Lee mold lube with aluminum anti seize?

[kryogen]

Can I just use the anti seize that I use for my car bolts to lube the lee molds?
permatex

http://www.permatex.com/images/stories/virtuemart/product/80071.jpg

A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol - Level 3 *NFPA Fire Code 30B - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-anti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-detail#sthash.7tbeU6S8.dpuf

[Echd]

I don't see why you couldn't. It doesn't take a fantastic lube or anything to do it well. I've used everything from Bullplate to oil, and most of the time I just use a stick of lube that I rub on the plates.

[kryogen]

where exactly do you apply it on the lee mould?
6 cavity lee.

I used it on the 2 "pins", and under the sprue plate pivot, and where the sprue plate locks, and then that's it...

[Echd]

The pins, the bottom of the plate so that it will cut more easily, and the sprue plate pivot. Avoid getting it in the cavs, but some on top of the mold helps.

Pretty much it's there for the pivot pins and the sprue plate more than anything.

[MtGun44]

Bull plate lube is a lot less messy.

Bill

[jmort]

Synthetic two stroke oil

[runfiverun]

the anti-sieze works just fine.
apply it to any contact points on the mold and on the top of the mold and bottom of the sprue plate when you have boolits in the cavity's.
I re-apply it to the top during casting also.
this makes the smeared lead not stick to the mold and gall it.
I like the aluminum and the nickel for mold use,[both steel and aluminum] the copper stuff not so much.

[Spawn-Inc]

unless i'm under lubing, the sample bottles the higher end molds ship with is more then enough for my lifetime. i've got 3 bottles and i've barely made a dent in one bottle. i lube the alignment pins and the screw that holds the sprue plate in place.

[runfiveslittlegirl]

that is the bull shop stuff, i have about 3 lifetime supply's of it. [i use it in boolit lube too]
still use the anti-sieze on my molds. [shrug]

[btroj]

Ester 100 AC oil from the parts store works great too. Think of it as two stroke without the solvents and additives. I find it lasts a bit longer that two stroke on the mould.

[Elkins45]

Lee recommends the anti seize in their current insert that comes with new molds.

['74 sharps]

The Anti-Sieze will work great as it is not drippy like a liquid, and I have never had to reapply it during my 3 hour casting sessions. A very thin coat applied before heating the molds, and you'll be good to go.

[runfiverun]

dang it brad.
keep reminding me about that i'll remember to try it one of these day's.
you'd think with it sitting right on the shelf in front of me i'd remember, old habit's die hard.

[Garyshome]

I will give it a try!

[groovy mike]

Works awsome for me, but use as little of it as you possibly can then still expect the first pour to boil the stuff if it is inside the cavity. After that it should be fine for hundreds of pours. I have it on all of my molds.

[JeffG]

the anti-sieze works just fine.
apply it to any contact points on the mold and on the top of the mold and bottom of the sprue plate when you have boolits in the cavity's.
I re-apply it to the top during casting also.
this makes the smeared lead not stick to the mold and gall it.
I like the aluminum and the nickel for mold use,[both steel and aluminum] the copper stuff not so much.

Now that is interesting. I would have expected horrible wrinkling, etc.. :shock:

I need to try that now since I have plenty of anti-seize. Thanks for that.