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View Full Version : 1 in 48 twist Boolit recommendations



ArizonaFlinter
09-23-2013, 07:20 PM
I got a like new (only missing the front blade sight) CVA Frontier Carbine 50 which Google results indicate it has a 1:48 twist. Google results also indicates this is a bit fast for patched balls. Then what boolits to use. Also, what powder / charge to use. Any suggestions.

GARD72977
09-23-2013, 07:39 PM
That twist is in between RB and Conical bullets. I will shoot a RB but may like a lighter charge. I would start a 40-45gr and work up. Im not a Sabot / Conical shooter so no real info there. I will say that you want the shortest bullet you can find. Maybe a sabot with a pistol bullet

roverboy
09-23-2013, 07:51 PM
It won't be really expensive to experiment some with it. Some 1:48 rifles will shoot several different bullets or patched round balls accurately. I knew a guy years ago that had a Renegade that shot pretty much any thing great. It had a 1:48 twist. Try some Maxi-Balls, Maxi-Hunters, Hornady Great Plains, or whatever you like. Let us know how it does.

mooman76
09-23-2013, 10:04 PM
Mine shot Lee REALs real good and RBs too for that matter.

johnson1942
09-23-2013, 10:16 PM
excess 650 has it down 100 percent. follow his advice and you will have what you want

HARRYMPOPE
09-23-2013, 10:45 PM
1-48" twist 50cal is a pretty good compromise. PRBs over 70gr fffg, sabots with 240-270gr over 90gr fffg, 370gr Maxi-balls over 80gr ffg, Lee 250gr Real over up to 90gr fffg.

My experience also.Depth of rifling also might play a part in how well the RB shoots.My 1-32 .50 has deep rifling and will shoot RB pretty well.It will go to about 80g of FFF before it gets haywire.

1-48 is not a "compromise" twist BTW it is correct for a Hawkins.

George

ArizonaFlinter
09-23-2013, 11:22 PM
Mine shot Lee REALs real good and RBs too for that matter.

Is that the 250 gr or the 320 gr REALs? I have molds for 320 gr REALs. Unfortunately, before I can test any of this good information, I need to find a front sifht. Looking for that. Thanks

ArizonaFlinter
09-24-2013, 02:01 PM
My experience also.Depth of rifling also might play a part in how well the RB shoots.My 1-32 .50 has deep rifling and will shoot RB pretty well.It will go to about 80g of FFF before it gets haywire.

1-48 is not a "compromise" twist BTW it is correct for a Hawkins.


George

Then that means my CVA Hawkins Flint Lock (which I thought was 1-60 something) can use boolits other than patched balls. Thanks, great information.

fouronesix
09-24-2013, 02:16 PM
A Flinter,
I don't think a solid base conical will work so well in a 60" twist- unless it is a pretty short conical and that may be marginal. The best thing to do would be to check the twist as it may be something other than a 60" roundball twist.

As to your 50 caliber 48" twist rifle. Try this. Something I spent a lot of time on 37 years ago. Get some or get a mold for the 50 cal Maxiball. Get some or get a punch for cutting 1/2" x .030-.060" card wads. Load 80 gr FFF blackpowder. Seat a card wad on top of the powder. Load a pure lead Maxiball lubed with soft lube (I like Crisco smeared on with my finger). Use a regular #11 or #11 Mag cap (I like CCI). Use good sights. Set target up at 50 yards with about a 3" black bull and shoot off a good rest. Clean between shots.

Since I don't shoot my T/Cs much anymore, I had to dig this target out of a big pile. I think I shot it a year or two ago. Three shots 50 yards, T/C 50 cal Hawken 48" twist, loaded as above with a T/C Maxiball from a mid-70s T/C mold.

roverboy
09-24-2013, 06:42 PM
Fouronesix, there's nothing wrong with that rifle or load. You got a awesome setup there. What sight do you have there?

fouronesix
09-24-2013, 06:57 PM
I've had maybe 8 or 10 different T/C Hawken rifles over the years including a couple of Senecas and Renegades. A few years ago I sold the last T/C I had. But along the way I accumulated various sights including some T/C tang apertures and blade front sights. About 4 years ago found this used 50 cal Hawken with a very good bore for a good price. Put one of the T/C tang apertures and a medium width blade front on it. I think the aperture dia is about .045-.050". After setting it up decided to verify that Maxiball load I'd worked up years ago- took it out and yes that load is still a good one.

I remember also working up a 45 cal Maxiball load for a Seneca I had and everything else was the same as in the 50 cal load except my best charge IIRC was about 55-60 gr FFF. And I do remember winning several "butterballs" with that Seneca/Maxiball combination during the turkey shoots held annually where I lived at the time.

Here's the front blade on the 50 that seems to work extremely well for me in combination with the rear aperture. I don't think it is a T/C but one I got from Track.

ArizonaFlinter
09-24-2013, 07:52 PM
Fouronesix, I thought my CVA Hawkins Flintlock had a 1-60 something twist which tended to restrict it to patched RBs. I got it mostly for a wall hanger. On further research I find it is a 1-48 which opens us some serious hunting options.

On your 50 cal Maxiball. 030-.060" card wads. Load of 80 gr FFF blackpowder target. All I can say is that 50+ years ago my chess mentor told me that you never argue a won game. That target definitely shows a won game. When I decide on my missing front sight replacement, I will try that recipe. Thanks

Lead Fred
09-24-2013, 07:59 PM
1/48 means its kind good at everything, and not real good at anything.
conicals will work best, and if your using 80gr of powder, your wasting unburnt powder out the barrel.

ArizonaFlinter
09-24-2013, 08:24 PM
1-48" twist 50cal is a pretty good compromise. PRBs over 70gr fffg, sabots with 240-270gr over 90gr fffg, 370gr Maxi-balls over 80gr ffg, Lee 250gr Real over up to 90gr fffg.

excess650 You have my attention.

fouronesix
09-24-2013, 08:44 PM
Fouronesix, I thought my CVA Hawkins Flintlock had a 1-60 something twist which tended to restrict it to patched RBs. I got it mostly for a wall hanger. On further research I find it is a 1-48 which opens us some serious hunting options.

On your 50 cal Maxiball. 030-.060" card wads. Load of 80 gr FFF blackpowder target. All I can say is that 50+ years ago my chess mentor told me that you never argue a won game. That target definitely shows a won game. When I decide on my missing front sight replacement, I will try that recipe. Thanks

With the 48" twist, I've also shot some very impressive groups with the patched roundball in the 45s and 50s. Over time one thing I've noticed about the 48" twist rifles shooting patched roundballs is that they are a little more picky about getting really top accuracy- requiring some trial and error. But it can be done.

Most all my muzzleloaders now are either one's I've built in 45, 50 and 54 calibers or older rifled musket types in 54, 577/58 and 69 calibers. The one's I've built have been specifically roundball slower twist rifles and the muskets are by nature slow twist minié shooters.

mooman76
09-24-2013, 09:20 PM
Is that the 250 gr or the 320 gr REALs? I have molds for 320 gr REALs. Unfortunately, before I can test any of this good information, I need to find a front sifht. Looking for that. Thanks

That be the 320gr.

ArizonaFlinter
09-24-2013, 10:45 PM
That be the 320gr.

mooman76, thanks. I already have the 320gr mold. You just saved me some money. One more thing. The REALs claim the be .517. This seems a bit large as my in-lines have proven to be .503. Do you run these through a sizing die?

HARRYMPOPE
09-24-2013, 11:05 PM
1/48 means its kind good at everything, and not real good at anything.
conicals will work best, and if your using 80gr of powder, your wasting unburnt powder out the barrel.

You are repeating often repeated wives tales.My 1-48 TC 54 shoots great with RB and so so with conicals.My 1-32 50 shoots good with RB and conicals.My TC .50 slow twist deep rifled Pennsylvania never shot as well as my 1-32 Lyman with RB but shot the Lee REAL equally well.Rifling depth is often the deciding factor.I am talking sporting rifles here, match rifles are to their own and very twist specific to the bullet it is designed to shoot.

Lead Fred
09-25-2013, 12:24 AM
Let put that 1/48 against a 1/60 and see how it stacks up. (With PRB)
Ive been shooting BP since LBJ was pres, well maybe Nixon, and I have not owned anything faster than 1/60 since the 70s.

When Im hunting, OK dont cut it, right on does.

In certain BP circles they call 1/48 the half donkey twist for a reason.
builders, they are so finicky. I wonder why they dont build 1/48 semi & custom guns for PRB.

mooman76
09-25-2013, 11:29 PM
mooman76, thanks. I already have the 320gr mold. You just saved me some money. One more thing. The REALs claim the be .517. This seems a bit large as my in-lines have proven to be .503. Do you run these through a sizing die?

The REALs should be coming out about .517 but only at the top driving band. The bottom should be about .503 and the middle somewhere in between. They mad it this way for easier loading and no I do not size. If you shoot quite a few a mallet could be a handy thing. I'd have a sore palm if I loaded many.

rodwha
09-26-2013, 01:18 PM
My .50 cal Lyman's Deerstalker with the deep grooved 1:48" twist shoots PRB well. .490" RB and 0.015" patch.

For your slow twist you can try the Hornady 240 grn PA conicals. There were designed with a slow twist in mind.