22 de rimming die

[junkman1967]

This is going to be my entry into the world of swaging. I want to start with 22 cal bullets for my 223 and 22-250. I want to make all of the tools myself. The first one up is a 22 de-rim die. I am at the point where I need to know what size hole to put in the female portion of the die that will de-rim the cases cleanly. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Joe

[Reload3006]

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/reload3006/DRAWDIE.jpg (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/reload3006/media/DRAWDIE.jpg.html)

[junkman1967]

Thank you very much for that drawing. This is what I made so far. Now I can continue.

[Prospector Howard]

That's a good drawing of a derim die, but here's something to consider. The angle of the entrance at 45 degrees is pretty steep. I guess that's what most of the die makers are doing? I made another die quite awhile ago with the entrance at 22 degrees. The transition is much smoother when derimming with a more shallow angle, when you start it into the die.

[Zymurgy50]

Unless you download the 22-250 to 223 velocities don't expect the bullet to hold together long enough to reach the target in the 22-250.
Suggested velocities for the rimfire jackets are less than 3100-3000 fps.

[junkman1967]

For what I am shooting 3000 fps should be fine. Thanks for the info.

[Cane_man]

right on junkman i see you got the party started... my prediction is that you are going to get addicted to swage die making :drinks:

[ProfGAB101]

You need to use a radius spot drill.

For a 22 cal the #5 is the closest choice with a tip dia. of .1875"

A KEO (brand) p/n 10510 is the ticket. Here is a link for MSC http://www.mscdirect.com/product/71048052?rItem=71048052

[supe47]

zymurgy50- For what it's worth, I've taken my 22LR jacketed 22 cals up to a bit over 3500 fps with my 223's. With the thinner jackets it's not velocity that's the bullet killer, it's the rpms. I lost about 3 in 50 at 3500 fps but that's a 223 with a 1-9 twist. Rpms were right at 280,000. Best accuracy for me was at 3100 fps and about 248,000 rpm. I have a 22-250 at my dealer but have to wait a bit to do paperwork. It's a 1-12" and I'm sure I can take 'em over 4000 fps. (4000 fps in a 1-12"= 240,000 rpms)
Supe

[junkman1967]

Thanks for all the info and inspiration.

Cane, its too late. Lol :)

Prof, what is the special drill needed for?

[junkman1967]

Oh its a center drill. I have those :)

[ProfGAB101]

Oh its a center drill. I have those :)

No its not a center drill. A center drill is used as a spot drill or to put a point relieved angle on center to accept a center support.

This is a spotting drill which makes a radiused funnel shape vrs a fixed angle. It could also be considered a type of plunge form tool. The radius is near perfect tangent at the point margin. Use the closest size or program the rough and finish profile and use a CNC lathe to cut a radius lead in with a good Micro100 mini bar then polish with fine emery #800 and up and it will work soooo slick.

And actually on second thought - if you are doing this on a good solid manual lathe then a #6 would put you even closer with a 7/32" point margin. ( thats .21875" so your at your ream size ready for polish. )

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/71048060

Zoom in on the end if you need to - there is no transition from straight drill to a counter sink type angle, it is one continuous radius.

[Hickory]

No its not a center drill.
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/71048060
Zoom in on the end if you need to - there is no transition from straight drill to a counter sink type angle, it is one continuous radius.

Your link is worthless. (To me)
I refuse to spend 45 minutes to an hour looking.

[junkman1967]

Thanks for the info Prof.

[Hickory]

Checked out the link on the home computer and it works.
I guess the Kindle has its draw backs.

[squished]

Nice work.

Can you say what steel was used for the die and if it was heat treated? Was the critical .220 polished after heat treat?

Thanks

[junkman1967]

Still working on it. I will post details when completed. The die is made from 7/8-14 threaded rod. I will more than likely heat treat, then polish the ID.

[junkman1967]

Well when I was drilling the center hole, somehow it got off center on one end. UGH! I am going to machine another one, but it may take me a few days to calm down from ruining this one. :(

[Reload3006]

dont drill your small hole all the way through. going that far you drill unless ground perfect will walk. So drill in one end with the small drill about 1 to 1.5 inches deep then turn around and drill the counter bore to the printed depth. The counter bore does two things for you it makes manufacturing easier and will also strip the 22lr brass off of your derim punch

[sprinkintime]

Well when I was drilling the center hole, somehow it got off center on one end. UGH! I am going to machine another one, but it may take me a few days to calm down from ruining this one. :(

I don't know what angle you have on your drill, if it 118 degree try a 135 degree, I think you will stay on center better and don't force it clean the chips out of the drill often, this will help from the drill walking.

[junkman1967]

I think I just need to do like 3006 said. I tried to drill all the way with the small diameter drill and it wasnt stiff enough and walked. Luckily I have several feet of that threaded rod :) Thanks everyone for your help.

[Utah Shooter]

zymurgy50- For what it's worth, I've taken my 22LR jacketed 22 cals up to a bit over 3500 fps with my 223's. With the thinner jackets it's not velocity that's the bullet killer, it's the rpms. I lost about 3 in 50 at 3500 fps but that's a 223 with a 1-9 twist. Rpms were right at 280,000. Best accuracy for me was at 3100 fps and about 248,000 rpm. I have a 22-250 at my dealer but have to wait a bit to do paperwork. It's a 1-12" and I'm sure I can take 'em over 4000 fps. (4000 fps in a 1-12"= 240,000 rpms)
Supe

Yep, yep....... This is a very common misconception. I think people should try it before repeating certain things.