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dilly
10-25-2013, 11:57 PM
I've gotten hold of an old Ruger security six that isn't functioning properly. I pull back the trigger, everything works great, the hammer strikes forward, and then the trigger doesn't return all the way. It feels just like it does, but when you pull back a second time, the whole action locks up. Then you have to manually push the trigger forward, which results in a click as you can see the (part 38) cylinder latch pop into place.
85408

What is causing this hangup, and what can I do to smooth it out? Do you guys have any ideas? Should I post over in the wheel gun forum?

jblee10
10-26-2013, 12:06 AM
The hammer nose may be worn down from use. The hammer nose rests on the frame. With the trigger pulled the transfer bar (#49) is between the hammer and the firing pin. Try pulling back slightly on the hammer after the first trigger pull and see if the trigger will return.

dilly
10-26-2013, 12:18 AM
Thanks for the quick reply.

I pulled it back and fiddled with the hammer. I couldn't get the hammer to clear it. In order to free the action I have to push the trigger forward.

jblee10
10-26-2013, 12:30 AM
I should have asked first. Have you had it apart and cleaned it well. While it is apart, check the trigger spring and make sure it isn't broken. Also check for freedom of movement of all parts in the pawl system (54,55 and 56). Check that the pawl can move freely in the slot in the frame. It's been at least 20 years since I've handled a Security Six, so I'm trying to remember. Good luck.

jblee10
10-26-2013, 12:41 AM
Also, the front of the trigger needs to ride over the cylinder latch during return. And as I remember there is an angled surface on the cylinder latch that the front of the trigger rides on during return that "kicks" the latch somewhat forward as the trigger rides over it. Check for burrs, etc.

Larry Gibson
10-26-2013, 09:45 AM
Also someone may have bent the trigger return spring in an attempt to lighten the SA/DA trigger pull. Usually they bend the front leg, it should be straight.

Larry Gibson

dilly
10-26-2013, 12:47 PM
Mr Gibson, the return spring can't be the problem in this case. It was a problem initially, I took it apart and bent it in reassembly in such a way as to make it stronger. It still wouldn't work. Then I replaced it with an unbent Wolff spring hoping a new one would fix it. In all this, the spring never fixed it.

[/quote]Also, the front of the trigger needs to ride over the cylinder latch during return. And as I remember there is an angled surface on the cylinder latch that the front of the trigger rides on during return that "kicks" the latch somewhat forward as the trigger rides over it. Check for burrs, etc.[/QUOTE]

Is it possible I reassembled this many times, always getting this configuration wrong?i feel fairly certain the pawl system is functioning. I guess I will have to look at the latch and trigger for burs.

dilly
10-27-2013, 01:50 AM
I took it apart and checked again. I didn't see any burs or anything on the cylinder latch.

I did notice something that may be of diagnostic value. When reassembling, there is a stage where the trigger assembly is all together and the hammer has not yet been installed. At this stage, I can cycle the trigger easily, with it reliably returning forward. On installing the hammer and mainspring. The trigger doesn't fail to reset until I add the hammer and mainspring.

runfiveslittlegirl
10-28-2013, 10:22 PM
it could have something to do do with the trigger strut or the trigger spring.
if someone tried cutting the dpring or it's just worn out it might not have enough powder to re-set everything.
the hammer strut might be bent too.

catmandu
12-01-2013, 04:47 PM
So what was the solution?
All of us Security Six owners want to know.

Paul in WNY

geneo
12-01-2013, 09:16 PM
When I got my new ruger, the #52 return spring was full of metal filings. Cleaned it out works fine now.

dilly
06-17-2014, 02:17 PM
I was just thinking about this thread and I'm sorry for those of you who wanted to know.

I finally got it together to where it would do that sometimes, but not all the time. I let it go for a while because of that. It's still not satisfactory and I'm thinking about calling Ruger to see if they have any advice.

Silverboolit
06-17-2014, 08:47 PM
Did you try to flip the hammer strut over? In my GP100, it actually fits only one way.

dilly
06-17-2014, 11:01 PM
You mean take it out of the mainspring and put it back in flipped on it's long axis?

I am nervous about getting it back together if I release that tension, and the strut sure looks symmetrical to me.

Petrol & Powder
06-17-2014, 11:14 PM
Can you remove the trigger group and post a close up picture of the assembly?

Silverboolit
06-18-2014, 01:14 AM
Not end for end, but up for down. Top to bottom. Like flipping a 9 over to make a 6. Make sense?? There should be a hole in the strut that you put a pin into after the hammer is cocked. It will be below the mainspring seat. Put in pin and pull trigger while holding hammer, should let off the pressure . Just pin the strut and take out along with the spring and flip over.

dilly
06-18-2014, 09:35 AM
Oh, the whole assembly with parts #19, 44 and 45 (spring retained by a pin) won't go in the other way.

P&P,
I'll try and do that later tonight once I get home. Probably won't be until 2030-2100 though.

dilly
06-18-2014, 10:52 PM
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Trigger group

Petrol & Powder
06-19-2014, 07:45 AM
those attachments didn't work

dilly
06-19-2014, 08:02 AM
108243108244108245108246


How about this?

Petrol & Powder
06-19-2014, 08:05 AM
Still not working. I think you need to use the tools on this web page to download photos to the forum

dilly
06-22-2014, 08:21 PM
http://youtu.be/RL4PIm11zmk

This might help.

P&P and I have been PMing about some possible problems that I mentioned in the video.

Mr opinionated
06-22-2014, 11:00 PM
i have the same gun(357 6" barrel SS) with almost the same problem, mine would hang after shooting about 10 38SP would clean shot 10 more same thing, some time i would have to rotate the cylinder to make it work took it apart cleaned and polished all the moving parts using eagle one never dull there were a few ruff spot that i shined up, so far have not had any more trouble out of it.
how light of a single action trigger pull does it have mine is scary light ( don't have trigger pull gauge to test it), double action is great i am sure you have look inside the body of the gun to see if there is a hang nails are something that may be the problem



remember some times you cant see the forest for the trees
good luck

Petrol & Powder
06-24-2014, 04:14 AM
Where are we on this project?

Silverboolit
06-25-2014, 09:35 AM
You made a great video, e-mail it to Ruger. I am sure that they have run into this problem before. They made it, they know how to fix it.

dilly
06-26-2014, 12:47 PM
Sorry, Petrol and Powder; I've been very busy the past few days.

I did manage to take out the transfer bar and the problem persisted.

I think I'm close to ready to either call a gunsmith or Ruger.

Petrol & Powder
06-27-2014, 08:51 AM
Ruger would be my choice.

Petrol & Powder
06-27-2014, 08:54 AM
Oh, and before everyone gets a heart attack, I suggested temporarily removing the transfer bar just to test the action in an attempt to isolate the problem after eliminating numerous other issues.