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evil5826
11-06-2013, 02:31 AM
I seem some pics where it looks like the bottom their bullets are covered after PC cure. How did you get that done? Every time Im done and remove the bullets from the tray, they stick and the coating comes off the bottom of the bullet.

Also does any one know a faster way of organizing them on a tray instead of placing each bullet on a tray one at a time? Wondering if any one had any cool ideas or mechanism.

Echd
11-06-2013, 09:30 AM
People getting that set their bullets up on small nuts or washers to provide clearance.

I don't know if it actually accomplishes anything. I don't coat bases.

bangerjim
11-06-2013, 12:29 PM
If you want to coat the bottoms, follow the ideas I have posted several times on here - an idea another member mentioned several months ago.

PC/bake your slugs base down as normal. Once cool, tap the base on a rag wetted with acetone. Then tap the wet base in a lid filled with a shallow layer of whatever color powder you want to use.

Bake again laying down.

Bingo......you have PC GC! Using different colors make it interesting. I do not normally coat bases. I use only Cu GC's on the slugs that are cast for them. Any subsonic slug does not need coating and is NOT coated using standard greasy lubes anyway. So why bother.

The PC should NOT come off your bases when you pick them up. The foil should tear because the layer you have applied is too thick and has adhered tightly to the foil. This applies to non-stick as well! You should end up with a small flash flange on the base that come off during sizing.

banger

evil5826
11-07-2013, 04:10 AM
I should of mentioned that I was doing the electrostatic powder coat method. Tin Foil may work out better rather then washers or nuts when performing this. Any other ideas with EPC. Not a real big fan on coating them twice but may not have a choice.

el34
11-07-2013, 10:03 PM
The suggestion is to use non-stick Reynolds Wrap foil (bangerjim's discovery) on top of nuts sitting or glued on the tray. The foil goes dull side up, you press it down around the nuts, I use a foam paint roller. The nuts (6-32 size) create little pedestals that break the contact between foil and the outer edge of the boolit base.

You can use the foil a second time, maybe a third before boolits start to stick to it. Then put on a new sheet.

bangerjim
11-07-2013, 10:12 PM
The suggestion is to use non-stick Reynolds Wrap foil (bangerjim's discovery) on top of nuts sitting or glued on the tray. The foil goes dull side up, you press it down around the nuts, I use a foam paint roller. The nuts (6-32 size) create little pedestals that break the contact between foil and the outer edge of the boolit base.

You can use the foil a second time, maybe a third before boolits start to stick to it. Then put on a new sheet.

Appreciate the kind accolades, el34, but I read about NS foil somewhere on here many months ago by some kind soul that posted the idea. It works great! I have played with many styles and iterations of it since then.

Thanks

banger

evil5826
11-08-2013, 06:25 PM
Thanks guys I appreciate your knowledge.

Balta
11-09-2013, 11:27 AM
I give up coating base of bullet.No real need it works well with base exposed,like an FMJ..If is want to coat the base only way i know is to flip em over and coat one more time :) Not helping i know..Hiere is some picture of my tray,this thred is missing some photo...
86970
86971
86972
86973

el34
11-09-2013, 01:02 PM
Balta- does the foil cover the screwheads? It looks like they poke through the foil. My first real attempt at a fixture used flathead screws but I finally tossed it, replacing it with glued-down 6-32 nuts covered by non-stick foil. I change the foil every 1-2 uses.

Problems I had-
1- Screwheads built up baked-on powder and boolits would stick hard to them. I had to use a tool to snap them off.

2- Nuts under the tray kept coming loose. I had to re-tighten before every use.

How is yours built? Did you drill and tap screw holes?

evil5826
11-09-2013, 02:56 PM
Nice work man. Think I am gonna copy your setup. But el34 did have a good question on the build up on the head of the screw. Wonder if some sort of chemical can be used to get it off? Also what did you do to get this screws to go in so straight?...Predrill a little?

Balta
11-10-2013, 11:00 AM
Foil do not cover screwheads,otherweays it will stick..Bullet cover screwhead so there is no powder buildup but you need to place a bullet straith over screwhead. when i notice a powder buildup its easy to replace that screw..I use, like you see in picture piece of woden table 1/2 inch thick and cutted to fit my oven tray.I frist hammer down the screws and then i use a screwdriver to tight em to desired depth,but to be firmly placed.Wire is there to provide conductvity and foil to protect wooden table and wire from powder buildup

sparky45
11-10-2013, 11:20 AM
I like the bullets to have a PC base as well, so I use the vibrating tumbler with pre-warmed bullets and vibrate them with PC and place head up on a foil covered tray. No acetone of Lacquer thinner or spray system. Kinda like "shake and bake".

Beagle333
11-10-2013, 11:27 AM
I like that jig, Balta! I bet it takes nerves of steel to move it into the oven without knocking over a boolit or two. ;)
I have been considering a wooden tray. It shouldn't smoke at 400 for 20 mins if foil wrapped. (I hope!!)[smilie=1:

bangerjim
11-10-2013, 12:37 PM
I give up coating base of bullet.No real need it works well with base exposed,like an FMJ..If is want to coat the base only way i know is to flip em over and coat one more time :) Not helping i know..Hiere is some picture of my tray,this thred is missing some photo...
86970
86971
86972
86973

I tried a couple trays like that several months ago and posted some pix with drywall screws down thru aluminum roof flashing and the screws do stay in place but I could not keep the boolits balanced on top of the heads long enough to get them in the oven. One slight bump going in and it was the domino effect! After 4 or 5 tries, I gave up, removed the screws and moved on.

The screw technique DOES work if you are coating HP's. I do not have any HP molds but have coated commercial HP slugs like that. Just put the HPs on the point and spray away.

I now have standardized on the good old N/S foil on Al flashing and just sit the boolits on the tray. I have found absolutely NO need to coat the bottoms for sub-sonic loads. I use Cu GC's for slugs cast for them.

Good luck and good shooting!

banger

waco
11-10-2013, 01:54 PM
When I get set up, I think I'll make some trays at work to fit my toaster oven, and then just weld the nuts to the tray. They will never move or come off.
Waco

el34
11-10-2013, 02:57 PM
When I get set up, I think I'll make some trays at work to fit my toaster oven, and then just weld the nuts to the tray. They will never move or come off.
Waco
When you use it, consider covering it with non-stick foil, otherwise the nuts WILL eventually get powder on them, making the boolits stick and possibly screwing up electrical conductivity. Put on a new sheet when boolits start sticking to the foil.

waco
11-10-2013, 04:03 PM
When you use it, consider covering it with non-stick foil, otherwise the nuts WILL eventually get powder on them, making the boolits stick and possibly screwing up electrical conductivity. Put on a new sheet when boolits start sticking to the foil.

copy that

Balta
11-10-2013, 04:12 PM
I like that jig, Balta! I bet it takes nerves of steel to move it into the oven without knocking over a boolit or two. ;)
I have been considering a wooden tray. It shouldn't smoke at 400 for 20 mins if foil wrapped. (I hope!!)[smilie=1:

Not realy,there ar resonable stable..9 mm round and about 6 mm screw head

bangerjim
11-10-2013, 08:09 PM
When I get set up, I think I'll make some trays at work to fit my toaster oven, and then just weld the nuts to the tray. They will never move or come off.
Waco


If you do make "trays" for your oven....and I hope it is a convection style...the best and ONLY style that really works......be sure you allow for air circulation inside around the layers of trays and from top to bottom, or you will get non-even heating and under-done boolits!


Ask me know i know!

banger

waco
11-10-2013, 09:29 PM
If you do make "trays" for your oven....and I hope it is a convection style...the best and ONLY style that really works......be sure you allow for air circulation inside around the layers of trays and from top to bottom, or you will get non-even heating and under-done boolits!


Ask me know i know!



banger
Will do!