Adhesive for metal inserts (but NOT bedding. they are sling swivel inserts)

[Whiterabbit]

Hi guys,

bought some flush mount swivels from Brownells for my rifle, am not sure the range of acceptable adhesives to glue this guy in place. Said it would come with instructions (come on, drill hole, put insert in flush, pat self on back), but it did not. I was counting on those to make recommendations for an adhesive.

I don't want to buy steel bed or bedding compound, seems like I shouldn't have to mail order something for simple swivels. On the other hand, I'm not sure I should trust industrial 3M CA glue (not available to the general public, company hookup, but its still an air-cure) or a general purpose epoxy.

Or should I?

http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/skus/t_593000038_1.jpg

[btroj]

If you use the sling for carry think of it this way- what do you trust to hold the weight of the rifle,all day, every day?

I would rough up the outside of that sucker and use a good epoxy.

[Whiterabbit]

I would rough up the outside of that sucker and use a good epoxy.

That's the plan. I started this thread to get recommendations for a good epoxy that is not Brownells sourced or steel bed (or bedding compound)

thanks!

[Whiterabbit]

I should try asking this way: why SHOULDNT I just go to Home Depot and buy whatever 2-part 3M epoxy they sell, anduse it? why SHOULDNT I just use JB weld?

[Dan Cash]

PC-7, looks like J-B Weld but has about 45 minutes working time at 70 degrees. Incredibly tough stuff from Ace, Do It Best or similar hardware stores.

[TJF1]

Brownells acra glass

[btroj]

I have a local source for Acraglass so it is what I would use.

I see no reason any good quality epoxy shouldn't work well. I don't think I would trust CA for this.

I think the big plus to Acraglass is the low shrinkage as it hardens, that isn't a huge factor for your use.

[country gent]

Another plus to accra glass gel is it can be colored to match the stock. making the bond line almost invisible if that matters to you. Make sure everything is roughened up good cleaned good and any epoxy should work. But most will leave a gray/black bond line.

[HK91]

I put those on a bolt action rifle I have. I used JB Weld and used a dental burr to ruff up the surface of the insert. I also used the dental burr to make the hole wider at the bottom so the epoxy would create a wedge under the wood. If you can, you may also want to warm up the wood so it will absorb more of the epoxy.

It has been about 5 years since I did my flush mount and no issues.

HK91

[Mk42gunner]

I should try asking this way: why SHOULDNT I just go to Home Depot and buy whatever 2-part 3M epoxy they sell, anduse it? why SHOULDNT I just use JB weld?

Depends on if any of it will be visible. Regular epoxy can be colored to almost match the color of the stock, I don't think J-B Weld or PC-7 can be colored.

With most epoxies, the slower the cure time the stronger the bond. I would not use the one minute (if they even market that anymore) or five minute epoxies for this.

One time several years ago I was in one of the semi-local farm stores and they had a bunch of epoxy in containers that looked just like various versions of accraglas, only with a different label and a lot cheaper. I do not remember what the brand name was, and I have not seen it again.

Robert

[Oreo]

Loctite brand makes a multi-metal epoxy that would be perfect for this based on my experience with the stuff. I've used it on car engine parts and its tough stuff. It's a 4-minute epoxy but you'll want to give it the full 24hrs to cure proper.

I'd also rough up the outside of those sling swivels with some 80 or 100 grit sand paper, then clean them in solvent or rubbing alcohol.

[Whiterabbit]

thanks guys. I looked at some datasheets on the 3M/Loctite website. Looks like CA based glues would work from a strength perspective, but poor chemical resistance, so they are all a no-go. Epoxies (in general) have all the toughness and adhesion I need. In general.

As is confirmed by the good folks in this thread. Big thanks.

Except for one thing. the plugs are blue steel. I was gonna color the epoxy black "to match". you guys are saying that's gonna leave a line?

[btroj]

If the epoxy and stud are both black it won't leave much of a line, it will mostly make the stud look bigger.

I would stain the epoxy to match either the wood or the stud and have at it. It is your rifle, make it meet your needs.

[Mk42gunner]

I'd call Brownell's and ask them for the instructions since they were supposed to be included. Every time I called them they were very helpful, even if the advice resulted in a no sale because what I wanted to do wouldn't work.

In my opinion, you want the steel part to look as if it grew out of the wood, be it the action or sling swivels. The way to accomplish this is careful inletting, or in this case use a smaller drill. I have never gotten the color to exactly match, it is always a shade or two off.

Robert

[Whiterabbit]

Thanks guys. I have several TAP plastics local, I ended up getting some epoxy dye from there to make the epoxy jet black. seems to work OK. Another AI complete.



I'd call Brownell's and ask them for the instructions since they were supposed to be included. Every time I called them they were very helpful, even if the advice resulted in a no sale because what I wanted to do wouldn't work.

It's funny, I often specifically mention the reason for asking for support is because I just bought or am about to buy a product so they know they are supporting a customer and not an information fisher, but you are right. Doesn't seem to make a difference, Brownells gives me great support either way.

[Oreo]

The loctite metal epoxy is naturally a dark gray. It wouldn't take much to make it jet-black.

[Whiterabbit]

that's the epoxy I used

[andremajic]

If you're looking for jet black epoxy, just add a small scoop of black powdercoat powder to the mix. (Super fine powder) Works perfect and cheap!