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Randy C
11-01-2013, 06:43 AM
Do you think core bonding would let me shoot my 243wssm with 22 jackets above 3000 ft sec and help them retain there integrity along with accuracy?

Reload3006
11-01-2013, 07:34 AM
Good question. Wish I had an answer for you. But I dont think you will hurt your rifle any to try it out. load up 10 or 20 and see if you hit a target at 100 no holes probably your boolits are coming apart.

Lizard333
11-01-2013, 02:16 PM
I don't think the FPS is your problem. I just got a ragged hole with my 224's out my 22-250 at 3850 FPS at 100 yards. So speed isn't the problem with 22's as jackets.

Smokin7mm
11-01-2013, 02:30 PM
It is a combination of speed and twist. If it is a fast twist it tends to really stress the bullets and they come apart.

Bret

fredj338
11-01-2013, 03:23 PM
In my limited swaging & shooting of my 22lr/223, I found vel isn't a big deal but twist rate can be. mot of the time it seems to be a flaw in the bullet jacket; slightly folded nose or small tear in the jacket, that causes the bullet to come apart. I tested my first ones in my friends 27" 1-12 Savage @ 3150fps, no problem. Then switching to my 20" 1-8 ar, I lost a couple bullets @ only 3000fps. A bonded core may or may not have helped. So the question is what is the easiest way to bond a core? I would think heating a seated core?

clodhopper
11-01-2013, 03:30 PM
I did not get any improvement with 1-8 twist 6mm creedmore and bonded 22 mag jackets. Over unbonded 22 mag jackets.
I did get very good results with J4 jackets in the same rifle.

supe47
11-01-2013, 04:34 PM
3150 fps with a 1-12" = 189,000 rpm, 3000 fps in a 1-8" = 270,000 rpm. I've spun a 51 grainers 280,000 rpm but they weren't happy. Yesterday I was losing 60 and 69 grainers at 3150 fps (252,000 rpm). Bullet length and rpm seems to be a factor. Launched a 55 grainer out of my 22-250 at 3950 fps (1-12", 237,000 rpm) yesterday and it did make it to the target. Barrel of my 22-250 is shot out and have to wait on new barrel for accuracy tests. I have some Corbin jackets. That might be my next test. So much testing, so little time.

SquirrelHollow
11-03-2013, 03:55 PM
Supe47's experience is right in line with my own (.224" and .243" bullets) ... but I used commercial bullets almost exclusively. The "butter zone" is about 175,000-225,000 rpm. Anything over 275,000 rpm is risking bullet failure. Going beyond 300,000 rpm is, most often, a death sentence.
Obviously, light-jacketed bullets won't hold up as well as their thicker-jacketed commercial counterparts, and should be throttled back a bit.

Those rpm figures are the very reason high velocity cartridges use slower twist rates than their lower velocity counterparts of the same caliber. 'Extra' velocity makes up for the slower twist rate, and keeps the bullets in roughly the same rpm window.

Randy C
11-06-2013, 10:47 PM
So the question is what is the easiest way to bond a core? I would think heating a seated core?
Thanks
I was working to much to get back to the computer this is a good question.

MarkP
11-06-2013, 11:10 PM
Flux the ID and melt the lead with a torch, cool and form in profile die.

Randy C
11-06-2013, 11:17 PM
That sounds easy enough I will get back tomorrow I'm tired.
Thanks again.

Hickory
11-07-2013, 01:39 AM
Do you think core bonding would let me shoot my 243wssm with 22 jackets above 3000 ft sec and help them retain there integrity along with accuracy?

Short answer, NO.
I have tried it many different fluxes. Many times, with thousands of bullets. Accuracy will suffer.
Acid flux is no good, bubbles too much and will cause air pockets. No matter how little is used. Flux used for electronics is not much better.
After fluxing, and melting the lead core, the core needs to be reseated in the jacket.
Because the core is now bonded to the jacket and the strength of the jacket compromised, So, when it is reseated, the bearing surface of the bullet may start to collapse on it's self. This is made evident by rings around the shank of the bullet.
When the ojive or nose of the is put on, the shank or bearing surface of the bullet will collapse even more. This is using 22 rimfire cases and j4 jackets.
I never got any benefit from bonding core to jacket.

Reload3006
11-07-2013, 08:35 AM
The only time I bond cores is for a hunting bullet. and I always seat the core after bonding to expand the jacket. I have not had accuracy issues by doing this but I have a bullet that has better expansion control. I have not bonded .224 bullets or .243 only .308s. I only started doing that because non boded were to "explosive" and damaged too much meat. From my experience. Yours may be different.

Randy C
11-07-2013, 12:03 PM
I wish I had time to go to town I would buy a chronograph to check my I'm bullet speed I can use quick load for a reference. I have 3 days off plumber comes buy to day to do bathroom, Deer season starts tomorrow at noon, and some one from work wants to come by Saturday and check the sights one his 270wsm.
Thanks
RC

Lizard333
11-07-2013, 10:18 PM
All my bullets they I core bond, no flux is needed. Your lead will bond to the brass without any flux. Why rusk contaminating your dies with anything that might compromise them.

I believe Reloader3006 had something happen along those lines.....Nothing like having an expensive die end up with rust. No thanks.

Reload3006
11-08-2013, 09:24 AM
Yes indeed if you bond your cores and use a flux make sure and I mean doubly sure you scrub your dies and punches clean because you will rust the die and punches beyond recognition over night. a little soap and water works great then a douche with LPS or WD40 will keep them from rusting but make sure you take care of business don't even think you can let it sit overnight or you will be sorry.

Randy C
11-08-2013, 11:30 AM
Thanks
Its windy cold and raining Deer season starts at noon My dads brother gave me this gun It has no been shot in 30 years I cleaned it. The scope is covered in dust I 'm not sure how to clean it I don't think I'm going to make opening day shoot.
custom made 270w / Mouser action
86869 86894

86895

SquirrelHollow
11-08-2013, 04:44 PM
Blow it out with compressed air. Then, use a very soft-bristled brush to gently remove what you can.
Then, go to a traditional lense cleaning cloth or "lens pen".

Randy C
11-08-2013, 05:06 PM
That worked great, I called and he said that the scope had never been sighted in, I snugged it up and it shoots great, I tested the old Marlin 30 30 he gave me it shoots good to, I used the ammo that come with the guns.