T/C hawken flintlock rifle

[mister c]

where can I get info on assemble/disassembly of hawken flintlock rifle?...Thankyou

[fouronesix]

Most all ML sidelocks operate in about the same way. They are really pretty simple machines and can be taken apart and put back together without much hassle. For regular types with a hairpin mainspring, no problem with a spring vise.

The real bugger with T/Cs is their coil mainspring with the internal captured guide rod. I use a vise to hold the lock plate and a set of heavy needle nose pliers dedicated for that purpose. Your best bet would be to find a gunsmith or even half way "gunsmithy" friend to help take it apart and put it back together the first time. Again, finding a reliable way to remove and re-install that coil mainspring is the only bugger.

Fixing or tuning them is a different issue.

[Lead Fred]

Only thing your ever gonna have to take a part is the lock.
Two screws and its off. You will need a main spring vise to take the lock a part.
Dont try it without it. You may get it a part with some channel locks, but you will not get it back together.

[fouronesix]

Actually, one screw and it's off and I don't know of a spring vise available that will work on a T/C coil mainspring- unless you know someone who used to work in the T/C service shop :)

Short of having one of those, two ways to do it. 1) Use large, dedicated needle nose pliers. Grind a recess near the tip, between the jaws to grab and hold the spring center rod tip teat next to the tumbler. Put the lock plate into a vise. Grab the teat with the pliers, compress the spring (requires strength and control) and lift slightly away from the tumbler plate to release. 2) Use dedicated "water pump" pliers (channel locks). Drill a hole in one jaw to allow spring center rod to pass through and grind a concave to secure to the round boss that the spring center rod passes through. Cut and grind a slot into the opposite jaw to securely slip around the spring center rod tip teat.

Either way will work. I chose to modify a large pair of needle nose- good water pump pliers are much more expensive.

[mister c]

I cleaned everything out, lubed the lock and the trigger assembly but the set trigger does not work. I'm doing something wrong on assy........mr. c.

[Anonym]

Check adjustment screw between the triggers. Too far one way or the other and they won't work properly...

[fouronesix]

Usually the adjustment screw (little screw between the triggers) is set too far in. Try turning it most all the way out. Then see if it works. Hopefully nothing's broken or worn out.

If it's not the adjustment screw you may have reversed the overlap of the set sear. Take the trigger out of the stock and have a look see. The trigger will work when out and it can be tested. I know that when re-assembling those you have to depress a spring (kind of awkward) while at the same time getting the front and rear trigger engagement sears together in the right position.

Check back in with status and results. If it's still no go- I can pull a T/C trigger out and go step by step for assembly.

[mister c]

O>K> I held the tension on trigger and reinstalled the trigger assy and tried several times and now seems to work OK. I'll take it to the range a give it some live shots. I want to thank everybody for all the help. again THANKS...mister c.

[fouronesix]

Hope all is well with the trigger. I test them by putting two fingers in, pull the set trigger, and with that finger still lightly on the set trigger, pull the front trigger. Should be a pretty good snap as the set trigger sear releases. Then it's just a matter of the trigger bar making good contact with the sear bar and releasing the sear notch on the tumbler.

Using a finger as a "buffer" on the set may help prevent damage from the slam as the front is released.

[mister c]

I'll run that through also fouronsix,thanks again...............mister c.......................ps I just received a product call STEELSHIELDWEAPONlub,cleaner and rust preventer preservative. good to 40 deg below zero. any take on this?...................mister c

[fouronesix]

Steelshield... ?
No idea, but sounds like one of the multitude of new generation multi-purpose lubes. If you get some and try it you might report back about results.
For ML locks and triggers I don't put too much on. Usually just a light weight gun oil of some type.

For ML/blackpowder purposes other than lubing the locks/triggers, I have tried quite a few different ones for basic lube and anti corrosion or rust protection after shooting BP. Most any decent oil works IF the metal has been thoroughly cleaned of all traces of BP fouling (would also apply to the various BP subs). For long term storage I've used CLP for a long time and have no complaints. I think one of the more recent is MPro7. I've been trying it lately to see how it works. Seems to have all the qualities of CLP but is supposed to be an upgrade of CLP. I know many use Eezox for rust protection and swear by it.

One other thing I've found with some of the hi-tech lubes and preservatives is that they are actually absorbed into the skin and you'll be tasting and smelling them for a day or two after use. MPro7 is one that really stays with you. Don't know about the long term health implications?? Maybe I'm too old to care at this point. :)

[mister c]

thnx for the lub info and yeah I'm pushing 79, no sence worrying to much now................mister c

[Lead Fred]

I cleaned everything out, lubed the lock and the trigger assembly but the set trigger does not work. I'm doing something wrong on assy........mr. c.

when you put the lock back on, or the trigger back it, did you see the little dangley piece of metal on the lock is in front of the trigger spur

[mister c]

YEP I did..............................mister c.