Lee changed design on the 4-20 [Archive]

slim1836

10-03-2013, 07:23 PM

Could you still mount a pair of vise grips on the top of the stem in order to rotate the stem? That's what I do on my 10 pound LEE pot rather than use a screwdriver.

Slim

462

10-03-2013, 07:24 PM

Easy fix: Cut a slot in the top of the rod.

fryboy

10-03-2013, 07:38 PM

either the slot or a set of double nuts ( makes me want to go look at my spare as it's never even been opened ...)

Lights

10-03-2013, 07:58 PM

Oh there is a slot for a screwdriver in it. The problem is it will change your flow every time you turn it.

frankenfab

10-03-2013, 08:45 PM

el34

10-03-2013, 09:31 PM

Just turn it back and forth, and leave it set at the same place it was. I find I can often stop a drip by just pushing down on the rod anyway.

The new style handle is also a heavy piece of round metal stock instead of wood, keeps more weight on the rod.

Mine is at least 8 months old and has the metal handle like in the picture. Yeah, backnforth oughta do as well as spinning it but mine really doesn't need it much.

I like the shaft directly linked to the lift arm. Sometimes the screw head comes out of the shaft slot and I have to whack it back in place. I've thought about attaching a wood dowel onto the adjustment screw for finger tweaking, when the pot gets low I usually have to bump up the flow.

frankenfab

10-03-2013, 09:56 PM

"I've thought about attaching a wood dowel onto the adjustment screw for finger tweaking, when the pot gets low I usually have to bump up the flow."

Me, too.

Mk42gunner

10-03-2013, 10:24 PM

You let your pot get low?????

Robert

el34

10-03-2013, 10:35 PM

"I've thought about attaching a wood dowel onto the adjustment screw for finger tweaking, when the pot gets low I usually have to bump up the flow."

Me, too.

Great minds think alike! Or so I've heard.

el34

10-03-2013, 10:45 PM

You let your pot get low?????

Robert

About 2 inches deep, plus/minus. I start very full so that throwing sprues back in won't affect the temp much. And add ingots sporadically, sometimes at half-pot. A change from full to half makes a difference in flow rate and for small cavities I start with a fairly gentle stream which turns to a trickle if I don't tweak it up a bit.

I understand the crud thing.

JonB_in_Glencoe

10-04-2013, 10:39 AM

mmm, that's interesting...maybe an improvement :)

Mk42gunner

10-04-2013, 09:05 PM

About 2 inches deep, plus/minus. I start very full so that throwing sprues back in won't affect the temp much. And add ingots sporadically, sometimes at half-pot. A change from full to half makes a difference in flow rate and for small cavities I start with a fairly gentle stream which turns to a trickle if I don't tweak it up a bit.

I understand the crud thing.

I have always tried to keep my 4-20 as close to full as I can while casting. I do let it get down about an inch or so before I start adding the 2-3 pound ingots, but I keep a set of water pump pliers handy to pull the ingot if it looks like it will overflow the pot.

I use angle iron molds for my ingots, anywhere from 8-10½" long.

The picture in the first post finally opened for me tonight. I like the looks of the new design, I remember fiddling with the old design until I got a somewhat workable flow, then leaving it alone.

Robert

Lights

10-05-2013, 12:04 AM

Well got to use the new pot tonight. I did not get one drip. Only time will tell if it is an improvement.

birch

10-06-2013, 09:29 AM

I bought the 4-20 a couple of weeks ago after my 10 pound production pot started giving me little pokes when I touched the handle.

So far, it is PERFECT. I have not had one drop and the difference between the 10 pound pot and the 20 pounder is amazing. I didnt realize what I was missing until I tried this pot. I look at my old production pot and can't believe I ever enjoyed casting with it. I would have to wait a few minutes after adding only 1 pound ingots.

I have no experience with the old design, but the new one blow me away. I am happy I didnt buy the RCBS pot at almost 4 times the price as this Lee

VHoward

10-06-2013, 01:06 PM

It's good to hear that Lee has updated something. I started with a production pot IV and was very disappointed. I then bought the RCBS Pro Melt and have been very happy with it. If I decide I need a second 20 lb pot, I'll give the 4-20 a try.

geargnasher

10-06-2013, 01:25 PM

Hmm. Not sure what to think. I know I don't like the coarse thread pitch on the rod end, doesn't look like the rod will hold adjustment points.

Gear

JonB_in_Glencoe

10-06-2013, 01:58 PM

Hmm. Not sure what to think. I know I don't like the coarse thread pitch on the rod end, doesn't look like the rod will hold adjustment points.

Gear
Maybe ?
But once some corrosion and dross get in the threads, it should hold then

VHoward

10-06-2013, 02:02 PM

Hmm. Not sure what to think. I know I don't like the coarse thread pitch on the rod end, doesn't look like the rod will hold adjustment points.

Gear
A simple solution is a nut to lock it in place if your worried it won't hold it's adjustments. But seeing no rotational forces involved with lifting the handle and letting it down, I don't see why it would lose it's adjustment.

Lights

10-06-2013, 02:11 PM

I just got done casting with it again. It holds it's adjustment just fine. Only had a few drips.

Springfield0612

10-09-2013, 01:08 PM

Awesome! I was just having issues with the old design as the screw was starting to strip out. Has anyone contacted Lee to see if they will sell the parts for this new design? I just put a PID on my Lee 4-20 which was a huge improvement, I also cut a sheet metal lid to help heat retention and cut down on oxidization. I think now if I can get this to replace the valve setup my 4-20 will be a nice and solid pot.

Garyshome

10-09-2013, 01:12 PM

Mine drips some. But I have to adjust the flow some of the time, poor flow gives poor fill out in the mold. Just another adjustment to make while casting. No big deal.

VHoward

10-09-2013, 09:01 PM

I have to make fine adjustment to flow on my RCBS Pro Melt. It's a function of pressure of amaount of lead left in the pot. You either have to increase flow as the pot empties, or just keep it full. I'll use 3/4 of the pot before I refill.

prs

10-10-2013, 12:45 PM

Those of you with the new style "C" frame and valve rod, did your pot come with a parts list? Lee has yet to list the new parts on their site. Some of us might consider making the modification to the new style if we had the parts' numbers.

prs

frankenfab

10-10-2013, 01:03 PM

Houndog

10-10-2013, 03:32 PM

I just called Lee and ordered the parts to update my old 4-20 to the new style valve rod and lift arm assembly. The cost was $10 plus shipping. I also suggested they make the updated parts into a retrofit kit for the older model melters.

frankenfab

10-11-2013, 09:51 AM

EL3426 valve arm assy
FE3464 8-32 carriage bolt
EM1120 valve knob
EL3427 valve rod

The valve arm assy might contain the bolt and handle, not sure.

The shoulder bolt that the assembly slides up an down on is EL3444 (need 2)

Springfield0612

10-11-2013, 02:46 PM

frankenfab,
Thanks for the parts numbers. I've emailed Lee and FSreloading.com. Neither have responded back to me. When I typed in EL3426 into the Lee site it shows a picture of the old style. Same for EL3427. When I get a word back from either site I'll post results.

Thanks!

Houndog

10-18-2013, 09:25 PM

I just got my new parts from Lee tonight. The knob for the lift arm doesn't come with the lift arm, and the only difference I can see in the lift arm is the hole for the valve rod has been threaded. I HAVE NOT checked the diameter of the hole for the old valve rod, but I think it could be threaded and the new style valve rod used in place of the old one. If I'm right, one would only have to purchase the new style valve rod, tap the hole for the original one, screw the new rod in the original holder and be ready for business. I intend to assemble mine with a very thin jam nut (or preferably one top and bottom if space permits) to securely lock things in position. I think this new setup is FAR superior to the original! It looks to me Lee has came up with a better system without breaking the bank! GOOD for them!

Lights

10-18-2013, 11:15 PM

Houndog, I think your jam nut idea may be a problem. The rod may not float well enough with it to find home and seal off correctly.

prs

10-20-2013, 09:44 PM

you need to be able to re-adjust as the pot depletes the lead supply.

prs

Houndog

10-21-2013, 07:29 AM

I put mine together with the two jam nuts and had no problems with it, BUT doing things that way makes fast readjustment of the flow a pain. I got NO drips at all! I just set the valve rod to flow what I wanted with the pot about 1/2 full and left it at that. Time will tell if this turns out better or not!

Springfield0612

10-21-2013, 05:47 PM

I had to fiddle with my valve rod and set screw last night wasting many valuable minutes of casting time. My set screw that adjusts the flow, the threads are partially stripped and allow the screw to wobble and not catch the channel on the top of the valve rod. This results in either no lead flow, reduced lead flow, or me getting pissed off and walking away.
I was thinking of putting a little JB weld onto the threads and re-tapping the threads to see if this will help. Maybe some solder instead of apoxy?