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View Full Version : Best Cleaning Method for Lever Guns



WBH
11-16-2007, 01:10 PM
I have gotten up the nerve to shoot some "real" GP in my original 1873 Winnie. I have shot alot of smokeless through her, but never BP. I get about .125" compression with 17 grains of 1.5 Swiss.

I am looking for the best way to clean her without getting the action and follower full of corrosive slop. I shoot all my BPCR rollers and Sharps with BP, but they are easy compared to a LA.

Any suggestions?

montana_charlie
11-16-2007, 01:39 PM
Any suggestions?
If a '73 ejects through the top like a '94, just open the action and stuff a rag in catch the crud. Wedge the rag tight enough to push the follower down and hold it.

The Boresnake is another alternative...
CM

martinibelgian
11-17-2007, 04:24 AM
Or do like you would do with a Martini - put the rifle upside down in the cleaning cradle.... The crud will drop out of the action by gravity.

NickSS
11-19-2007, 06:47 AM
I use an Otters pull through cleaning system for all my guns that I can not clean from the rear with a cleaning rod. Prevents the possibility of wear on the crown and also keeps all the crud out of the action.

Hip's Ax
11-19-2007, 08:29 AM
I'm not a lever action guy (not yet, soon maybe) but the way I clean problem rifles like Garands and my M1A is like martinibelgian said, turned upside down in the cleaning cradle and I use a pull through from breech to muzzle. I use the Otis coated cable.

AnthonyB
11-19-2007, 10:13 AM
Why not just take it down when you need to do a detailed cleaning? It really isn't that difficult - I can take a 94 or 92 Winchester bolt out in less than two minutes, and I'm sure the 73 can't be too much different. Tony

floodgate
11-19-2007, 03:42 PM
Anthony B:

Actually, while the '73 comes apart pretty easily, all you have to run the rod through is the 1/4" hole the firing pin goes through back to the hammer. Also, after looking at how they (and the '66 and '76) are assembled, you may want to be REAL cautious about firing any cartridges or loads heavier than the originals through them. More than one old timer ended up with that firing pin stuck through his cheek-bone or eye socket.

floodgate

KCSO
11-19-2007, 04:18 PM
If you use a pull through and pull from the breech to the muzzle you can clean it up good. I usually only tear mine down once a year to detail clean. Actualy for all they hype and nonsense you hear the 73 and the 76 were way stronger than they needed to be. Read the Winchester factory tests on these guns some time. The biggest problem with the rifles was the ammunition. The old baloon and folded head ammo would harden in the very base from the mercuric primers and if reloaded of stored in damp conditions the case would seperate on firing right at the base and ALL the gase escaped through the action. I notice that these same WEAK actions are now being chambered for 357 magnum. I recently fired about 100 rounds of factory JHP's through one and had zero problems. These loads developed over 30,000 psi and are about triple the pressure of the b/p 44-40's.

AnthonyB
11-19-2007, 05:05 PM
Floodgate, thanks, I didn't know that. There's my new thing learned today!
Tony

WBH
11-19-2007, 09:37 PM
I few responses are in order.

First..The toggle action of an old (before the very early 1900's) is an inheritedly weak action. That coupled with metalurgy that was antiquated can lead to BIG problems. The replicas, are the equivalent to the 3rd generation (Level Three) rifles and many can handle 25,000 CUP. The orginal BP loading produced 9,000 CUP.

Second..Using a bore snake type cleaner gets dirty in a real hurry with BP, unlike the Garand using smokeless.

Probably the best suggestion so far is just to clean "upside down" and let the crub run out the top of the action. I just have to keep the dust cover back and away from any liquid. With these guns approaching the 4-5k dollar mark, it's nice to take care of them the best you can.

crossfireoops
11-19-2007, 10:15 PM
"Anthony B:

"Actually, while the '73 comes apart pretty easily, all you have to run the rod through is the 1/4" hole the firing pin goes through back to the hammer. Also, after looking at how they (and the '66 and '76) are assembled, you may want to be REAL cautious about firing any cartridges or loads heavier than the originals through them. More than one old timer ended up with that firing pin stuck through his cheek-bone or eye socket.

floodgate"

Damn, I'm glad to here that, and would be even more tickled to see it on highway billboards, and in neon.....every week.

NEVER shoot a Toggle link design without first pulling the side plates, and verifying the presence of BOTH toggles / links........shysters have gun-showed 'em forever, .....feel how smooth that action is......I guess it's smooth, ....half of it missing.....and all.

A quick stop at the local emporium to pick up some "Cowboy Ammo"....and the buyer heads out to his range, (can't wait to shoot it)........

Sad, and very dangerous........Keep your pressures DOWN in older toggle link designs, verify that both links are there, and sound.

GTC

floodgate
11-20-2007, 01:47 AM
A kid in my hometown out in Owens Valley found a very early original '66 stuffed into a big greasewood bush. Heavily worn at the carrying point, barrel loose in the bronze frame, head of the bolt blown off and one link broken through. It's now in the Eastern Calif. Museum in Independence.

But - Jim - I'll admit, the body of the bolt had stayed in the receiver, and the firing pin was still there. I'm still goosey about heavy or modern loads in them, though. Even though the .357 is triple the pressure of the old BP loads, the bolt thrust from the smaller cartridge head is "only" about twice that of the .44 Henry or .44-40; still more than I'd be comfortable with.

floodgate