questions about a shiloh to those who own them

[webradbury]

Hello,

I think I am about to order a Shiloh 1874 spotter #3. I'm wondering what the standard metal finish looks like. I see that in the options selection polished metal costs more. What is the difference in standard and polished metal? How about the receiver... is color case hardened a standard finish from them. I know I should probably call Shiloh With these questions but always like to talk to you fellas. Thanks Will

[country gent]

Look at their website also they show most of the diffrent finishes. They offer alot of selections as to finish. polish and wood. But call and talk to them for sure they can describe the diffrent finishes and may have "samples" they can send out. Most sharps actions are case hardened and to my eye it is a wonderful finish when done right. All the diffrent colors showing and the random pattern of such. Polished blue may have some issues with glare and shine when hunting. These rifles are custom made so you can have just what you want, Take the time and decide what it is you want and get it right. Enjoy the process its alot of fun. Then the worst parts comes the wait while its being built. I have 2-3 months wait yet on my CPA rifle. These are not off the shelf rifles, but built to order as ordered. You can have what ever barrel, barrel length, countour, and finish. Triggers are nother option. Sights. Stock/forend styles, forend tips, Wood grades, type of wood, checkering, and finish. Butt plates style finish checkering. Then there is the options of engraving. All of this needs to be considered and thought out. Talk to the builders and let them work with you understand the process fully and the how what and why of everything.

[bigted]

country gent steered you rite. that IS the way to get your Shiloh.

as to mine ... it is the Hartford model with the pewter fore end cap. straight wrist. 30 inch barrel. my rifle is cased on receiver, lever, lock, hammer. the finish on the barrel is non shiny kinda a black look ... sorta like you woulda gotten if you ordered it from THE sharps factory about 130 to 140 years ago. my wood is also what would be expected from that period. everything on mine is what woulda been found on a working buff rifle. except for the caliber ...[mine is a 45-120]... you coulda ordered it from that grand old factory years ago ... just what I want ... period like rifle.


edit ... try to post pictures

great idea Don ... pictures say a thousand words

http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy55/bigted1956/8_zpsd105361a.jpg (http://s777.photobucket.com/user/bigted1956/media/8_zpsd105361a.jpg.html)

http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy55/bigted1956/9_zpse76ba201.jpg (http://s777.photobucket.com/user/bigted1956/media/9_zpse76ba201.jpg.html)

http://i777.photobucket.com/albums/yy55/bigted1956/10_zps74d18db9.jpg (http://s777.photobucket.com/user/bigted1956/media/10_zps74d18db9.jpg.html)

[Don McDowell]

Not the best picture in the world, but this is a standard #3
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f358/Ranch137/3Sharps2.jpg

[webradbury]

That helps a lot, Don. The finish on the barrel looks just like my C. Sharps...I like it. Thanks, Will

[Don McDowell]

Glad to help Will. Just had this rifle rebarreled to 44-77 and if the first 20 rounds out of it mean anything it's going to be a tac driver...

Ted that's a good looking Hartford.

[bigted]

thanks Don ... thinkin bout sending it in for a rebarrel also.

[BruceB]

Shiloh re-barreled my Farmingdale-built (1980?) rifle a few years ago.

The finish on the OUTSIDE of the new barrel is far rougher than that on the "Old Reliable"-marked original barrel, with highly-visible "polishing scratches" under the blue. The original barrel showed no such marks at all, being absolutely dead-smooth.

Internally, the new barrel looks fine. Since they did the job for 1/2-price, I didn't think it swas uch a bad deal.

[Don McDowell]

thanks Don ... thinkin bout sending it in for a rebarrel also.
Ted I had them rebarrel and install slingswivel studs and the bill with shipping was about 750. If you visit with them and get the rifle to them when they make the run of barrel contours you want the rifle to have you'll get it back quicker, than just sending it in at random.

[CanoeRoller]

I have two Shilohs. A Hartford model; it is all standard. It is what you would expect to see in an antique collection, except it is only a little over 20 years old. My second Shiloh is a Number 1, and has a higher grade of wood. The fit of wood to metal and metal to metal is the same as the Hartford, it is just a bit prettier.

Pretty does not help it shoot any better, and if anything, perhaps a bit worse, as I tend to baby it quite a bit more than the workhorse Hartford.

If you want a piece of furniture that can shoot, get the extra finishing, the better wood, the engraving and so on. It will be gorgeous.

You may suffer the same problem I have, and be afraid of damaging the beauty of the thing in use though.

I use the Hartford all the time, and it is developing a beauty of its own as it gets used.

[fouronesix]

Do the arithmetic and compare. I'd rather put the extra money into sights, reloading tools, reloading components, molds etc. The standard finish and wood on both Shiloh and C Sharps is perfectly fine and likely closer to what the originals had. After all, accurate shooting is what counts. Even my Shiloh with standard finish is just a little bit more glitzy than the originals, while my C Sharps is closer to an original. But then again, shiny and showy sells I guess.

[bigted]

thanks Don. I am leaning towards a 26 inch heavy [same contour as my 30 inch 45-120 currently on the rifle] in the 44-77 chamber as I really enjoy my 43 Spanish...[cousin to the 44-77 ... maybe brothers]... but the wait is on till I get some finances concluded.

I completely agree with the "glitz" thing. I purchased ... at a moment of weakness ... a Winchester 1886 1 of 1000 rifle and was petrified to even take it outta the house. finally traded it off for two "useable" rifles. I would rather put my cash on stuff that makes me smile at the target range but ... pretty is nice too I guess. I REALLY like my Hartford in the utilitarian good looks and shootability.

[XTR]

bigted, what kind of buttstock if under that lace up buttpad? I've got a C. Sharps that looks a lot like that with a military butt and have been wondering if something like that would work for it.

[country gent]

Im betting alot of both Shilohs, CPA, Ballard and C Sharps rifles are fired very little if ever. Most people that spend that much and get one are afraid of scratches dings and rust. I have seen them given as bonuses, retirement gifts, and presents several times. They are beautifull rifles and deserve to be used. I put a little of 2000 rounds thru my C Sharps Hepburn this past year. Its been going to the shillouette matches all summer along with load development and practice. Ive had several at the range ask if I really thought firing it was a good idea. Get what you want , enjoy it and besure and use it. They are beautiful and set of a room hanging on the wall but at the range is where they really show the quality.

[fouronesix]

bigted, what kind of buttstock if under that lace up buttpad? I've got a C. Sharps that looks a lot like that with a military butt and have been wondering if something like that would work for it.

Sorry I'm not bigted but use the same lace-on buttpad on a couple of different rifles. Those are lace-on types and available from BACO and maybe other sources. http://www.buffaloarms.com/Recoil_Pads_it-157935.aspx?CAT=4018

It comes with a gel insert that I take out as there's really no need for the squishy, squirmy insert anyway. I use them to "straighten" out the curved rifle plates.

For the rifle style plates, I remove the gel insert, carve a half moon insert out of thick leather to the fill the space of the curve in the plate. Use leather adhesive to attach the insert directly to the inside of the lace-on pad. Cinch the lace-on down tight to the butt and am good to go. That way it is a firm attachment and doesn't add a bunch of extra length of pull.

For a shotgun or military type plate you won't have to add a filler insert-- so the pad, as ordered, should fit right on the buttplate. You can keep or remove the gel insert as to your taste.

[XTR]

I really noticed with the metal butt plate when I set the rifle down. It's a really different feeling and you just know you're going to eventually dink up the butt plate. Not to mention the whole make it more comfortable to shoot thing.

[fouronesix]

Yep, I do it to all my more expensive or original guns if for no other reason than to protect the plate. If you are at all handy with leather (it's really not very difficult) you can add a lace-on DIY leather pad (cover) to any buttplate.

[bigted]

XTR ... like mentioned ... bought mine from Baco. they come in 4 different size to fit most butstocks. my rifle has a shotgun plastic plate but the reason I install them is for the extra length of pull. I am 6foot 5 inch tall with the extra length arm reach so that extra 1 inch does the trick on most rifles ... then there IS the comfort thing ... especially with that 120 [3 1/4 inch] case.

[XTR]

XTR ... like mentioned ... bought mine from Baco. they come in 4 different size to fit most butstocks. my rifle has a shotgun plastic plate but the reason I install them is for the extra length of pull. I am 6foot 5 inch tall with the extra length arm reach so that extra 1 inch does the trick on most rifles ... then there IS the comfort thing ... especially with that 120 [3 1/4 inch] case.

At 6'4" I need 37" sleeves, I can't imagine actually having a correct LOP. I'm getting one.

[bigted]

you will like it a LOT !!! and they don't look all that bad either. I usually get some black stain to "age" mine but not always.

[Lefty Red]

If I had one of those Hartfords and a good 22lr, I don't think I would desire another rifle as long as I lived............but I hope I get over it! :)

Lefty