Maxi ball size question

[randyrat]

I have a mold for a 370 gr Maxi ball and my mold is making them a bit large using pure with a bit of Sn added...What is the ideal size for a 50 cal muzzle loader. I'm thinking about getting a push thru sizer die.
.498
.499
.50
I'm guessing .498 and if it is too small I could always hone it open a bit.

[johnson1942]

one thing you can do is reduce it if it has to be reduced down to the size that it just fits in the bore with out slop but not too tight. then lay a sharp file on your bench and with some pressure of another sharp file roll it between the two files. this will knarl it up a few thousands. then lube and let dry with lees alox. get a small rubber mallet and tap it straight into the bore. go to buffalo arms out of idaho on the internet and order some .60 thousands .50 cal fiber wads or order .50 cal felt wads. use these between bullet and powder. start out with 80 grains of what you shoot as it may be enough. use pure lead if you have it to cast. dont go with more than 20to 1. this method will shoot good. remember black powder bumps bullets the best of all the powders use in muzzleloaders. have fun.

[randyrat]

Yes I have shot it and figured out some real good loads, also I have some felt wads, but my mold cast these Maxi balls at about .504 and I can't load them at all without pounding them in. I can cast a few with a cold mold then they start getting too fat as the mold heat up....Maybe I can try lowering the melt temp and cooling the mold between cast. Hopefully I can find a happy medium.
I think Theprofessor makes a sizer die that is about .499 or so

[fouronesix]

Can't add much, but do try pure lead first. The original Maxiball was designed to require a short starter for engraving the top drive band which is supposed to be around .002-3" larger than bore- so .004 larger is surely do-able with pure lead since the the top drive band on that bullet is not very wide. Ideally, the bottom bands should be right at bore diameter. The whole combination seems to work best in a clean bore and with those clearances and with a pretty stiff load in a 48" twist rifle. I found I got my very best accuracy in a standard 48" twist T/C barrel using a fiber wad and cleaning between shots.

I don't know for a fact but my theory is: by design or experimentation the T/C ballisticians or whoever designed the Maxi found that obturation was greatest near the base and least near the nose. Therefore to keep the nose plumb to the bore line axis during powder ignition and travel down the bore, the engraved nose drive band kept the nose true to bore line while the drive bands nearer the base obturated into the grooves. Additionally by engraving the front (nose) band when loading gave the advantage of starting the spin even before full obturation of the rear bands thus helping prevent "skidding" just after ignition. .02 cents worth of theory :)

[Maven]

"...I can't load them at all without pounding them in."

Randy, Are they difficult to start and load in a clean, i.e., unfouled bbl.? Also, is it possible to push one a few inches down the bbl. and then pull it to determine exactly what diameter sizing die you'll need?

[Junior1942]

Randy, there's nothing wrong with that bullet other than it's too hard, i.e., the wrong alloy.

[bubba.50]

leave the tin out & give'er a try. the mold is designed to allow the proper shrinkage for pure lead. alloys don't shrink enough & as you've noticed they're way harder too. luck & have a good'en, bubba.

[randyrat]

"...I can't load them at all without pounding them in."

Randy, Are they difficult to start and load in a clean, i.e., unfouled bbl.? Also, is it possible to push one a few inches down the bbl. and then pull it to determine exactly what diameter sizing die you'll need? Last bullet I did that with took me an hour to get out. It was jammed in there.

[mooman76]

Last bullet I did that with took me an hour to get out. It was jammed in there.

If you put some kind of heavy brass or whatever rod in the bore first, maybe wrapped with tape after you start your conical you can drive it back out to get your slug for measure. I would want it at least just a little oversized so it will size to fit as driven in.

[Junior1942]

I have some store-bought T-C 370 gr 50 caliber Maxi-Balls.

OAL = .690"
TBD = .507"
MBD = .500"
BBD = .501"

Again, your problem is bullet alloy, not your mold. If you size your bullet to where it's an easy slide down the bore, it will slide up the barrel when the muzzle is pointed down. That ain't a good thing. In fact, it's an awful thing.....

[montana_charlie]

I have a mold for a 370 gr Maxi ball and my mold is making them a bit large using pure with a bit of Sn added....
How pure is your 'pure' lead, and why are you adding tin.
The mould is designed to give you the right bullet when pure lead is poured in.

And, you are supposed to have to smack it to get the top band started into the muzzle ... just like you have to smack a patched ball to get it started. It is why short starters exist.

CM

[backroad]

I cast mine with soft lead in lyman mold 370 gr polished to drop at .508 top band .504 bottom bands.This has proved very accurate i used to shoot store bought maxi balls and maxi hunters no accuracy 4" or bigger at 100 yds these where .504 top band .500 bottom bands.All shot in t/c firehawk it slugged about .508

[fouronesix]

Well, bore diameter is bore diameter and groove diameter is groove diameter.

Straight starting of a flat base Maxi with a base diameter larger than bore diameter would be interesting without some sort of muzzle guide, false muzzle or rebated crown.

[randyrat]

I'll start over using pure soft lead.

I added just a little bit of Tin Sn thinking it would help me get going on the casting, never figured it would affect diameter that much. I don't cast pure very often, I need to go thru re training camp.

[Junior1942]

I'll start over using pure soft lead.

I added just a little bit of Tin Sn thinking it would help me get going on the casting, never figured it would affect diameter that much. I don't cast pure very often, I need to go thru re training camp.Good to hear that, Randy. I was getting worried about losing my beeswax supplier :-)

[randyrat]

I've been using up your felt wads Junior in a variety of stuff. You still sell those among many other things right?

I need to shoot a lot more BP soon to get ready for the Dec ML Deer hunt. Hate to run out of wads.

[Junior1942]

I've been using up your felt wads Junior in a variety of stuff. You still sell those among many other things right?

I need to shoot a lot more BP soon to get ready for the Dec ML Deer hunt. Hate to run out of wads.I have plenty of both regular felt and the denser recycled felt. Our muzzleloader season opens Oct 19, in just two weeks. With luck I'll be in my tent in the river bottom. This year I'll be toting a 50 caliber Lyman Plains Pistol in addition to my Traditions Buckskinner.

Here's a look at it with new Lyman sights:

http://www.castbullet.com/shooting/photos/plains/pp014s.jpg

[randyrat]

NICE! Sounds like my kind of get away, enjoyable.. I hope your snakes down there in Louisiana are cold enough to lay low.

I cast another 200 of these out of pure to be sure of consistency, they are still too fat to load. I rolled the bottom band or base just enough so I could load them in a clean bore.. The two smaller bands engrave the rifling and the base engraves after shooting it. I recovered a slug and could see rifling in all the bands.. I didn't have time for an accuracy test but am sure they will do just fine..