Lube versus powder type?

[Beekeeper]

As stated in annother post I use Diamond back powder in all of my guns.
One thing I have always wondered is "Does the type of lube make a difference with different types of powder"
I use Emmerts lube now .
I also have some 50/50 beeswax/ olive oil lube that I made but haven't tried yet.
Pro/con.
Will it keep the fowling softer or not.
I am sure it has been discussed to a stand still but did not find anything on it so decided to ask again.


beekeeper

[bigted]

in my experience the lube either makes or breaks the success when shooting blackpowder. I had a heck of a time for a couple years before I finally stopped playing with making my own. I had miserable success with the home made lube but will give it another go when everything else settles down some. the #1 reason is that you have need of a lube that will keep the leading down in the barrel AND at the same time to mix with the fouling to soften it for either a cleaning swab or soft enough to be pushed out with the next shot. in the push out with the next boolit ... you would need a boolit that holds plenty of lube or use a lube cookie to help with the softening of the lube.

unless you have a softening condition or a cleaning regimen ... then the accuracy will suffer with the dry and hard fouling left behind with each shot of blackpowder. followed with leading as the soft lead boolit goes burning past this hard fouling. then with each progressive shot you compound the condition till the bore is so choked up that even chambering a round can be a problem.

I have found that after experimenting ,., I use SPG on all my boolits whether shooting smokless or blackpowder. I also have a 50/50 mix of bee wax/vaseline that I use for a cookies.

when I need to lube the paperpatch on my boolits I use the Redding case forming lube in those little round tin's and it seems to work well.

[CanoeRoller]

Lube has to do a lot of things all at once. It keeps the barrel from leading. It keeps fouling soft. It helps to protect the boolit from deformation

So we are asking lube to be soft and hard, to melt and be solid, to lubricate, but not too much. It is no wonder that it appears as much magic as science.

I feel the type of powder, boolit, caliber, weather and even the type of shooting you prefer all impact which lube will work best for you.

['74 sharps]

A 50/50 mix of beeswax and Crisco with a damp patch between shots and life is good................just keeping it simple.

[country gent]

Ive been using the Emmerts Improved version for awhile now. 50% beeswax, 40% crisco, 5% canola or olive oil, and 5% annahydrous lanolin. I have also used spg. Powder type and granulation and the amount of, does seem to matter as does barrel length. A longer barrel requires more / better lube to go the full length. I lube all the available grooves and add a .125 cookie under grease grooved bullets and a 3/16" under paper patched, I also wipe the paper patch lightly with the lube Im using. I have also been trying wiping bore riding grease grooved bullets with the lube on the noses. A patch with a small amount of lube worked into it leaves a light coat on the nose to help there. I also blow tube between shots 3-4 deep breaths, in hot dry weather I wet my mouth with water just before.
Watch the muzzle for a lube star forming ( should start at 2-3 rounds) and dry crusty feeling fouling when cleaning. Not enough lube for barrel length no lube star and crusty fouling the last 6" or so of the barrel.

[Dan Cash]

I use a bee wax, neatsfoot 50/50 mix with a couple ounces of lanolin added per pound of lube for all bullets and to lube smokeless patched bullets too. The same lube makes as good of case sizing/forming lube as I have ever found. Grease groove bullets do not get any additional grease wad and for blackpowder, I blow tube only. It gets as hot and dry as any where in the country here in the North Dakota bad Lands and eastern Montana except for the desert. Emmerts or your 50/50 lube should work well for you for a wide range of applications with smokeless and BP.