P14 (Original 303 British Chambering) Will not feed Brass into Chamber Fully

[MUSTANG]

I have an ERA P-14 in .303 that I picked up in a Pawn Shop in Carson City Nevada back in 1990. At the time it was pretty dirty with a lot of grease/oil &crud in the barrel and chamber, so I talked the shop down on the price. A few weeks after getting it home and cleaning it up some, I took it to the range where I discovered it would not feed a .303 cartridge. Put it in storage until a week or so ago when I unwrapped it and once again went to explore what the difficulty is. I am speculating that there is a broken case in the shoulder/mouth area. I have used a bright mag-lite to facilitate looking into the chamber. The shoulder area is dark, and I believe I can see an irregular line where the brass might have broken off (or there could be a chamber scratch/flaw).

Attempted corrective actions:

1. I have used a .303 Broken Shell Extractor no success. It seems to catch, but not really, on what I believe to be the possible case mouth in the chamber.

2. I used a .45 caliber brass bore brush pulled into the chamber by a cleaning rod inserted at the muzzle, then attempted to push backwards the supposed case mouth. No luck.

Path Forward?:


1. Considered buying a .303 Chamber Reamer, but at $130 to $210 decided that was not cost effective for a rifle that needs a lot of restoration work.

2. Found several web sites that rent .303 Chamber Reamers (including one in Kalispell Montana - http://www.4-dproducts.com/index.php), but a $30 to $50 for 3 day rental, plus $150 to $200 security/damage deposit puts me back into deliberation, similar to #1 previously. Since I have never ventured into "Cutting" on a rifle chamber with a reamer, I am hesitant.

3. One option I have considered is to buy some Cerro-Safe, melt and cast into the chamber, then see if I can drive the supposed case neck/shoulder out (postulating the Cerro-Safe might adhere to the obstacle, or flow into small ridge above the mouth). It's $25.00 for 1/2 pound at Brownell's - Plus Shipping.

4. I could go looking for a Gunsmith familiar with experience with P14 303's, to see what they could do, but my fears are that I get a bill for the current value of the rifle (or more). This was originally to be a shooter, now it's a Project rifle and I am focused on keeping the cost under control.

5. Any other ideas from members?

Mustang :shock:

[Outpost75]

casting the cerrosafe and driving out the case is the safest course. Plug the barrel and fill with Kroil first to reduce sdhesion of thebroken case, then dry, pour your cast and hope fof the best.

[303carbine]

I have an ERA P-14 in .303 that I picked up in a Pawn Shop in Carson City Nevada back in 1990. At the time it was pretty dirty with a lot of grease/oil &crud in the barrel and chamber, so I talked the shop down on the price. A few weeks after getting it home and cleaning it up some, I took it to the range where I discovered it would not feed a .303 cartridge. Put it in storage until a week or so ago when I unwrapped it and once again went to explore what the difficulty is. I am speculating that there is a broken case in the shoulder/mouth area. I have used a bright mag-lite to facilitate looking into the chamber. The shoulder area is dark, and I believe I can see an irregular line where the brass might have broken off (or there could be a chamber scratch/flaw).

Attempted corrective actions:

1. I have used a .303 Broken Shell Extractor no success. It seems to catch, but not really, on what I believe to be the possible case mouth in the chamber.

2. I used a .45 caliber brass bore brush pulled into the chamber by a cleaning rod inserted at the muzzle, then attempted to push backwards the supposed case mouth. No luck.

Path Forward?:


1. Considered buying a .303 Chamber Reamer, but at $130 to $210 decided that was not cost effective for a rifle that needs a lot of restoration work.

2. Found several web sites that rent .303 Chamber Reamers (including one in Kalispell Montana - http://www.4-dproducts.com/index.php), but a $30 to $50 for 3 day rental, plus $150 to $200 security/damage deposit puts me back into deliberation, similar to #1 previously. Since I have never ventured into "Cutting" on a rifle chamber with a reamer, I am hesitant.

3. One option I have considered is to buy some Cerro-Safe, melt and cast into the chamber, then see if I can drive the supposed case neck/shoulder out (postulating the Cerro-Safe might adhere to the obstacle, or flow into small ridge above the mouth). It's $25.00 for 1/2 pound at Brownell's - Plus Shipping.

4. I could go looking for a Gunsmith familiar with experience with P14 303's, to see what they could do, but my fears are that I get a bill for the current value of the rifle (or more). This was originally to be a shooter, now it's a Project rifle and I am focused on keeping the cost under control.

5. Any other ideas from members?

Mustang :shock:


Are you sure it's 303 and not 30-06 aka Model of 1917?

[303carbine]

I thought of another thing it may be, did you load it without loading it in the mag first?
Every P-14 I have had needed the rounds to be loaded in the mag before cycling into the chamber.

[MUSTANG]

1. I also own a US Model 1917, so I am quite confident it is a P14 with .303 British Markings on the Barrel. (Including ERA P14 Markings).

2. I have removed the bolt and hand inserted a resized .303 Brass case. The head sticks out approximately 1/2 inch from the full seating depth in the chamber.

Mustang

[303carbine]

1. I also own a US Model 1917, so I am quite confident it is a P14 with .303 British Markings on the Barrel. (Including ERA P14 Markings).

2. I have removed the bolt and hand inserted a resized .303 Brass case. The head sticks out approximately 1/2 inch from the full seating depth in the chamber.

Mustang


At least some things have been ruled out, the broken case sounds more and more plausible.
I suppose someone had already tried the extractor and drove the broken piece in and wedged it further inside the chamber. It sounds like a reamer or a gunsmith fix, John

[Scharfschuetze]

I believe at one time Brownells sold broken shell extractors. You might take a look at that option. While I don't have one for the 303, I have a few US Military issue extractors and fortunately I haven't had to use one yet.

[EDG]

If you think you have some case body left in the chamber cut the neck off of a case.
Wipe it with Eastman 910 (Crazy Glue or Super Glue) and drive the case up into the broken case in the chamber.

Let it set 30 mins and then try to knock it out with a cleaning rod.

[303Guy]

I made a broken shell extractor using a cap screw. I ground the bolt front to sort of match the interior of a case and ground some 'thread interrupts' in it then screwed it in and smacked it out from the front. The trick is to loosen it a tad so it's not pressing the case against the chamber - and use a long enough bolt that can be reached with an Allen key. You could try a bolt that will grab just the neck if that's all there is in there. It does seem odd that a broken 303 case can lodge that firmly. It could be corroded in.

Cerro-Safe will tell you what's in there if it doesn't actually remove the obstruction. A soft lead casting might be an idea too - cheaper and it will also apply some heat which may help dislodge the obstruction.

If you finder after removing the broken case that there is pitting in the chamber, all is not lost. Moderate and lighter loads don't expand the case into such pitting.

I like that super glue idea.

[Larry Gibson]

Cerro-safe is often used to remove "broken shells" from chambers. I have done it numerous times over the years. It has always worked.

Larry Gibson

[blpenn66502]

Send me a PM with your info and I'll loan you enough cerro-safe to give it a try.

[Gtek]

+1 on Cerrosafe. Just thought of a quick try. Drill a piece of 2x4 about six inches or so long for (steel one piece) cleaning rod hole. Slide wood on rod and install 35 cal. brush and push about 2/3 into suspect area. Use 2x4 as slide hammer and reverse pop. Gtek

[KCSO]

Very carefully find a tap that will just thread into the remains of the case. I can't remember the size right off hand. Then turn the tap inot the case taking care not to cut through the case, then put a brass rod down the barrel and tap out the whole works. If the case has been in for some time it will be corroded and a good dose of Kroil will help.

[Hardcast416taylor]

I would rather a qualified gunsmith look at it first and if this is indeed what your problem is then let him do the job the right way. Their cost can`t be as high as the value of the rifle, and you`ll be getting it done right.Robert

[MUSTANG]

Send me a PM with your info and I'll loan you enough cerro-safe to give it a try.


blpenn66502:


Thanks for the offer on loan of some CerroSafe.

I decided to buy a pound of CerroSafe myself since I have at least another 15 Mausers I collected over the years before retirement (6.5 x 55, 7mm, 7.65, 7.62 x 51, 8mm, and...) Previously all were shot with surplus ammunition which I am getting low on and is limited for further purchase; I am going to reorient my casting efforts towards these. This means I'll need to chamber and bore measure each so buying the Cerro Safe is probably a better option.


Best price shipped I located was Bolton Metals, with one pound shipped flat rate box.

https://www.shop.boltonmetalproducts.com


I'll let everyone know how this effort goes, but doubt I get at it until 1st week of November as I'll be traveling late October.

Mustang

[Multigunner]

Best have a gunsmith inspect the chamber carefully. If its a separated case neck rather than case body trying the standard broken case tools might damage the chamber wall without moving the stuck neck.

A slim possibility would be if someone tried firing a shorter cartridge like the .30-30 or .303 savage by mistake and left part of a stripped jacket in the chamber neck.

[303Guy]

It will be interesting to see what the CerroSafe shows. I'm wondering whether I can find the stuff in my parts.

[EDG]

If nothing else plug the bore ahead of the chamber and pour it full of Hoppes.
Then plug the back end of the chamber and stand it in the corner with it muzzle down in a metal container in case it leaks.
Leave about 3 or 4 days. Un plug and see if the Hoppes has destroyed the case neck.
If not pour in more Hoppes and back to the corner.

Don't try to remove the case with some of the other copper removers since some of them can pit the bore if left for more than 15 mins.