recommendations for revolver stocks

[Frosty Boolit]

I have is a 1907 vintage S&W hand ejector with 6-1/2" barrel. It had some hideous plastic things on it when bought and I put Goncalo alves stocks from a J frame on it for now. I'd like to see some examples of stocks that are a good cross between traditional and somthing that offers a good grip. I like the feel of the presentations and the hogue rubbers. The goncalo's are really too big for me.

[Lefty Red]

Eagle Grips always did me right. THey are somewhere between custom and high end stock on prices.

Lefty

[ironhead7544]

Look at the Herretts. Can be custom fitted.

[rockshooter]

Second on Herrets- esp since you referred to them as "stocks"- which is what they call them.
Loren

[oscarflytyer]

Found an old Herret set for my Mdl 10 at a gunshow. $10! I was thrilled. I, and both my boys, like them the best over 3-4 options we have tried.

[fouronesix]

I don't know what a cross between "traditional and modern" means? The grips either fit your hand or they don't. In the end there are only two types of grips for handguns- those that are original to the model and those that are an aftermarket product.

I'm partial to the Pachmayr grips myself. You should go to a big gun store and see which grips you like the best.

[Char-Gar]

Rubber grips suck. Here are is a pair of K frame Herrett Shooting Stars I modified to suit me. Also a set of Herrets "Detective" stocks. They are big enough to get a good hold, but no so big as to be bulky or cumbersome.

[Char-Gar]

Two more pair of Herett's "Detective" grips. A set on an "N" frame in 45 ACP and another (checkered) on a little "J" frame Kit gun.

[Char-Gar]

With some time and work, factory Smith and Wesson grips can be slimmed down to make good grips. Here is a pair of smooth Goncolo Alves on a 1931 M&P.

[Char-Gar]

On the larger side, but still very comfortable is the Kurak made factory style "Coke Bottle" grips show here in a K frame Combat Masterpiece. The Skeeter Skelton modification of the Roper grips on the "Combat Magnum" were made by Bear Hug. Bear Hug is belly up but Blu-Magnum still makes this pattern. For grins here is an original set made by Roper on a Colt Trooper.

[fourarmed]

There are three basic factory patterns: The tiny scales on your Hand Ejector, the "Magna" style that overlap the side of the frame but not the front and backstrap, and the oversize target types that cover the frontstrap and sometimes the back. I never cared for the Magnas, though they are better than the scales. They can be combined with a Tyler T-grip, but my favorite is a minimum size target style. I cut down a Herrett Shooting Star even smaller than the ones CharGar shows. It is the best I have used.

[fouronesix]

Wood, slicked up and tricked-out grips look "perty" but they DO suck when you have to grab a handgun for sure and hang onto it for sure. Makes no difference though for the "show the pals" at the range (or on the internet), "looky my toy" session.

[Frosty Boolit]

I like the Detective grips. Thanks for the pictures.

[Char-Gar]

Wood, slicked up and tricked-out grips look "perty" but they DO suck when you have to grab a handgun for sure and hang onto it for sure. Makes no difference though for the "show the pals" at the range (or on the internet), "looky my toy" session.

Generations of serious handgun men used wood stocks, including Elmer Keith, Skeeter Skelton, Bill Jordan, Charles Askins and thousands more. They had to grab a handgun and hang onto it for sure. Your post is patiently absurd.

[rockshooter]

You for sure hang onto checkered Herrett stocks- I have had to sand some points off to make them fun to shoot! I drove thru Twin Falls, ID last summer to see if Herretts were still in business- they are. Rod let me pick thru some of his old grips until I found 3 pair that I liked- nice man!
Loren

[Char-Gar]

You for sure hang onto checkered Herrett stocks- I have had to sand some points off to make them fun to shoot! I drove thru Twin Falls, ID last summer to see if Herretts were still in business- they are. Rod let me pick thru some of his old grips until I found 3 pair that I liked- nice man!
Loren

Herretts has been making grips for me for over 50 years. I use then because they fit my hand which helps me to shoot better. I get my grips with an oil finish because they don't slip in my hand. The type of finish on the wood makes a big difference on how slick the grips are. Nobody does fine wraparound checkering like Herretts but I only use them on my 22s, for the reason you mentioned.

I have used most of the herrett styles but have settled on the Detective as best for me. When the rubber grips came out, I jumped on them like everybody else, but as time passed went back to wood. I prefer the weight, texture and feel of wood. They look nicer, but that is a minor issue. I use them because they help me shoot better than the squishy stuff.

[cbrick]

Rubber grips suck.

Really?


I use them because they help me shoot better than the squishy stuff.

I have & use Pachmeyer's on FA's from 454 to 22. I use them because they fit my hand far better and thus help me shoot better.

I have yet find a set of Pachmeyer's that felt even remotely squishy. Agreed that nice wood look's much better so I guess the real question is . . . Do you want to look good or shoot good?

Rick

[cbrick]

Actually your reply to my post is not only wrong, it's ridiculous. For one you flat out stated that rubber grips suck. NO, the don't, they have a very real and legitimate purpose and work well for that purpose.

For two, NO, the OP did not ask specifically about wood grips, in fact he mentioned Hogue rubber.

For three, I wasn't trying to convince anybody of anything, simply stating that the Pachmeyer rubber grips fit my large hand far better than most other choices and thus "I" shoot better when using them.

For four, you made the implication that rubber grips are squishy. Squishy? Get real!

You wouldn't sound so ridiculous if you stayed on subject and not tell other people they said things they did not say for the sole reason they saw your post for what it is and post a view different than yours.

Rick

[Char-Gar]

Rick..You are right, he did ask about (what I understood to be factory grips) of all kinds including the Hogue. I misread the post.

I guess squishy is what somebody thinks it is. When I squeeze a grip and it gives, that makes it squishy to me.

Everybody gets to use what they like, so can we move on now?

[Char-Gar]

I like the Detective grips. Thanks for the pictures.

Here is another N frame (624) with Herretts Detective stocks and a 1913 M&P with another set of Herretts Shooting Stars, I whittled down to the same size as the Detective stocks.

Handgun stocks are the contact point between the shooter and the firearm and the choice is very personal and important. You should find something that fits your hand, feels good and help you shoot the firearm to the best advantage. All this back and forth about materials is all fluff.

[Char-Gar]

Frosty...

While I am at it, here three more sets of Herretts Shooting Starts I took down to Detective dimensions. One is on a 3" J frame Model 36 and the other on old Colt Officers Model, and a third on a Smith and Wesson 1955 Target Model (the wood really isn't that red). These things could be picked up on Ebay for just a few bucks, and with some time and tools, could be reshapped into a very comfortable grip. Here are the pics.

Somebody up the thread mentioned the use of grip adapters (Tyler and Pachmayer) with factory stocks. I will also include some pics of revolvers set up that way. I started with adapters many years ago and they can still work very well. I hope so many pics are not a problem, but I just want to help and show where I have landed after a half century of handguning. I think I tried every grip, material and design known to mankind before I figured out what really worked for me.

Custom made to measure grips can be pricy and the pics on this page shows ways I found to get to the same place with a much smaller outlay of cash.

The issue really comes down to how much you are willing to lay out for a set of stocks. If you are flush with cash a pair of made-to-measure Herretts will certainly please you. A set of high end off the shelf grips like Eagle and Altmont are also good, but a step down in price. At the bottom in are the "Po-Boy" way of dong things like those shown below.

There is always the rubber grips if you like the way they shoot and feel. I don't have any J frames, but I might be able to fix you up with some Ns or Ks (Smith and Wesson) that I have laying around from my flirtation with those critters. I think I should have both Hogue and Pachy. I have not looked at them in years, so I would have to check and see what I still have. I have a rather large box filled with grips of all kinds and sorts.

[Char-Gar]

Like to know how you re-finished those.

I use a small sanding disc in the Dremel tool to shape followed by hand sanding down to 600 grit and finished with Tru-Oil. About 15 coats with rubbing compound every three or four coats and before final coat. Allow a week for the finish to cure before putting stocks on gun.

[ironhead7544]

Char-Gar: Thanks for the pics. Thinking of getting a 5 inch 38-44 S&W thats in a gun shop I know of. If I get it, then its the Detective grips for it.

[Char-Gar]

Char-Gar: Thanks for the pics. Thinking of getting a 5 inch 38-44 S&W thats in a gun shop I know of. If I get it, then its the Detective grips for it.


The 38-44 Heavy Duty is a favorite of mine and there is a 4" in the pics above. I would like the 5" better, but I got this 4" on the cheap at a pawn shop about 20 years ago. I think I paid $125.00 for it. It had a badly peeling after market nickel plate which I removed and then blued the pistol.

If you have not played with one of these, you will find the front sight height is for the 38-44 load which is several hundred feet faster than a standard 38 Special. Standard 38 Specials will shoot low and you will have to use some Kentucky elevation which is not a deal breaker for me. Of course you can load your 38 Special hot like the old factory load it was designed for and it will shoot to the sights.

[fourarmed]

My beef with the Pachmayr grips is that they stick to the hand TOO well. I found after years of shooting bullseye, that any grips are fine if you never, ever, flinch. If you do flinch once in a while, the soft rubber grips and the ergonomics will cause the flyer to be farther out. I realize that I am probably the only member of this board who occasionally flinches, but just in case there are others, that has been my experience. I too have a box full of Pachmayr grips that I would be happy to sell for a reasonable price.

[Char-Gar]

My beef with the Pachmayr grips is that they stick to the hand TOO well. I found after years of shooting bullseye, that any grips are fine if you never, ever, flinch. If you do flinch once in a while, the soft rubber grips and the ergonomics will cause the flyer to be farther out. I realize that I am probably the only member of this board who occasionally flinches, but just in case there are others, that has been my experience. I too have a box full of Pachmayr grips that I would be happy to sell for a reasonable price.

I can't prove it, but I do know folks that swear the Pachy grips don't provide a stable surface to absorb the recoil and the gun butt moves around in the grip. That isn't good for accuracy. They will soak up some recoil, I will give them that, but the pistol butt is moving around inside the grip as well. If the outside compressed in your hand, the inside will compress under the recoil and spring back. I just pass it on for whatever it is worth.

[Frosty Boolit]

well I really don't want to put rubber on this classic revolver. what I meant by "I like the feel of the hogue and pachymyer" is that they fill in the area between the trigger guard and the handle so upon firing the trigger guard is not driven into my middlefinger knuckle. Aside from that I'd like to keep it wood for a classic appearance.

[cbrick]

I can't prove it, but I do know folks that swear the Pachy grips don't provide a stable surface to absorb the recoil and the gun butt moves around in the grip. That isn't good for accuracy. They will soak up some recoil, I will give them that, but the pistol butt is moving around inside the grip as well. If the outside compressed in your hand, the inside will compress under the recoil and spring back. I just pass it on for whatever it is worth.

I've shot perfect scores in both State and NRA National Championships in long range revolver using the Pachs. If they wiggle around on the gun butt ya couldn't prove it by me.

I agree the wood is beautiful and Char-Gar's wood is exemplary. I agree that the Pachs are butt ugly until they are a perfect fit in your hand, then they too are beautiful.

Rick

[Murphy]

Char-gar's use of Herrett's is really a good way to go.

I foolishly let one set of mine get away in a sale I'd redone to my personal taste. It can be a pleasant, well rewarding experience to take and old pair and breath new life back into them.

If one watches the grip box's and a few online auctions, sometimes they can be had for pretty much a song.

Murphy

[Petrol & Powder]

I've had Herrett's in the past and they are good but often out of my price range. For a good "out of the box" grip, I turn to Eagle Grips or one of the S&W combat grips. Some combinations of factory grips & Tyler grip adaptors can work really well. There is often a notion that grip adaptors are old fashioned or out of style, which is total non-sense! If a factory grip coupled with a grip adaptor works for you - then you've found your solution!