Lead Build-up on Forcing Cone

[RikyRacr]

I shoot only cast boolits I make myself. I get little to no lead fouling in the bore of any of my handguns. I do, however, seem to get more lead build-up than I'd like on the forcing cone of my Ruger Blackhawk 45 Colt. The cylinder throat diameter is .4515"/.4520" and the barrel groove diameter is .451". All boolits are cast from Lyman #2ish alloy and sized to .452" and I use 45-45-10 tumble lube. The surface finish on the cone is kind of rough looking. Is it possible/advisable to polish the forcing cone? Would it even help? Is this something that should be done by a gunsmith only?
As you can see I have several questions pertaining to this. Thank you in advance for any tips, insight or information from your experience.

[KCSO]

The forcing cones on most guns today are very rough and carefull reaming and a good polish will work wonders.

[btreanor]

I'm tagging this thread- I have the same problem with my Ruger Bisley .45 ACP/LC.

[Cactus Farmer]

A light reaming with a GOOD sharp forcing cone reamer with a follow up of a brass lap and some lapping compound to slick it up. Brownells has the tools or find a smith that has them. This is an easy job if you have the tools.

[billsr]

I believe the Ruger's forcing cone is 5 degrees. Brownell's sells the forcing cone reamer. You have to make sure you don't open up the forcing cone too much, or you run the risk of losing accuracy. They also sell the gauge to show minimum/maximum opening of the forcing cone.

[detox]

I know the newer Ruger 357 revolvers are cut 5 degrees, but the 45 Long Colt Black Hawk is cut to a steeper 10 degrees. I would clean up and enlarge forcing cone slightly using the 10 or 11 degree cutter.

[str8shot426]

I recut and polished the forcing cone of my taurus 66 after setting back the barrel a turn. I get no leading in the cone, but have been fighting the thread crush area. Its not a hard job, but the tools are expensive.