? About SAECO Lubrisizer

[DHC]

I recently purchased a used SAECO Lubrisizer and have been able to get things working, I *think*. Even though it seems to be working OK, I have a few questions:

* Why are the lube sticks hollow? This may not be specific to the SAECO LS, but I really don't understand the reasons for hollow sticks of lube vs full sticks. For that matter, the SAECO instructions make no reference to hollow or full sticks, instead simply referring to "stick lubricant." Does it matter which style is used in the SAECO LS?

* Should I install more than one stick at a time when filling? It seemed like once I got the cup/spring assembly re-installed (see next question), the "grease pressure operating lever" had to be screwed down a very long way till there was some flow of grease. Maybe adding more sticks would solve this?

* After dropping a stick of lube in the grease tube, getting the cup/spring assembly back into the tube and the cap tightened down was a bit of a chore. Is it normal for the neoprene cup to be so tight that it makes it difficult to re-install the cup/spring assembly?

* The lube I am using (Thompson Blue Angel) requires use of a heater, so I purchased a Lyman Universal Lube Heater (http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/bullet-casting/universal-lube-heater.php). Does anyone know the temperature that heater operates?

* Finally, I *think* I can figure out the path the lube takes getting from the tube to the die and into the bullet grooves. I also noticed an indexing cut on the right-side guide rod (right-side while looking at the unit) toward the bottom of the rod that looks like it should engage when the bullet is being sized/lubed, however, I cannot detect any use of that indexing cut and wonder what it is for - anyone know?

Thanks, in advance, for any assistance.

- Dan

[PbHurler]

I recently purchased a used SAECO Lubrisizer and have been able to get things working, I *think*. Even though it seems to be working OK, I have a few questions:

* Why are the lube sticks hollow? This may not be specific to the SAECO LS, but I really don't understand the reasons for hollow sticks of lube vs full sticks. For that matter, the SAECO instructions make no reference to hollow or full sticks, instead simply referring to "stick lubricant." Does it matter which style is used in the SAECO LS?
The hollow sticks are for the Lyman & RCBS types of lubers; they have a central threaded rod that the pressure nut threads to. You place a hollow stick of lube over the threaded rod. Your Saeco should use solid sticks of lube. Hollow sticks will have a tendency to entrain air to the lube when in use, but you can melt them & pour the lube in the reservoir to eliminate that issue.

* Should I install more than one stick at a time when filling? It seemed like once I got the cup/spring assembly re-installed (see next question), the "grease pressure operating lever" had to be screwed down a very long way till there was some flow of grease. Maybe adding more sticks would solve this?
It will, you were filling the empty bottom portion of the sizer.

* After dropping a stick of lube in the grease tube, getting the cup/spring assembly back into the tube and the cap tightened down was a bit of a chore. Is it normal for the neoprene cup to be so tight that it makes it difficult to re-install the cup/spring assembly?
It will be pretty snug to avoid "blow-by" of the lube under pressure within the reservoir.

* The lube I am using (Thompson Blue Angel) requires use of a heater, so I purchased a Lyman Universal Lube Heater (http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/bullet-casting/universal-lube-heater.php). Does anyone know the temperature that heater operates?
I can't really answer this one; I do use Thompson's Bear Lube Heat in a Saeco with a CH heater, rheostat controlled.

* Finally, I *think* I can figure out the path the lube takes getting from the tube to the die and into the bullet grooves. I also noticed an indexing cut on the right-side guide rod (right-side while looking at the unit) toward the bottom of the rod that looks like it should engage when the bullet is being sized/lubed, however, I cannot detect any use of that indexing cut and wonder what it is for - anyone know?
There's a ball detent in the sizer body that indexes in that groove; it's to help keep the operating handle in the up position, (it smarts when the handle drops and you have a finger between your top punch & the die.

Thanks, in advance, for any assistance.

- Dan

Hope this helps you out

[Le Loup Solitaire]

I have a couple of Saecos, one old and one newer but they are mechanically the same machine. They take full sticks of lube...no hollow center...those are for Lyman and RCBS units where the pressure screw runs down the center of the reservoir. You can put in a stick and 1/2 of a second, but if you put in too much then you will have trouble getting the reservoir cap to screw on....and pulling excess lube back out of the reservoir is a pain. (even with the pressure lever backed all the way out/up. Neophrene pressure cup is better snug than loose. I have never had to use a heater so no advice to give. If you use a lube that needs a heater then you will have to experiment a bit. Start with low setting and increase if necessary. The ball indent keeps the handle up so that you don't get pinched by its falling freely. If you get squeeze out from in/around the nut that locks in the sizing die, it usually starts with a thin ribbon of lube...you have too much pressure in the reservoir--back it off a bit. Keep a small screwdriver handy to gather it up and toss the accumulated lube back into the reservoir when you refill the tube...or cut a washer out of some cork or neophrene and but it in between the nut and the sizing die. Over-tightening the nut doesn't work. Bullet/nose punches for Saeco are pricey so consider getting/using an adapter (available from The Professor) and you will be able to use the punches made by RCBS and Lyman. Saeco machines are well made; I've had them for decades. LLS

[Iron Mike Golf]

I use a SAECO and White Label Carnauba Red lube. I also use the Lyman heater. Mine is mounted using the c-clamp accessory.

1. I get solid sticks. I load 1 stick plus and saved scraps (squeeze out from die changes and off boolit bottoms) at a time. A piece of 1 inch dowel is handy to pack scraps down.

2. I don't know the temp of the Lyman heater. I don't use any temp regulation with it. It can get too warm. I just monitor with fingertips on the front of the body casting. "Comfortably warm" works for me. If it gets too warm, I just unplug. What's too warm? The boolits don't move easily on the upstroke. Some day, I'll rig up a light dimmer for temp control. Have not really needed it so far though.

3. Be careful about moving the lube piston up when cold and using a lube needing heat. If your seal is the new neoprene one, it can tear. Get thee to the hardware store and load up on neoprene washers. Get additional washers (steel or nylon) to sandwich the neoprene one. You want about 1/8 inch of rubber overhang. I consider this seal to be "consumable". One day I will cut some from either thicker rubber or leather (like the original one). When the seal tears (and it eventually will), get a light and make sure no fragments are left in the grease tube.

4. The difficulty in getting the cap back on can be much lube and the lube is stiff. You will get it on when you press and the lube flows into air space. You might try melting your lube and pouring. Also, run the heater for 30 min with the new stick in the grease tube helps softening, too.

5. I put a fiber washer under the top flange of the die and above the locking nut. That stops seeps when the lube is a bit too warm, but not so hot you need to let it rest.

6. Look at getting some blank top punches. These work great for SWC and HP boolits.

7. I do use Lyman/RCBS top punches. I don't use an adapter. I just glue them to the ram with a bit of Carnauba Red. Works fine.

[Iron Mike Golf]

I found some photos regarding home made piston seals.

Neoprene fender washer. The steel washer goes on top of the washer stack.
84681

1 1/4" neoprene fender washer.
84679

Nylon washer. 1" diameter, I think.
84680

Assembled
84678

A replacement seal from Redding is $6 and change plus shipping (IIRC). A pair of these fender washers is on the order of a buck fifty for a pair. I use maybe 5 a year. Changing it out is a two minute job, done when re-filling lube.

[bobthenailer]

lube temp between 100 and 110 degrees