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DHC
10-10-2013, 11:34 AM
Like the title says, I am a rank newbie to bullet casting. Been reloading for eons, but this is my first venture into casting. Been reading a TON along with watching a BUNCH of YouTube videos. I *thought* I had a handle on the process, so decided to make a first 'go' at it.

Managed to wrangle a couple Home Depot buckets full of used wheel weights from a few local shops. Sorted out the Zn and Fe (and plastic) weights to end up with one full bucket of (hopefully) lead WW and a 1/2 bucket of stick-ons. Found a propane burner with 6-quart cast iron 'skillet' from Cabela's for about $50 and picked up some decent gloves and utensils based on what I saw on YouTube.

Fired up the burner to melt down the COWW (I hope I'm getting the acronyms correct - seems y'all have your own shorthand. On that subject, I *wish* I could find the encryption code to unlock all the different mold/mould number designations. I guess that is a subject for a different thread) - anyway, got the burner fired up and put in a bunch of weights. Having read about the problems with Zinc weights, I tried to cull those out in the initial sort, but since my sons were doing much of the sorting work with me, I feel pretty sure a few found their way into the bucket. I figured it would be no problem, just needed to be sure to keep the temperatures down below 750 and I'd just skim off the Zn weights. Well, what I did not count on was a couple of things. Firstly, the amount of material (clips mostly) that needed to be skimmed off was greater than I expected. It made it difficult/impossible to really see if any of the Zn weights were among the mass being removed. I also did not anticipate the difficulty of keeping the thermometer properly positioned and the temperature controlled so as to not rise above 750. During the initial melting, when the weights at the bottom of the pot begin to melt, but it is not hot enough to reach those weights in the middle and top of the pot, the thermometer readings were inaccurate. Temperature control was a real bitch and I ended up running WAY over the 750 target - to as high as 850 at times. I am still not clear on the best way to manage the temperature to insure it does not rise above the desired target temp. The thermometer readings are not useful until there is sufficient melted lead to get a reliable reading and by then, the temps at the bottom of the pot have likely risen higher than desired. Finding a way to effectively mount/position the thermometer is something I need to work on. Further, the burner control is too coarse. I can now see why the electronic controlled pots are so desirable.

Soooo, once the melting began it was pretty straight-forward. I had both sawdust from Home Depot and also a couple of wax toilet seals to use for fluxing. I probably did a lot more fluxing than is necessary, but having read more about zinc removal now, the sawdust may have helped in that regard. Analysis of the ingots to determine Zn content and subsequent contaminant removal is my next step in this process.

A few more things I learned (I *think*):

* Need more ingot molds. I had one Lee mold and one Lyman mold. Things would have gone MUCH faster if I'd had more ingot molds. I'll probably pick up a muffin pan or two before the next batch. I'll also try to let the ingots cool a bit more. Several times I dropped the ingots before they were solid and the ingots now look a little 'strained' - with some 'stretch marks' from coming out of the mold too soon.
* I used a Rowell # 2 ladle to pour into the molds. Good tool, but a larger ladle for larger ingots (more like 2 - 3 pounds) would be useful.
* I used a large spoon with holes in it for stirring and fluxing. The spoon worked well for this purpose, but was useless for spooning up the lead. I'll add a regular spoon for spooning the lead out of the pot as this is important when getting down to the bottom of the pot and the ladle won't pick up any of the lead anymore.

Well, that is about it. I ended up with approximately 100 pounds of ingots from the COWW - though there may be some loss if I find it contaminated with Zinc and need to remove it. Any suggestions or critique on any of the above is welcome and appreciated.

- Dan

bangerjim
10-10-2013, 03:46 PM
This not rocket science or brain surgery..............dive right in!

Set your ingot molds on soaking wet cloth towels to make the set time faster! The steam will roll, so don't get burned. Keep the towels cool after several batches, as they will get VERY hot. I just dip them in the swilling pool! That saves me a lot of dead time waiting for the ingots to solidify.

Check out the junk stores and cooking stores for a SST ladle. I have one that holds 2# exactly, is thin SST so it heats up fast, and has a long handle with wooden sides. The one you have is great for boolit casting.

Watch the Home Despot sawdust, as they cut "other" stuff than just plain wood....pressure treated/laminate/flake/glue board/etc which have nasty things in them you do not want to breathe. Smelting WW's is bad enough without adding more crapola in there!

Do not dump a ton of weights in at once! Unless you are using a high pressure "jet engine" burner like I have, the heat will not migrate into a huge pot of weights. Melt a few to get a nice layer of silver soup and then add handfuls of them at a time. I use a small garden trowel I stole from the wife! Easier to skim and melt that way. And you can control the temp much easier...the huge load of WW's you have in there forms an insulating blanket that traps the heat at the bottom and the air gaps around the weights prevent intimate contact with the already-melted lead.

Most guys do NOT use electric smelting unless they have "brewed up" their own. Gas is the standard way for most of us. Casting...that is a different story. Electric pots are the only way to go!

You need to come up with a clip you can fabricate to hold you thermometer on the side, yet allow you to easily pick it up and swirl it around. A little fiddling with some sheet metal will do the job.

If you think you've got zinkers in your melt, there is a thread on here that discusses how you can refine your melt with sulfur and/or copper sulfate. I have use both just to test and it seems to remove zink...........and tin........and ant! But you can add those back in easily to get to the alloy you desire. WARNING: Sulfur REALLY stinks and is horrible to breathe in! Be CAREFUL.

Welcome to the addiction!

Feel free to ask questions as you proceed. This is probably the BEST site on the net to find answers, share success/failures, and have a good 'ole time jawin' with good 'ole boys (and gals!) [smilie=p:


bangerjim :guntootsmiley:

tengaugetx
10-10-2013, 05:46 PM
Welcome aboard. New here too. I use a fish cooker and an 8" cast iron skillet and no thermometer. I pile the wheel weights about as high as I can. I bring my heat up slowly and start poking the pile with a dowel as soon as I see any movement. I keep stirring and poking the pile until it eventually ends up being the clips, iron and zinc weights. I use a slotted spoon to scoop off the undesireables and flux several times with saw dust. I have a cast iron corn bread 'stick' pan I use for ingots and a cast iron ladle that holds about 2 lbs. I'm sure I have been lucky so far but it works for me.

ShooterAZ
10-10-2013, 07:05 PM
There are many ways to skin the cat. I have been using a Coleman stove and a cast iron dutch oven to do my smelting & blending. I flux with sawdust and a little parrafin canning wax. I never really worried to much about the temp. As soon as everything is melted, fluxed, and scooped, I pour right from the dutch oven into a muffin tin using heavy duty welding gloves. I always try to keep my batches on the small side, right at around 25lbs or so...don't want to collapse my stove!

JonB_in_Glencoe
10-10-2013, 07:57 PM
I *wish* I could find the encryption code to unlock all the different mold/mould number designations. I guess that is a subject for a different thread

This link is a "must have" for your Favorite/bookmarks.
http://www.three-peaks.net/bullet_molds.htm

sthwestvictoria
10-11-2013, 07:19 AM
c Analysis of the ingots to determine Zn content and subsequent contaminant removal is my next step in this process.

- Dan

I would not bother with this step, just start casting with some of your ingots, good bullets - good to go! Significant zinc contamination will be evident at the ingot state as the lead will have a obvious irregular, lumpy oatmeal surface. If you have performed a decent sort and scooped out any you saw in the smelt before they melted you are not likely to have much problem.

I would just use a very dry piece of wood to stir the pot and scrape the bottom of the pot, it fluxes as you go. Just ensure it is very dry and pre-heat it on the edge of the pot to ensure nil moisture.

Another tip is when you flux with sawdust is to lift up and pour lead over the sawdust sitting on the surface and really try to incorporate the sawdust with the mass of lead to help keep all that in in solution.