Handi-Rifle, how to fit barrel?

[Tatume]

Hello Folks,

H&R says Handi-Rifle accessory barrels must be fitted at the factory. Does anybody here know what is involved in fitting? The reason I ask is I have a 223 Rem barrel that I would like to sell or trade, and I want to be upfront with a potential buyer or trader.

Thanks, Tom

[Lead Fred]

If that barrel fits a SP1 frame, you can do it at home.
If its an SP2, then off to the factory it goes.
Gray Beards would be the place to find out

[Tatume]

Hi Fred,

What's the difference between the barrels (I know about SP1 and SP2 frames)?

Thanks, Tom

[Goatwhiskers]

Basically speaking, the SB-1 frame is cast iron and is used for shotguns and a few other cartridges such as .357 and .44 Mag. They most often have a larger firing pin which can cause primer flow and hangups. That frame is not, repeat not recommended for higher power cartridges, cast iron does not stretch, it fragments in a rather violent way. The SB-2 frame is investment cast heat treated steel with a smaller firing pin suitable for most any rifle cartridges EXCEPT magnums. There is a ton of info on fitting barrels on the graybeard forum in the Handi section. Most barrels will fit correctly but the adjustments can be made by anyone with the knowledge and basic mechanical ability. The .223 barrel would only be suitable on an SB-2 frame, it may well fit on someone's SB-1 but that person should make sure there insurance is paid up. Hope this helps. GW

Edit: Tatume, the barrels and underlugs are all the same except some are extractor rather than ejector. GW

[Gtek]

As stated above on application criteria 1-2 frames, just put in ad or explain to be installed and inspected by a qualified gunsmith. I have swapped a few and usually they are pretty or real close and usually fit as well or close as they ship out the door, but if you are not familiar with them to confirm shelf, lock up and headspace, who knows, some people can break rocks. They (H&R, MARLIN, CERBERUS, or who ever they are) require return for fitting of new barrel in which they buzz pencil S/N in barrel due to the I am sure liability issues. I pick up shotgun barrels to stub for rifle calibers, just C-Y-A when it leaves. Gtek

[MT Gianni]

Many believe that fitting at the factory involves taking a few bbls until you get the proper headspace. IIRC, you close a cartridge in the new bbl in your frame with a .001" feeler gauge @ the rear of the cartridge. If you can remove it try a .002 until you get to the proper headspace. If it is too tight you can relieve things by shimming the bbl with cut materiel from a pop can. Greybeards site will have the specs to follow.

[leftiye]

Since you can't move the underlug nor the pivot cutout, first consideration is whether it fits your frame - engages the pivot rod and closes tight against the breech face. Slight back track - if and only if it will not close (too long between breech face and pivot pin), then you can recut the pivot pin semi circle or rear of barrel to have proper breeching length. I'll leave it at that - it ain't real easy to do. You can weld the semicircle up if it is too short and case harden it after fitting, but thas a PITA too. Other than this, you must grind the locking lug shelf (that holds breech closed) on the new barrel to fit the locking lug that is already fitted to the breech and previous barrel/s. Shelf is hardened, and has a precise angle it must be. If no other barrels are to be used with the frame, then as long as the locking lug won't close it can be ground to fit. When getting multiple frames to exchange barrels, you must cut the locking lug on the new frame to work with an old barrel's locking lug shelf. Having enough metal in the first place to be able to cut to fit is the key.

Head spacing must be checked, if chamber is too deep, you can remove metal from rear of barrel, this may make it necessary to weld up the pivot bolt semicircle on the front of the underlug. Obviously, if the chamber is too shallow, you can deepen the chamber as needed with a reamer. Check this first to be sure you have a useable barrel, and to figure out how best to order the operations you'll perform. If for instance, the barrel will not close on the frame (too long), and the chamber is too deep, a little might be cut from the rear of the barrel to get it to close, then re check the headspace, and the locking length. Best to measure first (ya think?).

[Tatume]

Hmmm. Sounds like I should keep the barrel and use it for a stub for a custom barrel. Thanks fellows. Take care, Tom

[curator]

Tatume:

Go to the Greybeard site and ask the guys who do this all the time: http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/profile/?u=8418

I have bought Handi-rifle barrels at yard sales and they fit just fine about 95% of the time, locking up solidly and headspacing perfectly. Some NEF/H&R frames are wierd and may not meet general specifications, but that is the exception, not the rule.