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View Full Version : Modifying a 1917 Enfield Trigger



Ehaver
11-10-2013, 01:50 AM
I have a now very nice 1917, I like the feel of the trigger,weight and all, except for the travel lenght of the trigger. It just feels too long to me. I have looked at the Timmney triggers, and others, and I feel for the cost and worth are just not there. Does any one know of a way to eleminate the distance issue?

After looking at the aftermarket triggers, and seeing the adjustment points, I am fairly confidant that the trigger can be modified. I think that drilling and taping then installing a stud with a locking nut would allow for adjustment. The questiong is where exactly and if it is pratical and safe.

Thanks for any input!

andremajic
11-10-2013, 06:14 AM
Easiest way to adjust this would be to silver solder a shim above on the top of your trigger guard to limit the triggers travel.

Another option would be to drill and tap the top of the trigger guard and drill a hole in the shim so that you could adjust the shim to just the right location.

Benefits of the mod would be that it's not visible and doesn't alter the look of your trigger, and could also be removed at a later date, if desired.

Hardcast416taylor
11-10-2013, 02:23 PM
I`ve had 2 experiences with `17 Enfield triggers. The 1st is 1 I bought that it was obviously screwed up by someone trying to eliminate the 2 stage pull. The other was a friend that admitted that he had read an article on the correct way to do this process. His Enfields trigger was a write off. The way we got 2 corrected Enfield triggers again was to buy a Tiomney trigger for each and be happy with it.Robert

Ehaver
11-10-2013, 10:51 PM
dang. I was hoping for another solution. I do not think the shim would be effective in this case because of the two stage pull... I will probably just stay with the stock trigger

blixen
11-14-2013, 05:46 PM
Here's an idea I use when I tune milsurp Mauser triggers. Get some aluminum HVAC tape and cut and tape on layers to shim the trigger until you get the feel you want. It's temporary, of course, but you can find out what might work before you invest the time in soldering.

I've also used JB-weld or epoxy to glue a metal shim (or just an epoxy lump) that I can file to the right thickness by testing. If you use 5 minute epoxy--it comes off at a relatively low-temperature. If you use the regular or marine JB, it can be solid indefinitely!

BTW, I have a 1917 stock Enfield that has a long, but smooth let off. I may take my own advice on the alum. tape just to see if I can improve that.

andremajic
11-24-2013, 10:12 AM
Clarification; Soldering a shim is to limit the triggers travel front to back, not alter the sear height, although that could be done it wasn't what I was suggesting.

drhall762
11-24-2013, 03:23 PM
Just for clarification, are we talking about travel to the point the rifle fires or the over travel?

andremajic
11-25-2013, 04:56 PM
Just for clarification, are we talking about travel to the point the rifle fires or the over travel?

Trigger travel to the point the rifle fires.