Seating Dies for .38 spcl full wadcutter?

[CAROCON]

I'm not exactly sure if this is in the right place? But I bought an old mould at a gun show a few months ago (.38 spcl 148 gr. full wadcutter) for around $15.00. It's got two lube grooves, and I'm gathering from reading another post that I only want to lube one grove? Does it matter which groove? Also at the top of the bullet, I am getting a small raised amount of lead from excess pouring at the snapp, do I flip the bullet to load in casing? The bullet is perfect other than that. I got several 52's and a 1911 NM that only function with certain brands of ammo, which is hard to find now days and kind of pricey, so I thought I would try my hand at this. But my main question is that I haven't purchased any dies, what do you look for in a seating die for the full wadcutter? Is it special to get the lead below the opening of the casing? Any info would be greatly appreciated. thanks

[bobthenailer]

I have some RCBS dies and you can buy seperate boolet seating stems for the die for SWC ,RN & WC type bullets, im sure other brands do as well.

[CAROCON]

Thanks Bob...I hadn't seen anything that said a specific die stem was dedicated for a full wadcutter and like I said those mid-range guns are particular on what you feed in them. I noticed on my Dillon dies that they actually came with the flip stem system...just need to find the right one...thanks again.

[Hawkeye45]

I took an extra SWC sweater, filled with acraglass or JB weld, filed/sanded flat. Volia. Works for me.

Mr. Ed

[Airman Basic]

My old Lyman set came with all three seating stems. Looking at this, maybe they still do?
http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=000157680098

[1hole]

I've loaded a lot of cast wadcutter .38s and never felt any need for a dedicated seater plug. The sprue cut goes down. One lube groove is plenty if you use a good bullet lube and three aren't enough if you don't. Size your bullets no larger than .358". How deep you seat light revolver loads is irrelivant, how deep you seat for a M52 is determined by what it needs for reliable feeding/chambering.

[zxcvbob]

The sprue scar goes UP so you have a nice flat smooth base, but it's not a big deal either way. Any old seating plug should work; worst case is it makes a little circle on top of the bullet.

[Char-Gar]

I'm not exactly sure if this is in the right place? But I bought an old mould at a gun show a few months ago (.38 spcl 148 gr. full wadcutter) for around $15.00. It's got two lube grooves, and I'm gathering from reading another post that I only want to lube one grove? Does it matter which groove? Also at the top of the bullet, I am getting a small raised amount of lead from excess pouring at the snapp, do I flip the bullet to load in casing? The bullet is perfect other than that. I got several 52's and a 1911 NM that only function with certain brands of ammo, which is hard to find now days and kind of pricey, so I thought I would try my hand at this. But my main question is that I haven't purchased any dies, what do you look for in a seating die for the full wadcutter? Is it special to get the lead below the opening of the casing? Any info would be greatly appreciated. thanks

I really don't understand some of the stuff in your post. A picture of a cast bullet or at least the make and number of the mold will be a big help. Not all wadcutter bullets are the same.

I have a number of 38 Special dies and some came with WC seating plugs and some did not. I took one of the seating plugs and turned it flat in the lathe and use it for all SWC and WC bullets.

That is about the best I can do without more information about your bullet and some clarification of some of the items in your post.

What is a snapp?

"Is it special to get lead below the opening of the casing?" ????????

[bhn22]

Even round nose seaters will seat any wadcutter I have. Most guys simply use the flat nose seating punch for wadcutters & semi-wadcutters without incident. There are different types of nose designs on wadcutters, which bullet design is causing you all the grief?

[Firebricker]

I did the same thing Hawkeye45 did with an extra seating die but it is really not necessary. I'm guessing what you calling a snap is the sprue plate. I put the sprue up on my wadcutters that are double ended which I'm guessing you have but their are other variations. One lube groove is enough I don't think it really matter which one but some of the guys here probably have more knowledge about that. Use a good lube there are lube vendors here on site and lube recipes if you want to make your own. Let us know how if your making progress. FB

[CAROCON]

Thanks to everyone for all the great info and suggestions! Sorry about some of my terms, I meant sprue when I used snapp. Also, for the question about depth, the autos that shoot the .38 are finicky about what you feed them. I have yet to find a store bought reload that would function in them and that is probably because that 95% of the buyers are using them in revolvers where it isn't an issue. So basically you are left with match grade ammo to buy off the shelf, although last year I found some cheap Fiocchi that worked well. But anyway, I'll get me a set of dies this week and return later to share my story. Again, thanks for the help.

[jonk]

For Lee dies anyhow: remove the seating stem. Flip. Re insert upside down. Job done.

[bhn22]

Okay. I get it now. Any current production 38/357 reloading dies should have an appropriate seating stem, and yes, you do need to have your wadcutters seated flush with the case mouth for a S&W 52, and the bullet cannot have a button type nose, the nose must be flat. The dies should have a flat seating stem either in the seating die, or as an accessory. You can lube one or both lube grooves in your bullet, I'd probably fill both to start, then try backing off one later if accuracy isn't what you need.