Kenny Wasserburger
10-07-2013, 12:24 PM
Thoughts and ideas on Patching bullets.
All comments below refer to target rifle shooting and are not what I do for My Hunting loads.
Patch width-height.
I have found that the most-best results On Paper, have been a shorter patch just to the ogive and about .120 to .200 over the base of the bullet and no tail give the best consistant results at longer ranges.
At Raton I had quite a good many remarks, from folks Mike Rix, Steve Baldwin, Jimbo and a good many others that on every shot I had very fine confetiti at the muzzle, and fine strips of paper were all we found in front of the muzzle. I wet patch plus use Rubbing alcohol to speed the drying of the patch on my hotplate, this seems to give the patch some nap too it and perhaps makes the paper more brittle???
On several tests we have found bullets will bump up to the top of the patch no mater where it is set the higher up the more the bullet will bump up, no mater what alloy used, of course we have only tested 1-16 and 1-20 these past few years. These results were on recoverd bullets that did not hit steel at the Mile target.
I still find that the harder alloys help prevent nose slump or setback if you will. I find enough reference by the old Dead guys of 1-11, 1-14 and 1-16 alloys (for target long range shooting) That I may even go to 1-14. Several references made too shallow rifling, thin paper will help with fouling issues.
Results at Phoenix, both in the cup and the Winternats Regional, and Raton this year, along with some record making scores fired at the Mile match for myself, personal results and where I ended up and 2 scope titles won, convince me I am on the right track, on the paper patch trail.
Fouling control is also major concern-issue that must be fully looked at to give fair and accurate evaluations of ones load and performance.
The small amount of vertical too even 1 mile, is that from great fouling control or is it from primer wads--- OR BOTH?
I also fully understand that a point comes: where one can only build on marksmenship skills and better doping of conditions, that is where more points can be picked up.
Things I won't be changing:
Wet patching-to bore
Distiled water
Patch to the Ogive no higher
Use a rubbing alcohol in my distiled water
8# paper and a bullet size that gives .001 over bore diameter of bullet after patch has dried.
A proper wad stack that fully protects the bullet's base.
A wipping regimen that leaves a near perfect barrel condition for shot to shot consistancy.
The 45-2-7/8ths cartridge
Annealing cases every time.
Primer Wads.
Frankly at this point, for me, I think that the only weak link, is the screwball behind the trigger, and our ability to dope-read conditions and make the proper corrections for such.
Kenny Wasserburger
The Lunger
All comments below refer to target rifle shooting and are not what I do for My Hunting loads.
Patch width-height.
I have found that the most-best results On Paper, have been a shorter patch just to the ogive and about .120 to .200 over the base of the bullet and no tail give the best consistant results at longer ranges.
At Raton I had quite a good many remarks, from folks Mike Rix, Steve Baldwin, Jimbo and a good many others that on every shot I had very fine confetiti at the muzzle, and fine strips of paper were all we found in front of the muzzle. I wet patch plus use Rubbing alcohol to speed the drying of the patch on my hotplate, this seems to give the patch some nap too it and perhaps makes the paper more brittle???
On several tests we have found bullets will bump up to the top of the patch no mater where it is set the higher up the more the bullet will bump up, no mater what alloy used, of course we have only tested 1-16 and 1-20 these past few years. These results were on recoverd bullets that did not hit steel at the Mile target.
I still find that the harder alloys help prevent nose slump or setback if you will. I find enough reference by the old Dead guys of 1-11, 1-14 and 1-16 alloys (for target long range shooting) That I may even go to 1-14. Several references made too shallow rifling, thin paper will help with fouling issues.
Results at Phoenix, both in the cup and the Winternats Regional, and Raton this year, along with some record making scores fired at the Mile match for myself, personal results and where I ended up and 2 scope titles won, convince me I am on the right track, on the paper patch trail.
Fouling control is also major concern-issue that must be fully looked at to give fair and accurate evaluations of ones load and performance.
The small amount of vertical too even 1 mile, is that from great fouling control or is it from primer wads--- OR BOTH?
I also fully understand that a point comes: where one can only build on marksmenship skills and better doping of conditions, that is where more points can be picked up.
Things I won't be changing:
Wet patching-to bore
Distiled water
Patch to the Ogive no higher
Use a rubbing alcohol in my distiled water
8# paper and a bullet size that gives .001 over bore diameter of bullet after patch has dried.
A proper wad stack that fully protects the bullet's base.
A wipping regimen that leaves a near perfect barrel condition for shot to shot consistancy.
The 45-2-7/8ths cartridge
Annealing cases every time.
Primer Wads.
Frankly at this point, for me, I think that the only weak link, is the screwball behind the trigger, and our ability to dope-read conditions and make the proper corrections for such.
Kenny Wasserburger
The Lunger