet setup that gets shot a lot.
I only clean after 3 or 4 range session.

[44man]

I never clean until it stops from crud. Just no need.
I still have two but have had 5 or 6 over the years from the first standard Mark I that was $37.50.
Never had any problem putting them together, the instructions are straight forward.
When you remove the barrel and receiver put some STP on the hook to prevent wear.

[rattletrap1970]

There really IS a trick to these. I do trigger upgrades all the time for people in our club.
One thing you have to realize is the receiver CAN misalign not only front to back, but also left to right.
I use the retention pin to help with this, I insert it from the TOP of the pistol to check the alignment of the receiver to the grip frame.
Once I'm sure it's aligned, I insert the pin in its installation orientation.

Here is the trick.
1. IMPORTANT PART #1 Pull the trigger so the hammer releases.
2. IMPORTANT PART #2. Take a pair or tweezers or hemostats and grab the little hammer tang that hangs from the hammer and make sure it is swingin free and doesn't hang up on the cross pin.
3. Orient the pistol so the swinging tang engages the hammer spring hole as you close up the gun and latch it.

That's it

[birch]

If you want a really fun evening, buy a Volquartzen hammer, sear, trigger to put in the ol' girl. Don't even mess with a manual. That is waaaay too easy. Just get the parts, some punches, and a screwdriver or two and have at-er.

Caveat: Jack Daniels works--Kesslers if you are someone like me who would rather buy brass, boolits, and powder.