7.62x54r

[shaper]

A gun show will be in my area this next weekend. I want to buy a can of military ammo for my Mossin Nagant. I have heard that not all of the military cartridges are corrosive. So what do I look for? Which countrey made the no corrosive ammo?

[texassako]

I do not know of any military surplus in 7.62x54r that is not corrosive. Some of the bulk new production non corrosive Russian ammo is packaged a bit like repackaged surplus.

[Hang Fire]

A gun show will be in my area this next weekend. I want to buy a can of military ammo for my Mossin Nagant. I have heard that not all of the military cartridges are corrosive. So what do I look for? Which countrey made the no corrosive ammo?

Firing corrosive ammo is no worse that using noncorrosive, it is not cleaning the weapon correctly after firing is where the damage occurs.

After using corrosive ammo, clean well with water first, then dry, lube and done.

[nagantguy]

Never heard tell of mil surp nagant ammo that was not corrosive, lots of rifles chambered for it are still around and in good shape, don't be scared of it just give the old girl a bath when she's dirty.

[Lead Fred]

I bought 500 reloadable 182gr PPU rounds, just to avoid the old primer problems.

My PU will never have milsurp fired though it, while I own it.

[daengmei]

just to avoid the old primer problems.

Exactly how does "operator error" equal primer problem? Not trying to be a wise crack but that is exactly how new shooters are put off. Corrosive primers are not a reason to not use the surplus ammo. Not cleaned correctly is the problem. Or maybe it is the "I can wait till whenever" that appeals to so many. Another shortcut....

[Outpost75]

ALL steel cased, Berdan primed Combloc 7.62x54R ball ammo, regardless of country of origin is corrosive.

Almost all brass cased Berdan primed 7.62x54R ammo is corrosive.

There is no such thing as "slightly" corrosive, it either is, or it isn't, just like being "a little bit pregnant"....

The only reliable source of noncorrosive ammo is either new production or post 1980 manufacture Boxer primed ammo from IK, nny, PPU, Norma, Sako, RWS, Winchester.

As a general rule, if the ammo has brass cases and is Boxer primed with reloadable brass, it is probably non-corrosive.

[shaper]

OK, I'll stop worrying about the military ammo, and just buy a 440 count can with the best price I can find.
I'll also sharpen my skills at cleaning the same day I shoot it.
thanks guys.

[N4AUD]

I clean my firearms after using corrosive ammo (and blackpowder) with boiling hot soapy water then rise with clean boiling water, then oil. Never had a problem. The hot water evaporates quickly.

[aspangler]

Shoot a little Windex with ammonia down the bore and follow with a patch wet with Windex. This will kill the corrosive salts. then clean normally and lube the bore and you will be ok with any of the milsurp ammo.

[ballistim]

Shoot a little Windex with ammonia down the bore and follow with a patch wet with Windex. This will kill the corrosive salts. then clean normally and lube the bore and you will be ok with any of the milsurp ammo.

This is the way a guy I met in '98 selling MN's at a local gun show told me to do and my brand new Polish 44 that I bought then still has a beautiful bore using only corrosive since the day it was bought, and both my 91/30's aren't any worse for wear using this method.

[tomme boy]

While you are still at the range. run a couple of DRY patches down the barrel. This will take out about 80% of the nasty stuff. Then when you get home clean like normal. Come back the next day and clean it again. What is so hard about that? You don't need water. But that is the best way to take care of the salts that are from the primers. Windex is just water blue water so skip it. If you have to use it, go to the sink and pour some water in a jug and add some food coloring to the water to match the windex to make you feel good.

Brush or patch it out before you wet it will speed the cleaning. Try it. Since I started doing this, I only use about 4 patches when I used to use about 10.

[nicholst55]

Shoot a little Windex with ammonia down the bore and follow with a patch wet with Windex. This will kill the corrosive salts. then clean normally and lube the bore and you will be ok with any of the milsurp ammo.

I have issues with this method. Nothing personal, you understand. First, you cannot "kill" corrosive salts. They must be physically removed. Second, a 'little' Windex/water/whatever probably won't do the job. You need to flush the bore with whatever you use. Third, this method does absolutely nothing for the corrosive gases that have coated the bolt face, firing pin tip, and exterior of the muzzle.

After firing corrosive ammo I flush the bore with hot (usually soapy) water, then rinse with more hot water. I disassemble the bolt and wash the bolt face and firing pin with hot water, then I wash off all exposed metal at the muzzle. Once dry, clean and lube as for noncorrosive ammo and reassemble. I have never experienced rust caused by firing corrosive primed ammo.

I personally regard the recommendation to 'squirt a little Windex down the bore' as a shortcut that will eventually lead to a ruined rifle. Just MHO; take it for what it's worth.

[ukrifleman]

I clean my firearms after using corrosive ammo (and blackpowder) with boiling hot soapy water then rise with clean boiling water, then oil. Never had a problem. The hot water evaporates quickly.

Water, water, water! 600 years of cleaning corrosive substances out of bores can't be wrong.
Flush with water, patch out, then patch out with WD40 to remove any residual moisture then lube. Job done.
ukrifleman.

[bruce drake]

Water, water, water! 600 years of cleaning corrosive substances out of bores can't be wrong.
Flush with water, patch out, then patch out with WD40 to remove any residual moisture then lube. Job done.
ukrifleman.

Yep, Probably the best advice so far. A little elbow grease with the cleaning rod counteracts a lot.

Bruce

[ballistim]

Water, water, water! 600 years of cleaning corrosive substances out of bores can't be wrong.
Flush with water, patch out, then patch out with WD40 to remove any residual moisture then lube. Job done.
ukrifleman.

I DO use this method with black powder, and the Windex with corrosive.

[Lead Fred]

Exactly how does "operator error" equal primer problem? Not trying to be a wise crack but that is exactly how new shooters are put off.

This is personal preference.

I choose to skip the extra cleaning step. You cant always get all of it out, with out spending more time than I care to. My 91/30 PU is new, and I choose to keep it that way.

Besides Im a precision shooter, I dont use any milsurp ammo period. I reload everything.

[HARRYMPOPE]

This is personal preference.

My 91/30 PU is new, and I choose to keep it that way.

Besides Im a precision shooter, I dont use any milsurp ammo period. I reload everything.

Precision=PU ???

Funny

[Jack Stanley]

Flushing with water is about the best advice yet but I'll say up front I really don't like having to clean them right away . To get around that problem I wait for a day when I don't have anything pressing then spend the day at the range and shoot as much as I want . Before leaving I do squirt some home made water based cleaner to flush out as much as a squirt bottle can . When it stops dripping I wrap a rag around the muzzle , take it home and clean it right . Since my home made mix has a little ammonia in it it does help work on jacket fouling .

Clean it , dry it , check on it the next day and still have bores as nice as the day the commies turned 'em in for a new AK . Now that I have laid in a stash of boxer primers cases and my milsurp ammo for the Mosin is gone I won't have to fuss with it . Another couple thousand rounds of Mauser ammo and I'll be done with that ...... might take a few years though .

Jack

[Outpost75]

I use a cotton bore mop wet with water through the bore while at the range so it us still warm. Rinse out the mop, wet again and repeat, then flush mop with Ed's Red, pass through the bore a couple times and leave slopy wet for the drive home. No later than the next day disassemble bolt and clean bore, etc. normally with Mil-C372B or Ed's Red. No rust issues

[alamogunr]

Here's an article that outlines how to clean after corrosive ammo.

http://www.empirearms.com/clean.htm

Obviously not the only way.

[Lead Fred]

Precision=PU ???

Funny

Hey I can hit the narrow side of the barn!

[390ish]

I put my finger on the muzzle and fill it up with water on the breech side. Remove finger to drain, then two dry patches and off to the races with wipe-out and finish with ATF.

[starnbar]

I still have a couple of gallons of the GI bore cleaner use it on all the mil surplus ammo and my bp rifle too. Just make sure you oil the bore good when done cleaning.

[Lead Fred]

A. So what do I look for? Which countrey made the no corrosive ammo?

All milsurp commie ammo has berdan corrosive primers.

There are aftermarket commie ammo brands that are not, but they will cost more than milsurp.

Brands like Bear, Wolf, and PPU (what I use) are export ammo that is made for sale here and is built with regular primers.
I choose PPU because they are reloadable brass, where the others use steel cases which most folks throw away.

[andreadavide]

Given the diet of corrosive my Mosins received during their operative life and the still excellent condition of their bores all I can say is that if Ivan in Stalingrad could mantain his rifle despite the quality of ammo, I can do even better in the comfort of my local shooting range.

[opos]

Take the 15 minutes to completely tear down the bolt on the Mosin..simple task and clean and lube the firing pin,the spring, and clean it all up...lots of folks forget the corrosive salts can attack the bolt interior...I clean the whole shebang with warm soapy water...rinse really well...dry as best I can...use Hoppe's 9 in a normal cleaning...lube...all are still like new. I will carry a squeeze bottle of Windex with Ammonia with me and If I am going to be a while getting home I squirt some down the bore and into the bolt face...I patch with a Windex wet patch and then run a dry one through...think it gives a bit of protection till that night when I can clean it...or if all else fails...do like the Russian soldiers did...urinate down the bore and all over the bolt and wipe it down...the ammonia kills the salts...wash up before dinner.

[jonk]

Advice on ammo has turned into a lecture on how to clean after shooting corrosive ammo.

Buy whatever ammo you'd like. You won't know how it will shoot in YOUR gun until you try it. I have several mosins; some shoot one type well, others do lousy with that type.

To the general cleaning issue, people will recommend windex, ammonia, WW2 GI bore cleaner, water, ballistol and water, whatever. All of the above work for one reason; the 'corrosive' part of corrosive primers is potassium chlorate residue- i.e. it is a salt. Salt is in and of itself NOT corrosive, but IS hygroscopic- it attracts moisture, and holds it. If you live in the desert and humidity is under 30 percent all the time, you don't have to worry about corrosive primers. Otherwise, you have to remove the salt. Back to our gallery of potential cleaners- they work because they have water in them. If it is the water doing the work- ideally with some detergent as a wetting agent- then it stands to reason that the solution with the most water- i.e. water itself- is the best. It dissolves the salts, and rinses them away. If you want to use a touch of ammonia for jacket fouling help, fine, but don't fall into the trap of thinking that windex or ammonia or something magically neutralizes corrosive fouling. As for the GI cleaner and Ballistol/water mix, they have the advantage of also having a water soluble oil mixed in, so they provide some preservative action as well. But the cleaning part is, was, and always will be water.

[Janoosh]

+1 jonk...well said..sometime in the life of most WW2 era firearms....corrosive ammo was used. And the firearm you have now, was cleared of corrosive agents...well, most were. There is nothing to fear from milsurp corrosive ammo...just treat your firearm right!

[dnotarianni]

People It's a Nagant from mother russia. Stick on the bayonet, pull the bolt, Stick the bayonet in the ground and piss down the barrel. All done.
dave

[slim1836]

:bigsmyl2:
People It's a Nagant from mother russia. Stick on the bayonet, pull the bolt, Stick the bayonet in the ground and piss down the barrel. All done.
dave

Best response I've read.

[161]

:bigsmyl2:

Best response I've read.
Try to keep it off the stock. Gets ta stinkin in hot weather.

[opos]

Advice on ammo has turned into a lecture on how to clean after shooting corrosive ammo.

Buy whatever ammo you'd like. You won't know how it will shoot in YOUR gun until you try it. I have several mosins; some shoot one type well, others do lousy with that type.

To the general cleaning issue, people will recommend windex, ammonia, WW2 GI bore cleaner, water, ballistol and water, whatever. All of the above work for one reason; the 'corrosive' part of corrosive primers is potassium chlorate residue- i.e. it is a salt. Salt is in and of itself NOT corrosive, but IS hygroscopic- it attracts moisture, and holds it. If you live in the desert and humidity is under 30 percent all the time, you don't have to worry about corrosive primers. Otherwise, you have to remove the salt. Back to our gallery of potential cleaners- they work because they have water in them. If it is the water doing the work- ideally with some detergent as a wetting agent- then it stands to reason that the solution with the most water- i.e. water itself- is the best. It dissolves the salts, and rinses them away. If you want to use a touch of ammonia for jacket fouling help, fine, but don't fall into the trap of thinking that windex or ammonia or something magically neutralizes corrosive fouling. As for the GI cleaner and Ballistol/water mix, they have the advantage of also having a water soluble oil mixed in, so they provide some preservative action as well. But the cleaning part is, was, and always will be water.

Don't see a lecture...I see a bunch of guys trying to help someone that asked about corrosive ammo...Don't know but the OP might be a newer shooter of old Milsurps with the 47 posts he has...or he may have tons of experience...I've been shooting since I was about 11 years old...thats well over 60 years ago and I still pick up things from folks that share on the boards...so if I lectured I guess that's one man's opinion.

[ebner glocken]

People It's a Nagant from mother russia. Stick on the bayonet, pull the bolt, Stick the bayonet in the ground and piss down the barrel. All done.
dave

Of the many words and probably hundreds of pages I have read over the years on cleaning up after corrosive primers.....THIS IS THE MOST MEMORABLE I HAVE EVER READ! Btw my grandpa (a ww2 area vet) swore by using GI bore cleaner and cigar ashes. I never understood his science but hey, it worked for him and made him happy. I've used winshield washer fluid, not because it was the best, it was what I had in the car at the time.

All this leads into another question(s). How much vodka should I drink before I piss down the bore of a russian rifle? Should I post pics of my next cleaning session? After a visit to my local walmart I found out most men can't hit a urnal, you expect them to hit a 7.62x54 chamber? Yes, this is an attempt at humor.

[aspangler]

Of the many words and probably hundreds of pages I have read over the years on cleaning up after corrosive primers.....THIS IS THE MOST MEMORABLE I HAVE EVER READ! Btw my grandpa (a ww2 area vet) swore by using GI bore cleaner and cigar ashes. I never understood his science but hey, it worked for him and made him happy. I've used winshield washer fluid, not because it was the best, it was what I had in the car at the time.

All this leads into another question(s). How much vodka should I drink before I piss down the bore of a russian rifle? Should I post pics of my next cleaning session? After a visit to my local walmart I found out most men can't hit a urnal, you expect them to hit a 7.62x54 chamber? Yes, this is an attempt at humor.

A couple of pints would probably work if you can hit the chamber afterwards.:bigsmyl2::kidding: