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badguybuster
10-30-2013, 07:21 PM
We I have made a few batches of the piggy version powder coated boolits and they look like **** BUT I whacked them with an 8 pound sledge on my shoeing anvil and non of the costing came off. So im assuming I did it properly. I made them for subsonics but how much faster can I go? I was loading them for about 1,000fps out of my 300 blkout.

badguybuster
10-30-2013, 07:21 PM
Safely....is a word I shouldve added there. ;-)

Echd
10-30-2013, 07:48 PM
I don't know about piglet method, but properly applied and baked with ES you can push jacketed velocities. Many here are shooting up at .308/.223 velocities, and I've had good success with around 2400-2500 in rifle and 1800+ in pistol.

Beagle333
10-30-2013, 07:57 PM
My first batch of Piglet looked plumb ugly too.... but they shot great at 1300+ out of my .357
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/PC002_zps75333e58.jpg


I got better at Piglet, but the uglier ones still shot just as good.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt214/shutupandjump/PowderCoating/tb2005_zpsc7739a5b.jpg


I will still use Piglet and Rangefinder methods when the weather won't let me spray my powder. ('got no garage here:oops: )

HiVelocity
10-31-2013, 09:21 AM
Green Zombie eradicators.

I have some powder coming too, fluorescent lime green. Going to try the tumble method first.

HV

donhuff
10-31-2013, 09:59 AM
I've been having pretty good luck with the HF ES gun method, but yesterday I tried the piglet method. First I tried using urethane reducer (for base coat clear coat car paint) cause I am out of lacquer thinner at the moment. It looked ok at first but took forever to dry and the powder did not stick to the bullets at all. But then I tried using some nitro-methane and boy what a difference. The powder, HF red, dissolved immediately and made a thick snot like substance which coated the bullets very well. It evaporated pretty quick so, as they were still a little wet I poured them out on some screen wire to finish drying. I went off to do something else and when I returned they were dry enough that I could stand them up and not get paint on my fingers. I stood some up and left others on there side on the screen and put them in the oven. The two on the right were done with the ES gun.85925

GWL
10-31-2013, 03:27 PM
Where did you get the nitro-methane ? John Force's fuel jug----

donhuff
10-31-2013, 05:16 PM
I hate John Force! My favorite Fuel funny car driver was Al Hoffman. So much more of a man than John F***. Nitro funny car is my SECOND favorite drag car. The dragsters are the best to me. But I don't have a real favorite driver, except maybe Antron Brown, cause he races model boats too. Del Worsham is my favorite funny car driver now days......but Courtney Force aint ugly by no means!!!!!

I race remote control model boats. Mostly do gasoline powered these days, but I still have a little nitro left over in a drum under the bench.....just in case!!!!
Actually the nitro methane will not mix with gasoline, (but nitro-ethane will...shhhhhhh) but I do still run glow engines once in a while, boats and airplanes. And back in the mid-late 80s, we ran a lot of nitro powered boats, and the only way to know what was in your fuel, was to mix it yourself. I liked 50 percent (by volume) of nitro and 20 percent oil ( half synthetic and half CASTOR) for "NORMAL" heat racing, then if you aint got a chance in hail at winning........it's time for a show!!! That's when we would bring out the 75% nitro 20 oil and the rest is propylene oxide, to make the nitro ignite! NOW.... IT'S A PARTY. With "store bought" fuel, you never knew what you were getting, and we burned up a lot of engines with that stuff. So that made me start mixing my own.

BUT ANYWAY, what got me thinking about the nitro is that it's main purpose in life these days is because it is a very good plastics solvent. If not for that, it would probably not exist any more as it is really hard to make. The little bit that is used for racing and models does not account for 1% of the market. But now it will melt plastic (ie polyester... like powder coat) extremely well.

I noticed in all the pic that I saw on here, that the powder seemed to just clump up in the normal solvents. So I gave the nitro a try and the powder melted into a liquid almost instantly and turns into like a thick paint.

in the pic the ones on the left are one coat and the ones on the right are two coats
ATTACH=CONFIG]85977[/ATTACH]

donhuff
10-31-2013, 05:26 PM
It's a PARTY!!!!!

85984

w0fms
10-31-2013, 05:26 PM
I've been having pretty good luck with the HF ES gun method, but yesterday I tried the piglet method. The two on the right were done with the ES gun.

I'm not trying to sound like an a$$ here, but the two on the right look a lot better. Even at a distance not focusing on the picture! Take a 25% off coupon and wait for a sale, pick up the HF gun. You'll start using it for anything that can withstand 400°F cure temps instead of painting. Trust me on this. It's a GREAT Toy.

Now, I've done a lot of these ES PC'ed.. but sadly I've not yet worked up loads. Does everyone here find that the PC lead is more similar to a worked up load for copper jacketed, or is it more like TL'ed lead, or somewhere in between. For 45 ACP I'm not that worried. I'm a little nervous for 380 ACP and 9mm though. Especially 380 since there is such a narrow safe range for that cartridge. I'm using the lee 102 gr-1R and W231. I'm debating if I want to load in the 3.0 gr range that works so well with similar Berry's plated or drop down to 2.6-2.7 gr.

What is the consensus opinion on that? Thanks in advance.

Smoke4320
10-31-2013, 05:47 PM
45 ACP I load the same jacketed
9MM using 358 sized loading same as jacketed ..sized 356 and I get leading
45-70 getting 1600 FPS with a 300 Grain
308 up to 1980 FPS 150 grain so far no leading and slowly working up faster

Echd
10-31-2013, 08:10 PM
I haven't had any problems treating a PC'd bullet as jacketed so far as load data is concerned. I don't touch max data, though- no need or interest, really, but some of mine are on "up there".

w0fms
11-01-2013, 04:22 PM
Okay thanks. I size 9mm and 380 at .357 btw as that's the only sizer I've had. With 45/45/10 I had a small amount of leading that went away with also adding a little homemade lube by hand (pain!) to the lube grooves. So I suspect PC will do me good on that. I've not done cast yet in 380 but am planning on starting with PC. Thanks for the advice.

waco
11-03-2013, 03:35 AM
sorry. those are some fuggly boolits.....just sayin......

w0fms
11-11-2013, 04:46 PM
Hey.. FWIW, the Lee 356-102-1R's ES PC'ed with black HF and sized to .357 seemed to be roughly the same OOMPH as Berry's FBRN 100 gr 0.356" 100gr "copper plated" at 5% less powder when used with W231 which is my go to 380 Powder (thanks to Freakshow10mm who has given us better data than any of the load manuals).

So for the less stout 380's, I'm going to say that 2.9 gr W231 over a Lee 102-1R Harbor Freight black, .357 sized is "good", and 3.0 for more stout loads. I will chrono the next time out... I started at 2.7gr and went to 3.1gr -- all functioned and seemed "safe".

3.0-3.2gr W231 is the same oomph load for the Berry's, 3.2 at 0.965" (LCP) or 0.980" is the "Freakshow10mm" load that is so well loved. To make the bases even with the 0.980" Berry's I set my Lee 356-102-1R's at 0.974" which seemed to function well.

I just bought the Lyman manual and 2.7-3.1gr W231 is the suggested load for the Lee with their lubrisizer too, so I suppose I guessed well... so I don't know if I'd go quite jacketed load with the HF PC, but 5-10% reduction seems more than ok at least with 380 ACP.

9mm or 45 is next. No leading or PC "fouling" whatsoever, either. As accurate as factory, too. I'm really happy.

Figured I'd pass that along.. those were my first actual shot ES PC'ed boolits...

el34
11-12-2013, 12:28 AM
3.0-3.2gr W231 is the same oomph load for the Berry's, 3.2 at 0.965" (LCP) or 0.980" is the "Freakshow10mm" load that is so well loved. To make the bases even with the 0.980" Berry's I set my Lee 356-102-1R's at 0.974" which seemed to function well.

Figured I'd pass that along.. those were my first actual shot ES PC'ed boolits...

Thank you. I cast 500 of those, tumble lubed, sized and loaded 100 with 2.7gr HP38. Haven't shot them. Then I got into PC and coated the rest but haven't loaded them. I really appreciate your post, it'll help me load them raspberry colored pills for my little Bersa. I want them full strength. I'll be very interested in your chrono experiment, I don't have one and if I did I can't walk out in the backyard to test ammo.

w0fms
11-12-2013, 07:39 PM
Yeah. I didn't have the time to set the chrono up because I did it at the range after the kids had YHEC (at the range) so I had like 45 minutes of sun light left.

2.7gr HP-38 (which by all accounts is the same as W231, but I've never seen HP-38 in person and W231 used to be readily available from a couple of local sources) should cycle the Bersa fine, but I bet you'd like 2.9-3.1 gr even better since that's a "substantial" frame 380. All 2.7-3.1 gr loads worked in two substantially different firearms. One "substantial" and one popular "CCW" type. (I don't like to post specifics on-line)

I cast about 250 of them, and went through about 40 of them before it got dark, from 2.7 to 3.1gr in 0.1 gr increments. 3.0 and 3.1 seemed like factory Remington to me in a subjective side by side. 2.9 was nicer to practice with.

Hopefully next time I go out I'll have time to chronograph. If I'm lucky it will be before Christmas! ;) I can shoot in my back yard, but until I get a positive back stop made up (hopefully next spring), I only shoot at a local outdoor range.

el34
11-13-2013, 10:37 PM
I cast about 250 of them, and went through about 40 of them before it got dark, from 2.7 to 3.1gr in 0.1 gr increments. 3.0 and 3.1 seemed like factory Remington to me in a subjective side by side. 2.9 was nicer to practice with.


Thanks again w0, that is very timely info for me. I have a bunch of PC'd just waitin' to be turned into finished product. An expedited path to a final load will help a lot.

Garyshome
11-13-2013, 10:44 PM
PC'n takes a long time, It will have to wait till I use up my lead pile. Well most of it anyway. Then when the rifle boolits come out we'll start again.

coffeeguy
11-17-2013, 06:12 PM
I've found that in 9mm, I can push them just as fast as jacketed loads with no leading. The main advantages of powdercoating, besides purty boolits, are very little smoke when compared to LLA and being able to push to faster velocities. I alternate between Piglet-ized bullets and TES's method (using a 3:1 to 1:1 ratio of acetone to PC and dripping the mixture onto the boolits, letting dry, then baking) which gives a nice smooth coat. 877948779587796

First photo is boolits right after coating and drying. Second is after baking...the coating is translucent, but there's enough of the polyester base of the powdercoat dissolved in the acetone that it coats the boolits thick enough to do the job. Last photo is results from shooting 15 rounds offhand at 10 yards, this is about as well as I do with jacketed bullets and I don't see any deterioration in accuracy. 100 rounds total, loaded to jacketed velocity, no leading.