Lee 6 banger in 9mm

[Vinne]

I made a mistake with my 9mm 120 gr mold. When I first got the mold it started out great...a quick spray of "Frankford Arsenal Drop Out Bullet Mold Release Agent Aerosol" and I began casting like crazy. The first batch of 250 looked great. The next day I cast another 250 but had to throw back about 20 or 30. A week later I go out to the shed expecting to repeat the session but more than half had to be put back like I had a 2 cavity with a lot of extra work and hard to pound the bullets out. So I packed it up and moved on to another project. A few days later I cranked up the pot and started a new batch. I gave the mold another quick spray and started casting. Now most of the bullets pop out ok but they look bad. Out of each 6, some are frosted on one side and some are wrinkled on one side. Another hour and a half wasted. Today I tore the mold apart and looked at it under my magnifier. Well the mold release that is supposed to aid in casting build up and caused a uneven coating that now created rough spots in some areas of some bullets and thick blotches in other areas.

So I spent the whole day brushing and cleaning the mold instead of casting. I could have made 1000 bullets in the time I wasted removing the "drop out spray" that was as hard as varnish. It still has a few tiny spots left but that will be something for the weekend. The thing is I have used it on my shotmaker ramp tor 6 months and it wipes right off like a powder afterwards. I don't look forward to cleaning my other 3 molds that I sprayed a protective coating before I put them away...but that will be for some other weekend!! What a mess!!!

[razerok1]

I have heard bad things about the drop out spray. I have had great results with coating the mold with carbon from burning wax.

[capt.hollis]

I have heard bad things about the drop out spray. I have had great results with coating the mold with carbon from burning wax.
Likewise, I have a friend of mine who had the exact same thing happen. Whenever I chunk of wax in the lead I stick my mold over the smoke, and works excellent

[MtGun44]

Naked molds work best. Scrub cavities clean with Comet and toothbrush, do NOT smoke
or add ANYTHING to the cavities! Use BullPlate lube on the bottom of sprue plate and
top of mold blocks, and a bit on alignment features. VERY little should be used and do not
get it into cavities. All will be well then.

Bill

[Vinne]

I will try it this weekend.

[MtGun44]

Best of luck. I think you will be OK once you get the cavities clean and
lube the alignment pins and sprue plate very lightly with Bull Plate lube.

Bill

[williamwaco]

Been there.

Done that.

Got the T shirt.

I had to lap the mold to get it clean.

I used comet to coat the bullet lap instead of a real abrasive paste.

When you get it clean, it will be OK.

Then give that can of release to someone you don't like.

[Vinne]

OK...I spent some time giving the mold a good cleaning. After the rinse and dry, I smoked it. The metal was heated and the casting began. I cast over 300 and only had 8 wrinkled ones. About 10% have a small dull spot on the nose but I will shoot them anyway. I now know better and will stick to what works and leave the "new stuff" for the venturous. Thanks to all for the help.

[PS Paul]

Like MT said, don't smoke it, just cast with it clean and judicious use of lube on sprue plate and pivot points, per Lee instructions.

I have NEVER smoked a mold or used any release agent..... and don't plan to ever.

I have several Lee 6-cavity molds and they all work wonderfully, provided I never let lube in the cavities.

[bangerjim]

Well......just the opposite. I have 16 Lee molds and I smoke EACH one the FIRST time and never again. Boolits are perfect. And I Do NOT clean & scrub & scrub & clean & clean & scrub like so many suggest on here. I have taken several NEW mold right out of the box, LIGHTLY (key word here) smoked with a BEESWAX (not paraffin) candle and went at it. Perfect boolits the 1st drop......with a pre-heated mold, that is.

Your "wrinklies" could be from low temp mold and/or lead or not enough tin (fill-out). I have never seen smoke in a mold cause wrinkles! It is microscopic thin layer of carbon...at least it is supposed to be....unless you do it waaaaaaaay too much! Mabe a build up of carbon/lube crapola will cause undersized drops, but not normally wrinkles. Low temp is darned near almost always 100% the cause of wrinkles.

There is no need to waste money on commercial lubes of any kind. I just lightly touch the pins and screw joint with a pencil thin piece of beeswax once the mold is up to temp. Perfect lube.

Mother Nature Knows Best!

Works for me! Every Time.

bangerjim

[fryboy]

a good carb cleaner should help get the mold release off , the dip perhaps works best but a can of gumout or b-12 and a tooth brush makes it a lil more work but not too bad ,keeping it wet when scrubbing seems to help

eh some i have to smoke and some i dont ,the ones that say "smoke me big boy" usually do best with a very thin lite coat ( ermm barely dressed so to speak :P ) not a heavy layer of soot

[Dystaxia]

FYI - acetone and a scrub brush will remove the drop out agent.

[waco]

Naked molds work best. Scrub cavities clean with Comet and toothbrush, do NOT smoke
or add ANYTHING to the cavities! Use BullPlate lube on the bottom of sprue plate and
top of mold blocks, and a bit on alignment features. VERY little should be used and do not
get it into cavities. All will be well then.
Bill

Bill nailed it.

[MtGun44]

Need some mirrors to go with that smoke. . . . . . :bigsmyl2:

Bill

[retread]

I went through that whole scenario. Smoke, release etc. Ended up cleaning everything. Lubed the sprue plate (bottom side) and the top of the mold. As said: sparingly.
End of problem!

[baragasam]

I had the same problem with Lee's 125gr 9mm 2R 6 Cav. Switched to the 120gr TC. No issues dropping out mold. I also don't prep my molds aside from making sure it's clean before I start. I do however clean my molds with alcohol the day after. If it's frosting it sounds like your lead is too hot. My lee production pot is set at 2.25 turns out on the heat control and I just leave it there.

I also use a propane torch to heat up the mold before I start, it helps a lot. AND also leave the mold on top of the pot while everything heats up before I use the torch.

[Rich/WIS]

Tried the mold release once and had a similar bad experience. Some I have smoked and some not depending on how they perform, but once broken in they don't seem to need any further prep. I use copper anti-seize under the sprue plate pivot and on the stop bolt, but very sparingly. This has eliminated galling. I do use the release spray lightly on the bottom of the sprue plate and with the cavities plugged on the top of the mold to eliminate any lead build upon either. Don't know if this is the "best" or "only" way to do this but it works for me. Experiment and find what works best for you.

[Martin Luber]

What is the opinion on brake parts cleaner on oily moulds? Less aggressive than choke and carb cleaner.

[bbogue1]

Sometimes i just can't get a mold to work correctly, so, I do a little lubing before I get started. wHERE THE SPREWPLATE SWINGS OVER THE TOP OF THE MOLD I sparingly draw a line with a cotton swab (Q tip) loaded with 2 cycle oil between the cavities. Beeswax on the sprew plate bolt head and a little tiny beeswax on the mating outside edges to keep them from sticking together. Don't get anything in the cavities. If the mold still won't perform I let it cool then scrub it with Bar Keepers Friend. Takes everything off, nonabrasive with a good soap content.. Brake cleaner would work. I don't think it would leave a residue since it evaporates fast. What it does leave can be wiped off. Here is it's main ingredient: Tetrachloroethylene (also called perchloroethylene or PERC) is an industrial solvent used for degreasing metals and dry cleaning fabrics. ... Because Tetrachloroethylene is non-flammable and fast drying (through evaporation), it is an ingredient in aerosol solvents, most notably, brake cleaner.

[Walks]

Brake cleaner by itself will take 2-3 times to clean out oil from the cavities.
Does help if you cast 2-3 pours between spray/scrub.

I clean with Dutch Cleanser first, boil in Dawn, Rinse in Boiling Water.
Quick dry with Propane torch.
Then scrub with Brake Cleaner.
Smoke Cavities and go.

Just depends on how much work you want to put into cleaning your mold.

[Walks]

Brake cleaner by itself will take 2-3 times to clean out oil from the cavities.
Does help if you cast 2-3 pours between spray/scrub.

I clean with Dutch Cleanser first, boil in Dawn, Rinse in Boiling Water.
Quick dry with Propane torch.
Then scrub with Brake Cleaner.
Smoke Cavities and go.

Just depends on how much work you want to put into cleaning your mold.

[abunaitoo]

I smoke all my molds.
Never had a problem.
Easy to clean out if nessery.
Spray with brakleen, wash with hot water, soap, toothbrush.
Dry with a propane torch.
Smoke with a BBQ lighter.
Boolets fill out and fall out after mold get up to temp.
If boolets start to stick, just smoke again.

[gwpercle]

Acetone and a tooth brush...remove it and don't use the drop out on mould ...it just mucks them up .

Lots of words typed on the drop out subject...should have asked before using it .

Gary