Just ordered a pound of powder

[MBTcustom]

And I'm looking for a toaster oven. :drinks:
Just spent a few hours yesterday with grrifles, a buddy of mine across town and he showed me how dirt simple and easy the powdercoating thing is, so I just went and ordered a pound of 20% gloss black from Powder By The Pound.
I don't understand why it costs $11.30 to ship a pound of powder, but oh well! $25.50 delivered will coat a passel of boolits, and I may not need a GC.
I'm going to see if I can get this going for my M1A. I need something I can make a gob of in a hurry because this rifle eats components like crazy.
It's like a giant 10/22.
I'm hoping that I can get it to cycle with 168gr 311466, LC brass, and Winchester 748.
Fingers crossed!

[frankenfab]

You posted about powder in the boolet lube section. Are you upset and looking for an oven to stick your head in because of the price of the powder and shipping?[smilie=b:[smilie=b::veryconfu

Is everything ok?

[Garyshome]

Good will store for the oven!

[Echd]

You posted about powder in the boolet lube section. Are you upset and looking for an oven to stick your head in because of the price of the powder and shipping?[smilie=b:[smilie=b::veryconfu

Is everything ok?

I think you're thinking of a different kind of powder!

Walmart has decent small toaster ovens for $20 or so, but if you're willing to spend a little more, get one that can take two racks and double your production!

[xacex]

Welcome to the madness Goodsteel! If you have a flash hider or brake on that gun you may want to switch to a thread protector. I have found that even with powder coat lead may peel of in them. Accuracy was affected for me until I removed the flash hider, and noticed the P/C and lead build up at the muzzle. You have a mill for doing gunsmith work right? You could probably open one up a little too to give a little more clearance. The Beowulf I put together has a pepper pot brake I put on it, but it has so much clearance that it is a non-issue( like a 1/8" of an inch all around at the muzzle end). Not very good for a brake, but...

[MBTcustom]

You posted about powder in the boolet lube section. Are you upset and looking for an oven to stick your head in because of the price of the powder and shipping?[smilie=b:[smilie=b::veryconfu

Is everything ok?

Speaking of buddies I need to spend a few hours with...LOL!


Yes, I posted about powder in the boolit lube section. Apparently it's the progressive thing to do these days, and soon I will be sporting a koolaid mustache.

[Love Life]

November is coming up so a mustache is appropriate.

[MBTcustom]

Welcome to the madness Goodsteel! If you have a flash hider or brake on that gun you may want to switch to a thread protector. I have found that even with powder coat lead may peel of in them. Accuracy was affected for me until I removed the flash hider, and noticed the P/C and lead build up at the muzzle. You have a mill for doing gunsmith work right? You could probably open one up a little too to give a little more clearance. The Beowulf I put together has a pepper pot brake I put on it, but it has so much clearance that it is a non-issue( like a 1/8" of an inch all around at the muzzle end). Not very good for a brake, but...

A "mill"? What's that? Is that kind of like that lathe thingy I keep hearing about?
Are you suggesting I modify my rifle? I don't know, that makes me kind of nervous. LOL!

[bangerjim]

Tim, Buy your powder and you ES gun at Harbor Freight! The matte black, red, white, and yellow (it's crapola) are ONLY ~$5.50/pound. They have stores everywhere! That stuff from that mail order house is the Frito Bandito in action!


I use HF matte black exclusively and coat 223/30/9/38/357/40/45LC all the time with PERFECT success. At that HF price, you do not need to worry about trying to catch the little that gets away when you spray.

banger

ps. how'd those soldiers work out for your?????????????????

[fishnbob]

Are you talking about Powder Coat Paint? If so, you can get that from Harbor Freight for a few bucks and take it with you, no shipping.

[MBTcustom]

Tim, Buy your powder and you ES gun at Harbor Freight! The matte black, red, white, and yellow (it's crapola) are ONLY ~$5.50/pound. They have stores everywhere! That stuff from that mail order house is the Frito Bandito in action!


I use HF matte black exclusively and coat 223/30/9/38/357/40/45LC all the time with PERFECT success. At that HF price, you do not need to worry about trying to catch the little that gets away when you spray.

banger

ps. how'd those soldiers work out for your?????????????????

I've got them lined up on the shelf above my computer desk. My daughter asked me what they were, and I told her they were very special, and she wasn't to play with them. LOL!

Now, I have read that the HF stuff is finicky, and I'm going to be going the shake and bake rout. The gun is too much fuss for me to worry with. I want 'em coated by the hundreds and I want em done in a few minutes.
If it takes any more effort or expense than that, then I don't want to change from good 'ol GG GC method.
The thing is, my buddy has been using them just like described above (shake n bake) and he is getting superb results. He coated a bunch for me, and I'm going to try 'em out.
If it turns out that I need a GC, then I'll probably forget the whole thing, but if I can make 'em work PB, then I do believe this puppy just found a new bone!

[bangerjim]

I've got them lined up on the shelf above my computer desk. My daughter asked me what they were, and I told her they were very special, and she wasn't to play with them. LOL!

Now, I have read that the HF stuff is finicky, and I'm going to be going the shake and bake rout. The gun is too much fuss for me to worry with. I want 'em coated by the hundreds and I want em done in a few minutes.
If it takes any more effort or expense than that, then I don't want to change from good 'ol GG GC method.
The thing is, my buddy has been using them just like described above (shake n bake) and he is getting superb results. He coated a bunch for me, and I'm going to try 'em out.
If it turns out that I need a GC, then I'll probably forget the whole thing, but if I can make 'em work PB, then I do believe this puppy just found a new bone!


Glad you/she enjoys them! [smilie=w:

A lot of guys (and gals) on here use the shake-n-bake liquid dissolving method with great success. I have tried it (and all other methods as well) and just could not get the liquid methods to stick/mix or give me the quality and finish I was after. So I standardized on the gun. I can sit-up/spray/bake about 400 30/45's in 25-30 minutes just sitting them on N/S foil. That is fast enough for my needs.

Good luck! Post a pic of your coating results.....would like to see how that color from them works.

banger

[popper]

Yea, the 308 AR goes through 20 rnd mags like crazy when you are having fun. Got to find an end to the powder/primer problem or slow down. Your friend have any results to post?

[xacex]

A "mill"? What's that? Is that kind of like that lathe thingy I keep hearing about?
Are you suggesting I modify my rifle? I don't know, that makes me kind of nervous. LOL!

Oh, come on, you know what it takes. Mill, lathe thingy, what ever works for ya, or what ever you got in the shop. Modification is fun! I don't have any of those fancy tools so I just use a thread protector on the 300 Blackout that I had an issue with.

Can I talk you out of the shake and bake?

[MBTcustom]

Oh, come on, you know what it takes. Mill, lathe thingy, what ever works for ya, or what ever you got in the shop. Modification is fun! I don't have any of those fancy tools so I just use a thread protector on the 300 Blackout that I had an issue with.

Can I talk you out of the shake and bake?

I was kidding. I'm a professional gunsmith.

As far as the spray gun goes, give it your best shot.

[geargnasher]

See, Tim? You take "Malcolm Ballistic Tool" out of your sig line and nobody knows who you are any more! :kidding:

Way I read it, Xacex was pulling your leg first.

Gear

[Mike Hughes]

Oh, come on, you know what it takes. Mill, lathe thingy, what ever works for ya, or what ever you got in the shop. Modification is fun! I don't have any of those fancy tools so I just use a thread protector on the 300 Blackout that I had an issue with.

Can I talk you out of the shake and bake?
Xacex, I recently opened up one of my flash hiders with my el cheapo drill press. The FH drilled out very easy (really soft steel). The FH was a DPMS from Midway, I don't know if they are all so soft

[xacex]

See, Tim? You take "Malcolm Ballistic Tool" out of your sig line and nobody knows who you are any more! :kidding:

Way I read it, Xacex was pulling your leg first.

Gear

:bigsmyl2: I know what Goodsteel does. Read about the whole process he went through with great interest.I am glad we have a resident smith on the board that I can pick on when I come up with a problem. Mike, I noticed the same thing with one of my flash hiders. Real soft steel.

Goodsteel, I tried all the methods so you don't have to, unless you really wanted to. For rifle rounds you will not get the consistency you will need. Plus, they just look ugly, take more time to coat, and get that messy goo all over. The gun is not a huge expense, and I know you have the stuff there to make a quick jig. Here, take a look at these and tell me you want boolits that look like they have a coat of smeared booger on them.
85713

Having a gun around wont hurt. I am sure you will find other uses for it.

[MBTcustom]

Having a gun around wont hurt. I am sure you will find other uses for it.

Makes a dandy boat paddle or tomater stake in a pinch! LOL!

OK, so how consistent does it need to be? (assuming I don't care at all what the boolits look like)
Gorgeous projectiles you got up there BTW!

Also, another reason I wanted to go with tumble coating the boolits was the fact that I have high end rifles in my shop. It won't do to have paint powder floating around everywhere. I was going to do all this stuff out in the buffing shed where I don't care if dust gets on stuff, but spraying the powder seems like a mess and a half. No?

[Echd]

How consistent it NEEDS to be, I don't know.

But the ES method is very easy, fast, and is obviously (just by looking at it!) more consistent in application, and ES PC is known to provide an extremely even coating of very small thickness.

Using these puppies today my 12" Contender in .44 shot 5 shot groups into 1-1.5 inches at 50 yards... considering I'm using a 3MOA dot scope and am an admittedly bad shot, that's good stuff!

http://i.imgur.com/mGSknpL.jpg

These also feed and function flawlessly in everything from my Sigs to my Glocks, and while they shoot (almost!) as well TL'd or conventionally sized and lubed... they just don't look as cool! I will submit that my G30 functions much better with PC'd bullets than any other type of lube. It also will digest bullets it is finicky about much better when PC'd than lubed in any other method.

http://i.imgur.com/2wTPkV8.jpg

ES isn't messy, and it doesn't take long. I can drag my ES gun out of the box, plug it in, start my compressor, and spray 100 bullets in about 3 minutes. I bake them for 10 min in a small toaster oven at 400 degrees. In that time frame, I can spray another 2 sheets of them, pick my nose, and still have 5-6 minutes to stand around staring at the oven. The mess is next to zero- I do it on the concrete pad in front of the garage and just dump a bucket of water on the excess powder, and it washes off no problem.

I'm sure your method will work for you as well, but I'm getting such good results with ES PC that I can't see other methods, which are definitely less precise in coating thickness, concentricity, and precision and repeatability of application, coming close.

PS: I am not GC'ing my rifle bullets and am shooting 7.62x39 at a shade over 2400 fps with good results. I do not believe a GC to be necessary when PCing, although perhaps PB boolits are preferable? More testing should be done, but I can say that even at high velocities it holds up very well.

[xacex]

Also, another reason I wanted to go with tumble coating the boolits was the fact that I have high end rifles in my shop. It won't do to have paint powder floating around everywhere. I was going to do all this stuff out in the buffing shed where I don't care if dust gets on stuff, but spraying the powder seems like a mess and a half. No?
Not really. The amount of powder dust is very controllable, and my double car (shop) is not dusted with P/C anymore than the normal amount of dust that is already in there. There is a dandy portable spay booth that cost under 100$ that will take care of any of the powder that was posted in the main P/C thread.But, don't you already have a dust collector in there? Hey, I have a 30,000$ Custom Harley sitin in there where I P/C along with another bike and other goodies. You don't think I worried about it too? I am a cheap SOB, but I like things done right. Once you compare the different methods you will see what I mean.

[leadman]

I was spraying into a big cardboard box when I was PCing. made it easy to reclaim the loose powder.

[MBTcustom]

OK, here's the first test run with my shake and bake powder coated boolits.
85740
85744
85745

Yeah, they look ugly as sin, but we'll see how they shoot.
All I did was cast, let them sit for 2 weeks, and then powder coated them with the help of grrifles, and finally crammed them unsized into flared brass for my M1A.
I would laugh like a maniac on my knees if this works, but I know I'm not that lucky. It's a place to start though.
I'm going to shoot them at 2000fps, and work up from there till I get propper bolt function in my rifle. Once there, I'm going to observe accuracy. If it sucks, then I will size the boolits to .3095 and try it again (they measure .313 now). At that point, I'll adjust the thickness of the coating to see if it makes a difference. After that, I'll try a different boolit, different powder etc etc etc you know the drill.

I could post pictures of the process, but it looks identical to the ones in this forum, and I mean exactly the same!
http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=84219

[Beagle333]

You'll refine your technique with practice and they will start to look better. Mine looked pretty bad at first, but they shoot great. I have the HF gun, but I will still utilize the shake and bake sometimes, because weather won't let me spray the gun outdoors.

[jmort]

"I could post pictures of the process, but it looks identical to the ones in this forum, and I mean exactly the same!"

That is the one by Dolomite_Supafly. He is member here and has posted numerous tips. Boolits look nice to me. Obviously it is not how they look but how they shoot.
http://www.300blktalk.com/forum/view...?f=141&t=84219

[popper]

The coating will do it's job just like you have it. I would suggest sizing to knock off any warts and make sure large clumps don't come off, just for QC. That powder should be good to > 3K fps, but your accuracy will vary. I've done PB in 30/30 ~ 2K, IIRC, 2-3" @ 50. Get well.

[sparky45]

There's a post in this section that describes a method of NOT using any liquid, such as acetone or lacquer thinner, and simply tumbling the cast in the powder and baking. I'm going to give that method a try on my next batch.

[MBTcustom]

There's a post in this section that describes a method of NOT using any liquid, such as acetone or lacquer thinner, and simply tumbling the cast in the powder and baking. I'm going to give that method a try on my next batch.

I heard about that! Seriously, post up your results!

[bangerjim]

WOAW...........testimonials up the wazoo! What more can I say.

You really do NOT want to do PC'ing indoors unless you are using a vent hood/dust collector because there IS some overspray and floating powder. If your gun is set up properly, that overspray is very minimal. The EMF potential of the gun attracts almost all the powder to the target.

banger

[jmort]

Here is one of the "Dry" threads
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?217443-New-wrinckle-to-my-easy-pc&p=2451129#post2451129

[MBTcustom]

Good stuff there Mortimer.

OK, I really want to do this right, so here is the token picture of the smashed boolit that every PC thread needs to have present.
85755

Also, I checked the hardness before and after, and it is unchanged. 14BHN for both.

[jmort]

That is the "acid test" and it passed. Some see if acetone/lacquer thinner will remove any of the PC, but the smash test is most important.

[3006mv]

If you make your own screen trays you can bend up the sides to accept a tray resting on top of the bottom one for double stacking and volume capability.
I did the dry method and it works well, takes two coats and bakes though
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a99/3006mv/20131028_184224_resized_1-1_zps8d3ae76e.jpg

[bangerjim]

Good stuff there Mortimer.

OK, I really want to do this right, so here is the token picture of the smashed boolit that every PC thread needs to have present.
85755

Also, I checked the hardness before and after, and it is unchanged. 14BHN for both.

I always smash mine from NOSE to BASE..........a bit more realistic of impact/penetration than side to side.

(Most of my boolits go in nose first! HA......ha!!!!!)

banger

[el34]

I always smash mine from NOSE to BASE..........a bit more realistic of impact/penetration than side to side.

banger

Good anger management, but save a few for shooting.

[MBTcustom]

I always smash mine from NOSE to BASE..........a bit more realistic of impact/penetration than side to side.

(Most of my boolits go in nose first! HA......ha!!!!!)

banger

You must be doing this for different reasons than me. I was unaware of any advantage a pc boolit would have on game animals? I thought it would act about the same as a regular cast boolit?
Regauress, I'm pcing boolits to get them out of the barrel cleaner, and at higher speeds, effectively replacing boolit lube and a gc in one fell swoop. Since that is my goal, I am much more concerned with the SIDES of the boolit holding up, than the ogive.
Is there something wrong with my logic?

[popper]

Fine logic Tim. You just want to make sure the coating doesn't crack off. Either way works. I smack the nose cause I'm checking for brittle alloy. I smack the sides to test PC. I also scrape with a knife edge to make sure it's not powdery. As I stated, I'd size them to cull any that chip & square up the rear band. Those look green, I thought you got black? Is that polyester powder? I think you need to get an ES gun so you can do some for L.L with better powder. Is that a 308 or 06 M1? I can send you some ES coated to compare.

[MBTcustom]

Fine logic Tim. You just want to make sure the coating doesn't crack off. Either way works. I smack the nose cause I'm checking for brittle alloy. I smack the sides to test PC. I also scrape with a knife edge to make sure it's not powdery. As I stated, I'd size them to cull any that chip & square up the rear band. Those look green, I thought you got black? Is that polyester powder? I think you need to get an ES gun so you can do some for L.L with better powder. Is that a 308 or 06 M1? I can send you some ES coated to compare.

Those are Lyman 311466 boolits painted with PBTP OD green. Like I said, I went to a buddies house and he showed me how to do it.
He mentioned while I was there that he would like to try a black powder coat, so I made sure to order that color so I could give him some as a way to say thanks.
I just ordered the stuff on the day I started this thread, so I haven't gotten mine yet.
These are going in a M1A scout. Semi Auto version of the M14 shortened 4" to make it sweeter than mommas love with a barrel length of 18". It's chambered in 308/7.62NATO.
Have a look at the deer I shot in the nostril in the hunting section. Got a good picture of it posted there.

[Love Life]

Ewwww. You got boogers on your bullets!

I'm still resisting trying the ES PC out of pure stubbornness...

I'll be looking forward to how these shoot.

[MBTcustom]

Ewwww. You got boogers on your bullets!

I'm still resisting trying the ES PC out of pure stubbornness...

I'll be looking forward to how these shoot.

If they shoot decent, then I don't care if they have boogers on them. This is not a bolt gun. This is my less than 100 yard fun having gun, and it eats ammo like it's free. I just want an option that allows me to switch from making batches of 50 rounds to making batches of 500 rounds.
If it gives me 2 1/2" at 100 yards consistently, then I will do the happy dance.
If I ever want real pretty cartridges, then I'll tumble them in SS and seat nice Hornady Jwords in there. I don't mean to be so base, but I want to get something together that takes as little time from my day as possible to put together.

[Love Life]

Still got boogers on em...

[MBTcustom]

I wouldn't care if they looked like Roger Rabbits bullets. As long as they smack what I aim at!

[Love Life]

^^Truth.

[MBTcustom]

It just changes your attitude when you go to the range with your rifle, and you rip off 200 rounds in 30 minutes (conservatively speaking) leaving rack and ruin in your wake, losing 1/4 of your brass, and have an awesome time. Then you get back to the loading bench, and you look at going through all the normal steps you take to build cast loads for a bolt gun. Then you get online and read that folks are shakin and bakin, and crankin out boolits by the hundreds that supposedly get you to the same place with boogery boolits?
Yeah, I ordered a whole pound. LOL!

[xacex]

Good job there! Much better than what I got from shake and bake. I hit the bench for an hour or so yesterday and cranked out over 250 9mm in various colors to mark what I loaded them with, and just got done prepping 150 cases with primers for some 45 acp in the AM. All my 54R brass is loaded with those boolits I put on this thread, and about 300 more are waiting for my results in the Blackout. It is nice to be able to break up the process by using P/C, and stockpiling boolits for when you have the time to load. It really is like having boxes of J-words. It is a strange thing to get away from traditional lubes, and I was a skeptic when I started. I am starting to see the payout with great pistol loads, and my rifle loads are coming along well.
It wont take long for you to get the bug. Frankly, it takes the worry out of lubing. This gives you a consistent "soft jacket" coating that works for everything so you do not have to look for or keep an inventory of lubes depending on heat, speed, lead hardness or any of the other variables. I really think this simplifies cast boolit reloading just by removing that variable. Just having something that makes 9mm cast boolit reloading effortless was worth it for me. How may times have you heard of leading in that caliber due to bore diameter variance, wrong lube, wrong hardness, case taper, wall thickness and the like[smilie=b:. Now, for me it is cast,coat,load, shoot, repeat in 9mm without issue across several guns. A couple of pet loads for 9mm are all I needed,and got, but I did find my old loads did not work well with P/C. You may find you need to revamp your loads towards jacketed data. Seems I will be buying less Universal, and more Red Dot, and Blue Dot.

[freebullet]

I would pay a dollar to see video of goodsteels' happy dance, long as nudity ain't involved.

[MBTcustom]

No nudity, but it may include mid air heel clicks, and Britney Spears dance moves with banjos and bagpipes ripping out a guns-n-roses song.
There's a mental image for ya!

[runfiverun]

250 boolits?
that's all were talking about.
I was thinking something like 2500 per batch.
I can size/lube and inspect 250 9mm boolits while having a smoke.

you guy's aren't convincing me about this powder stuff.

[Love Life]

I do a 1,000 at a time R5R using the other coating. Doesn't take long at all, but in reality time saved over a star really isn't much, if any, depending on the size of your oven.


Now if you're rolling a concrete mixer and a commercial pizza oven, then that's a different story. You still have to size them though.

The biggest benefit I find so far is cleanliness. No lube boogers stuck to other bullets, no pressure issues on the sizer, no heater for the lube, no voodoo. Just cast, coat, bake, coat, bake, toss them in ammo cans, and then go troll democrat websites.

Ti mis after speed of completion from ingot to target right now.

[jmort]

"I was thinking something like 2500 per batch"

That is nothing, you have never seen Wiederlader and his concrete mixer in action.

LoveLife, you must have posted at 8:22 and me at 8:22.5
You beat me to it.

[MBTcustom]

Heck, I'm just having fun here. I don't have an axe to grind either way.
Up till now, the cheapest easiest way to get good results at 2000+ has been FWFL and a Hornady GC. If I can do this, and get good results from a simpler, cheaper, easier process, then I will explore further. If it turns out being the same amount of fussiness, time and money, then I'll stick to what I know good. The fact of the matter is that I have 18years experiance making grease groove has checked boolits, which means I have the skill set and the tools to get good results. If its just the same, then I'm not really better off giving up my roots for a new thing.
However, so far, my total investment is $45 to see if it works for me. If there is merit to this process, then I'll see it, and if I see it with this small outlay of money, then many others will also.

[Love Life]

Soooo... how do they shoot for ya?

[jmort]

"Heck, I'm just having fun here"

Me too. I was having fun with 45s and 33s and then cassettes and 8-tracks and then CDs and then I stopped and then the kids went on to MP3s and I'm left behind. ;)

[MBTcustom]

Soooo... how do they shoot for ya?

Patience my good man.
I just got done making a .310 sizer (.3098 to be precise) so I can follow the process I laid out in post #23.
I just set up to get another 165gr boolit mold from milkman, and I'm scoring the toaster oven tonight for $20 (Craigslist works!)

[xacex]

250 boolits?
that's all were talking about.
I was thinking something like 2500 per batch.
I can size/lube and inspect 250 9mm boolits while having a smoke.

you guy's aren't convincing me about this powder stuff.

That's just loading on a break. It is nice to pick up a few hundred a day without it taking much time from the family. But when its there time at the range they sure go through it in a hurry.

[MBTcustom]

Friends! Booliteers! Lend me your ears!
(OK, if you've never seen Robin Hood Men in Tights, you won't get that LOL!)

I got my powder from PBTP today. I also picked up my toaster oven this evening from a nice lady on Craigslist.
85889
I pulled into my yard at 7:00 on the dot.
Ate dinner with my wife real quick (thank you my love!) and went to the shop to see if all this works like it's supposed to.
All I had was some RD 35 caliber boolits I was given by a member several months ago, but they were nekid, so they got elected.
(I apologize for the messy bench! I just pushed some stuff aside to get the oven up there and try it out.)

Anyway, I opened up my bag of powder and got a small scoop out (3.7cc about 3/4 full).
85890
Dumped it into the tub
85891
added a splash of acetone
85892
and started shakin 'em up.
Incidentally, I think this might be where some folks mess up? You have to keep shaking them till the acetone is all but evaporated off, and then they start getting a real even coat. They get to where they are almost sticking together. Anyway, FWIW, this was after just a few seconds of tumbling.
85893
Then I dumped them out on wax paper. (this turned out to be a mistake, which I thought it would, but figured it was worth a try anyway seeing as how I don't yet have a screen basket like grrifles does) So FYI, don't use wax paper!!!
85895
So the oven was warming up while I was doing all this shucking and jiving, and I slid them in, and slammed the door.
85896
85900
BTW, this is why you do this with plenty of ventilation! (see there? Once again Castboolits has helped me to stay in the good graces of my lovely wifey!)
85899
And here they are, all baked up and pretty like. (Albeit stuck like glue to the darn paper!)
85901

I took this last photo at 7:30, so total time of 30 minutes, including eating dinner, rummaging for acetone, and taking pictures of the whole process.
I like it so far!
Now, I need to see how they shoot. Got my fingers crossed on this one because that right there is stupid simple!!!

[MBTcustom]

Here's you another smashed boolit for the record
85902

[Beagle333]

Ya just gotta love stupid simple! ;-)
Almost seems to easy to be true.... until you shoot em. I like it!

[MBTcustom]

Well, I just went to the range last sunday, and results were akin to hammered dog poo. Pretty sad results.
I had about 3 batches of 10, Lyman 311466, loaded with various charges of W748.
I am reasonably sure that most of them hit the berm, but other than that, I can't say. Felt kind of like Don Knots in "The shakiest gun in the west". The only place they didn't go was back towards me. LOL!
I also had 10 of the Lee 200 grain boolits loaded atop W748. The nice thing about those was that the barrel I had on the M1A had a large bore diameter, and those boolits had a bore riding nose that started out a little small, so once the paint was added, they were about the right size.
I was shooting at a manhole cover 75 yards away, and I hit it every time, which in comparison to the previous batch was like shooting a laser beam.

When I got home, I stripped the M1A and found leading in the gas cylinder, but not so much in the bore (weird).

While this initial outing was dismal to say the least, I believe that I did find that fit matters with PC as much or more than with GG CLB's.
I theorize that special boolit molds will have to be made that are intentionally cut under size to allow for the PC thickness.......or, Lyman molds might make a comeback
:Bright idea:

[xacex]

I went out last week with the 300 blackout and some p/c 311410 h/p from the Mihec run. Shooting at a 8 inch plate rapid fire in an AR all but 2 out of 30 hit the steel plate at 100 yards standing. That's not to bad for what it is. Good enough for government work as they say. I do want to get them as accurate as possible, and the rifle will do 1 inch groups with jacketed so I expect at least 1.5 inches out of this to call it a keeper. Setting my expectations low however.

[popper]

Dang xacex you make me want to find a lite load for my 308 AR. Hard to do rapid fire with full loads, for me anyway. I did the dry shake & bake with HF white, came out almost as good as the ES applied. Tumbled cold boolits, did a 'flash' 10 min bake (coat just started to flow, I let cool just enough to handle), then retumbled and cooked for proper time. Need to practice this again and see results.
Edit:
8993989940
Red is Es, white is tumble 2x. Just a few spots that didn't coat well.
Tim, yours didn't have enough coating (from the pic) lead mist went into the gas chamber & out the muzzle so no leading showing in the barrel. Son's family is here (no power for 4 days) so it'll be next week before I do any boolit stuff. It was a 3 dog nite, close to sane. I did manage to get a couple hundred rifle cases annealed before the ice came in. Ever get a Lee pot to melt lead in 30F weather?

[xacex]

Dang xacex


That's what the guy a few lanes down said too. He wanted to give it a try so I let him go at it with his AK, and jacketed. He got 8-10 out of 30. Its fun to hear that ring, and hard to hit when it is swinging. I figure its good practice for a slow guy. Cant say I'm old yet, I haven't stopped playing.