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View Full Version : Marlin 444ss reassembly



mattd
10-25-2013, 01:57 PM
i took down and restored a 444. it looks AWESOME. i followed the instructions for reassembly, but every once in a while its hard to work the action. like the first time i take it out of the safe i'll shoulder it and try to cock it and wont be able to pop it open without dropping it from my shoulder and yanking on the handle. after that first one it will open easy, maybe still a little more difficult then before i disassembled. put it away for awhile and come back and it will be hard to move again.

any ideas?

sparky45
10-25-2013, 02:20 PM
Well, did it act that way BEFORE you restored it? If it didn't you put something back in a little out of whack. I'd just redo the process.

Gtek
10-25-2013, 05:49 PM
First- what type of oil/lubricant am I using. Second- restored? re-blue, paint, just clean? Oil carrier evaporates and gets sticky, WD-40? The locking block face may be slightly binding in bolt cut or sticking in receiver slots. If it were mine- clean, clean, clean, with degreaser. See how it feels. Oil with a good oil, see how it feels. See if it acts any different with empty case in chamber. The hook on top of lever pulls down on the hook on the bottom of bolt locking block. Not a whole lot going on in there, just need to figure out what is sticky. I bet a good clean/lube, a nice day and a hundred rounds or so would make you both feel better! Gtek

Lead Fred
10-25-2013, 06:22 PM
Yup, take it down, look for wear marks, jewel them, if you find them, reassemble
BTW there isnt any part of a lever you need to oil. a tad grease on the slide rails should do.

woody1
10-25-2013, 07:57 PM
Sounds like it's gooked up to me. Clean it well and also check all the screws. They need to be tight. Regards, Woody

mattd
10-28-2013, 09:30 AM
First- what type of oil/lubricant am I using.

kroil. thats gotta be it now that i think about it. it sits and locks up, then i work the action and it moves normally until it sits for awhile again. sound like a lube problem. i would have used Rem Oil but ran out while doing the outside metal.

MBTcustom
10-28-2013, 10:11 AM
Do yourself a favor and steer clear of aerosol lubricants of any kind. Remoil is better than WD-40 but its still not good.
The only clients that come through the shop who's guns run young no matter what, are the three gun competitors I smith for.
I asked them what lube they prefer, so I can hand their guns back lubed the way they like them. To a man, (and with the exception of frog lube on the carrier assy's) they use 30 weight motor oil and molly axle grease. I have been using these inexpensive products on my guns and they work like a charm.
Lot's of these wiz bang gun cleaners are not thick enough to really stay put, and when all the solvents evaporate out, you are often left with goo that you can't get off with anything but steel wool.
Lubrication shouldn't be over thought. If it works in a combustion engine, then it'll work fine in a firearm.

One "mystery goo" that I have been using here lately is RIG. It's a grease that bears a striking resemblance to cosmoline. I "RIG up" my guns before I store them, and definitely before I hunt with them in the rain.
Take it for what it's worth.

Gtek
10-28-2013, 06:23 PM
Kroil is not bad but I would not call it a lubricant, in my book more of a penetrating oil. If I were a betting man, I would say the block is locking in bolt cut. I would look really hard at these two surfaces. Open lever and try a little moly grease on the angle cut on bottom of bolt (very light) and see if things change. If you have way to confirm headspace and is good, put a little 400 paste on block contact face and cycle a COUPLE times. Completely disassemble and clean, then check again. Gtek

w5pv
10-28-2013, 06:45 PM
I had a problem with a Fox double that I own and it turnout that I had to reposition the stock some be fore it would break open and close correctly.It was a ever so slightly adjustment.It works fine now got a pecan thief with it this morning.

Shuz
11-01-2013, 10:00 AM
One "mystery goo" that I have been using here lately is RIG. It's a grease that bears a striking resemblance to cosmoline. I "RIG up" my guns before I store them, and definitely before I hunt with them in the rain.
Take it for what it's worth.[/QUOTE]

Tim,
I've been using RIG for over 40 years now on all my guns. It is a great product and a little tube will last years if you just rub a little RIG on a small piece of cotton cloth and store it in a medicine type plastic bottle. I store my tube of RIG in the bottle as well. That way when the little rag needs RIG, it's right there handy.
For those not familiar, RIG stands for Rust Inhibiting Grease.--Shuz

mattd
01-13-2014, 11:42 PM
The lube solved the original problem, but every once in awhile I run into another - including right after shooting a deer this year. Luckily a follow up shot wast required. The bolt locks open and can't be closed. Finally figured out what's up....the hammer isn't cocking all the way and blocking the bolt from closing. Happens 1 out of 20 times maybe. Any idea?

woody1
01-14-2014, 12:07 PM
IME when a 336 bolt locks open it's often caused by a loose loading spring screw. This allows just enough inward movement of the loading spring to cause the carrier to bind and does not allow the action to close. Again, always check all screws. Regards, Woody

btroj
01-14-2014, 12:42 PM
Do yourself a favor and steer clear of aerosol lubricants of any kind. Remoil is better than WD-40 but its still not good.
The only clients that come through the shop who's guns run young no matter what, are the three gun competitors I smith for.
I asked them what lube they prefer, so I can hand their guns back lubed the way they like them. To a man, (and with the exception of frog lube on the carrier assy's) they use 30 weight motor oil and molly axle grease. I have been using these inexpensive products on my guns and they work like a charm.
Lot's of these wiz bang gun cleaners are not thick enough to really stay put, and when all the solvents evaporate out, you are often left with goo that you can't get off with anything but steel wool.
Lubrication shouldn't be over thought. If it works in a combustion engine, then it'll work fine in a firearm.

One "mystery goo" that I have been using here lately is RIG. It's a grease that bears a striking resemblance to cosmoline. I "RIG up" my guns before I store them, and definitely before I hunt with them in the rain.
Take it for what it's worth.

Tim, isn't it amazing that some view all oils as lubricants?

My Marlins are lubed with some Miltec gun oil, never have had an issue. It is made to lubricate. It isn't designed to penetrate, loosen, or dissolve anything, it is just designed to lubricate.

Tazman1602
01-14-2014, 01:50 PM
Just going through this post and had an idea -- did you somehow manage to tighten the lever screw too much? I know it's a long shot but I have done that before.............did you ever figure it out? Just curious.

Art