Core swage with lead stuck in the bleeding holes

[ronaldod]

It is again a learning moment never trie to swage cores that are already swaged a few grain lighter. The bleeding holes of mine die are stuck.
Now is the question how to get those empty without damaging the die.

Any one has a good and simple idea as i am stuck on this and only can think to get a torch.....

[bullet maker 57]

IS the core stuck or just the holes plugged? If just the holes use a small drill bit to clean them out. Being very careful. The die is pretty hard. You might be able to turn the bit by hand. Good luck.

[Zymurgy50]

Do not worry about it, the next core you swage will push the lead out.

[ronaldod]

Got it unplugged.
First i used some lanolin as swage liguid to unplog on hole. (sounded like a shot when one hole popped). Thought first i broke something but the hole was nice clean.
The second one i drilled out with a 2mm drill on a very slow pace. remove 2/3 of the lead and tried to swage an other core and that remove the last part.
Now a happy one.

Note to self. Never reswage swaged core. Those litle pieces will get stuck in the bleeding holes.

[ricklaut]

I don't understand how it would be "stuck" so to speak. Isn't there always a bit of lead back in there waiting to be pushed out by the next core, regardless of whether the core was smaller (previously swaged) or as cast/cut? I'm pretty new at this with only a couple thousand cores swaged, but it seems like the next one just pushes out what was left from the last one.

[supe47]

I had kind of the same experience. Mine was caused by trying to make to light of a core and covering a small amount of the "squirt" hole. My squirt die has a stepped hole, small going into the cavity and larger on the outside to allow the lead "worm" to exit easily. I covered the larger hole a small amount and it caused the large hole to plug. Made the core I was trying to swage feel like it the lead was Linotype. I completely cleared the lead and had no problems afterwords. I did learn not to do that again. Keep that large hole on the outside of the die unobstructed. I now use a spacer below the punch to raise it up a bit and can swage 20 grain cores if i wanted to without getting the hole even close to the locking ring.

[ricklaut]

I had kind of the same experience. Mine was caused by trying to make to light of a core and covering a small amount of the "squirt" hole. My squirt die has a stepped hole, small going into the cavity and larger on the outside to allow the lead "worm" to exit easily. I covered the larger hole a small amount and it caused the large hole to plug. Made the core I was trying to swage feel like it the lead was Linotype. I completely cleared the lead and had no problems afterwords. I did learn not to do that again. Keep that large hole on the outside of the die unobstructed. I now use a spacer below the punch to raise it up a bit and can swage 20 grain cores if i wanted to without getting the hole even close to the locking ring.

Supe - You have a BT core swage die, right? If I'm reading right, you have more than one bleed hole? I only have one...?

[GerryM]

Hers a tip If you think about it makes sense.
Lube your slugs with swaging lube before you squirt them.
Wash the finished cores in some hot soapy water and rinse with clean hot water
The lubed cores will give you a more uniform core weight keeps the die slightly lubed

[supe47]

ricklaut- Yes, a BT squirt die. It has only one hole. The hole is stepped. Picture a funnel of sorts. I was pushing the limits of the die just to see how light I could swage a core and the lock ring slightly blocked the outer edge of the bleed hole. That won't happen again.

[ricklaut]

ricklaut- Yes, a BT squirt die. It has only one hole. The hole is stepped. Picture a funnel of sorts. I was pushing the limits of the die just to see how light I could swage a core and the lock ring slightly blocked the outer edge of the bleed hole. That won't happen again.

Gotcha - I misinterpreted. That makes sense.

[Lizard333]

Another question...... How hard a lead are you using. Some guys are using WW's. I do not recommend it. 7-8 BHN is the hardest I would use. 5-6 BHN is the preferred. Using harder lead only puts a significant stress on the tools and the operator.

[BT Sniper]

I have had good luck reswaging lead slugs a second time, typically not needed. I was able to reswage some 6mm cores a second time getting that last tenth of a grain or so. No problem with any sticking lead in the bleed hole.

BT

[supe47]

I always double swage. Much better accuracy in weight. First swage within a half a grain or so and 2nd for final weight. With practice I can keep 'em within +- 2 hundredths of a grain. I use a Gempro-250 to weigh my components. I've never had a core stick the second time through and only lube my cores very lightly the first time. Don't even need to do that but it does make swaging a heap easier. I also use only pure lead for cores. I do admit to accidentally casting a few hundred cores from 20-1 alloy. I thought I had pure in the pot, forgot about the previous 45 caliber casting session (it'd been a while). Thought them cores looked to purty and the sprue was awfully hard to cut. I now have a dedicated pot for pure. Live and learn.

http://www.oldwillknottscales.com/my-weigh-gempro-250.html?gclid=CI6fwavX4LkCFY9xQgodfwoAQQ

[Sasquatch-1]

I'm with Lizard. How hard was your lead? I have reshaped hard cast bullets with a single stage die but have never tried to form harder lead into cores.

[MUSTANG]

+1 on double swaging cores to get a greater accuracy range (Six Sigma Spread) on core weights.

For example, on 60 grain bullets I swage a 55 grain cast core down to a ~49.9 core, remove it - flip it end over end and swage the same core a 2nd time. This really does reduce the weight spread on my cores (flattens/narrows the 6-sigma curve).

Mustang