sprue plate

[Alberta Separatist]

I've had to replace my sprue cutter plate twice on my lyman 225415 mould in the last 4 - 5 years.... granted, I've cast several thosand boolits during that time ( 4 - 5 thousand ) but was wondering if anyone using the RCBS .22 - 55 gr. mould with their thicker sprue plate has had the same issue?

[montana_charlie]

I've had to replace my sprue cutter plate twice on my lyman 225415 mould in the last 4 - 5 years.... granted, I've cast several thosand boolits during that time ( 4 - 5 thousand ) but was wondering if anyone using the RCBS .22 - 55 gr. mould with their thicker sprue plate has had the same issue?
What was the issue?
What changed which necessitated replacement?

[runfiverun]

ditto charlies questions.
4-5 thousand boolits is barely enough to break in a mold.

[cbrick]

Curious what it is your doing to the sprue plate, I have molds that I've had for decades and nothing wrong with the sprue plates.

I do have the RCBS 22 55, both the new version and the decades old version, nothing wrong with either plate.

Are you beating them open? Some more info would be helpful.

Rick

[Alberta Separatist]

What was the issue?
What changed which necessitated replacement?

my boolits were developing burrs on the base, which had to be filed down.
Alloy is hard; 80% wheel weights; 18% linotype; 2% tin.

[btroj]

I wasn't aware of the fact that sprue plates wore out. Whodathunkit?

Sounds like something other than normal wear.

[leadman]

Did you install the new thicker Lyman sprue plate previously? They sell a kit with the screws and stuff. Called a mold rebuild kit.
I have bent a few of the thin Lyman sprue plates myself wacking them when the mold was too cold. The new plates don't seem to bend as easy.
I think Midway sells these kits also.

[Alberta Separatist]

Did you install the new thicker Lyman sprue plate previously? They sell a kit with the screws and stuff. Called a mold rebuild kit.
I have bent a few of the thin Lyman sprue plates myself wacking them when the mold was too cold. The new plates don't seem to bend as easy.
I think Midway sells these kits also.

The sprue plates that I installed are identical to the original plate; was not aware the newer plates are thicker.

[Alberta Separatist]

Curious what it is your doing to the sprue plate, I have molds that I've had for decades and nothing wrong with the sprue plates.

I do have the RCBS 22 55, both the new version and the decades old version, nothing wrong with either plate.

Are you beating them open? Some more info would be helpful.

Rick

yes; I use a 1 " wooden dowel and give a reasonable " smack "

[Tim357]

yes; I use a 1 " wooden dowel and give a reasonable " smack "

Or use a rawhide mallet. Absolutely will not harm a sprue plate.

[462]

Using a gloved hand (thumb) for sure won't damage a sprue cutter -- there's just no sense in banging on it.

Your description of "...burrs on the base, which had to be filed down..." sounds like the cutter is too loose.

[cbrick]

Using a gloved hand (thumb) for sure won't damage a sprue cutter -- there's just no sense in banging on it.

Absolutely! If your mold is up to proper casting temp a gloved hand will easily swing the plate open. Only if the mold is too cool and the alloy is set up too hard will it need to be tapped open.

A picture of "burs on the base" would be very helpful but yes, it sounds like a combination of the alloy set up too quickly and a slightly loose sprue plate.

Rick

[bhn22]

When you hit a plate with a stick, there are two ways it can go. If you angle your stick upwards, you can bend the plate upwards slightly. This can cause your bases to develop "fins" or, as some of the old guys used to call them "flanges". If you angle the stick downwards, you're unlikely to bend the plate, but I did notice some scuffing on the top of the mold blocks back when I beat my molds with a stick too. The best solution is as noted above, break the sprue by hand while wearing heavy gloves. It's easily done once everything is at normal casting temps, even on four cavity molds.

[Oreo]

Gloved hand on a 4cav you say? I wish I could learn that trick. I get my Miha molds dropping excellent boolits but there is only a quarter second window of time when the sprues can be opened by hand and I just can't get that precise of a rhythm.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

The critical matter is to directly push or whack the sprue plate without applying force at an angle up or down. Sheesh!

BvT

[captaint]

Oreo - Once a mold is up to temp, there's no reason to use anything other than a gloved hand to open it. Watch the sprues - when they change color and that little dimple sucks down, open it then with the gloved hand. We can wait a little longer and it won't matter. Try it... Mike

[cbrick]

Gloved hand on a 4cav you say? I wish I could learn that trick. I get my Miha molds dropping excellent boolits but there is only a quarter second window of time when the sprues can be opened by hand and I just can't get that precise of a rhythm.

Yep, even 6 cavs. Sounds like you need just a bit higher "MOLD" temp. Not pot temp but mold temp, pouring an extra large sprue puddle could help by adding extra "heat" to the plate.

Rick

[bhn22]

It'll also give you the smoothest bullet bases you've ever seen. No nubs at all. For the bigger molds you need to give the sprue plate a little "pop" sometimes. It does work however.

[Mugs]

Adjust the sprue plate where it will just swing open when you tip the mold. Watch the color of the sprue to change, open with a gloved hand.
Mugs

[theperfessor]

Using a good mold lube such as Bullplate allows you to cut the sprues while they are almost still molten and not get lead smears on the top of the mold. A good one-two-three count for the sprues to freeze shows the mold is at the right temperature and so is alloy. Plenty of time to push open sprue plate with gloved thumb.

[deltaenterprizes]

Way too much tin in your alloy, the WW & Lino is plenty enough tin.
I do not think that is the source of your problem, just an observation

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Sprue cutters or plates as some call them do not usually wear out or need to be replaced. They can however be abused and that can lead to various problems. They should not be over-tightened or allowed to have "slop" in their functioning. They should sit flat on the blocks and if the mold is tilted they should swing free of their own weight. Their job of cutting the sprue can be achieved by applying force with the hand, a wooden dowel, or a mallet made of wood, rawhide, or plastic. Never a metal object should be used to strike the plate. I have made and used sprue cutters fashioned from various thicknesses of aluminum; they have worked well and lasted a long time when treated accordingly. Reference article done in the old NRA Handloading Book that was titled "Aluminum Sprueplate Rated High". LLS

[Alberta Separatist]

Using a good mold lube such as Bullplate allows you to cut the sprues while they are almost still molten and not get lead smears on the top of the mold. A good one-two-three count for the sprues to freeze shows the mold is at the right temperature and so is alloy. Plenty of time to push open sprue plate with gloved thumb.

I have a hollow point mould, so I need to remove the pin before opening the plate; by then alloy is hard and just will not open with a gloved hand.... yes, I also use bullplate, an excellant product.

[theperfessor]

My only hollow point molds have captive pins in a Cramer or modified Cramer style, I don't have that two step motion to deal with. I'm curious, why do you have to take out the pin before cutting the sprue?

[Alberta Separatist]

My only hollow point molds have captive pins in a Cramer or modified Cramer style, I don't have that two step motion to deal with. I'm curious, why do you have to take out the pin before cutting the sprue?



just habit; started with a .357 mould many years ago and just contined on with the .22 mould.

Alloy for the .22 mould is a lot harder than the handgun alloy.... should try opening sprue plate with hollow point pin intact.

thanks!