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View Full Version : My Love Affair with my Longbranch



robertbank
10-26-2007, 06:05 PM
Just got back from the range today. Am I a happy camper. Shot a 1 1/4" group with my Longbranch today. 18.5 gr 4227 under my 314299 Boolit sized .313 using the battle sights no less. For me that is as good as it gets...well maybe if I tweak that load just a touch.:drinks:

Now I got to get my M1A1 shooting that good thence my Win 94. The latter needs a good set of peeps on it before I get to carried away.

Take Care

Bob

JeffinNZ
10-26-2007, 10:53 PM
What range Bob?

Both my fully wooded .303's like 20gr of H4227 under 205gr bullet.

robertbank
10-27-2007, 12:27 AM
Hi Jeff

Targets were shot at 100yds. Militarty Screw Sights set at 625 yds. Sighting approx. 2" below 10X ring. String ran horizontal seven rds.

I have some 314299 boolits loaded with 20 gr. I was getting mixed results today with that load. Will try it out tomorrow. Temp. was 6C

Take Care

Bob

NVcurmudgeon
10-27-2007, 01:57 AM
Hi Jeff

Targets were shot at 100yds. Militarty Screw Sights set at 625 yds. Sighting approx. 2" below 10X ring. String ran horizontal seven rds.

I have some 314299 boolits loaded with 20 gr. I was getting mixed results today with that load. Will try it out tomorrow. Temp. was 6C

Take Care

Bob

Bob, if you had the military sight screwed up to 625, you must have been using the reasonably sized aperture on the ladder. The battle sight with the ladder folded down has enough space to drive a truck through! Your group was 1 1/4" and vertical? If you step up the velocity a little they may all go into one hole, which Long Branch rifles have a reputation for doing.

JeffinNZ
10-27-2007, 05:43 AM
Hi Jeff

Targets were shot at 100yds. Militarty Screw Sights set at 625 yds. Sighting approx. 2" below 10X ring. String ran horizontal seven rds.

I have some 314299 boolits loaded with 20 gr. I was getting mixed results today with that load. Will try it out tomorrow. Temp. was 6C

Take Care

Bob

NICE WORK.

robertbank
10-27-2007, 10:36 AM
HI, yes it was with the ladder sight up. The string was horizontal. I suspect the old girl suffers from the guy behind the sights. The seven boolits were almost touching.

I have two winter projects. I want to get some cerrosafe (sp) and cast my chamber to maximize my boolit to leade/freebore fit. If necessary I will order a mold from CBE out of Australia.

The 2nd project is to get a similar result from my Norinco M1A1. At the present time I have played around with some surplus WC735 but it to date the results have been mixed. Powder is best used in my 30-30 and smaller cases. I have some IMR 4350 and will work on it using 311291 boolits. Likley better boolit designs out there for this gun but you got to dance with the girl you got for right now.

Take Care

Bob

Bret4207
10-27-2007, 11:20 AM
Just saw a cheap Longbrach #4. I must plead ignorance as I coculdn't get the bolt out to view the internals of the barrel. The #1 and #4 SMLE I know how the bolt releases. How does the Longbrach come out? Are these 2 grooves or 5? If it's more cast friendly than my #4 I might consider picking it up.

Ricochet
10-27-2007, 12:27 PM
Both my fully wooded .303's like 20gr of H4227 under 205gr bullet.
So, when you get out one of your .303s you have a full woody?

NVcurmudgeon
10-27-2007, 12:29 PM
Just saw a cheap Longbrach #4. I must plead ignorance as I coculdn't get the bolt out to view the internals of the barrel. The #1 and #4 SMLE I know how the bolt releases. How does the Longbrach come out? Are these 2 grooves or 5? If it's more cast friendly than my #4 I might consider picking it up.


There are two variations of No. 4 bolt removal. Originally there was a latch immediately behind the receiver bridge. Push latch down against its spring, pull bolt back, making sure that the latch clears the bolt head. Now the bolt head can be rotated up 90 degrees. Raise rear sight, pull bolt out. Later wartime expediencey called for discontinuing the disassembly latch, allowing a simpler procedure. Open bolt, rotate bolt head up 90 degrees, raise rear sight, pull bolt out. Longbranch rifles have a reputation for high quality, so maybe all the Longbranch No. 4s have the latch. When replacing the bolt, be sure that the latch engages the narrow grove in the bolt head. IIRC, Longbranch and Savage No. 4s have either four or two groove barrels. No five groove to thwart slugging!

BruceB
10-27-2007, 01:54 PM
Further to Curmudgeon's comments:

The No.4 Mk1* rifles (that asterisk is IMPORTANT when dealing with Commonwealth rifles) have a portion of the receiver rail removed to allow the bolt head to be rotated out of its track for removal.

This provision has its drawbacks, compared to the more-elaborate latch system on the #4 Mk1 rifles. I've personally owned a #4 Mk1* on which the rear edge of the notch began chipping away with repeated impacts from the bolt head, and this condition worsened until the bolt head would not remain in its proper location riding the rail.

This effectively removed the rifle from service, because it was unreliable. It's the ONLY #4 I've ever seen which went mammaries-to-the-sun so completely. I don't believe the condition is repairable for the long term, and the receiver thus is junk. Although it hurt me to do it, I stripped all useable parts and junked the receiver.

JeffinNZ
10-27-2007, 03:58 PM
So, when you get out one of your .303s you have a full woody?

ARGH. I've been exposed!!!

Ricochet
10-27-2007, 05:59 PM
ARGH. I've been exposed!!!
Well, this IS a thread about "My Love Affair With My Longbranch." :mrgreen:

robertbank
10-27-2007, 08:58 PM
My Longbranch and the others I have seen all have five groove barrels. Mine also has the cutaway rail.. Gun was made in 1950. It is like new so I doubt it saw service in Korea.

Take Care

Bob

robertbank
10-27-2007, 09:33 PM
Both the Longbranch and Savage #4's are the most sought after up here. Probably because of national pride the Longbranch wins out in popularity but truth be known both are fine rifles and you can;t go wrong with either PROVIDED they are in decent shape.

Some say the Longbranch was the best of the Enfields. The girls in Toronto seem to put a lot of love in them for their men overseas. You have to remember 1/10th of our population was preoccupied at the time attending to offshore excursions.

Take Care

Bob

Larry Gibson
10-28-2007, 12:04 AM
Deleted....

I shouldn't a siad that...sorry.....

Larry Gibson

NVcurmudgeon
10-28-2007, 03:52 AM
Bob, horizontal, vertical, I always had trouble keeping them straight! But then I wasn't very clear on left and right until the age of twelve or so. Thanks, I never knew Canadian No. 4s were five groove. Another cherished assumption perishes in the face of the facts.

robertbank
11-18-2007, 01:07 PM
Well I got a half lb. of cerrosafe and yesterday I cast my chamber. Please note the #4 rifle has a hole drilled on the left side of the receiver to direct gases IF a case lets go. When casting your chamber fill this hole with a piece of cloth or something or your casting will not pop out like it says on the directions. Don't ask! Should also mention don't use your hollow cleaning rod to punch out the casting. Again don't ask!

In any event my freebore for my rifle measures .314. Assuming minor variances in bullet diameters when sized will my .313 sizing die continue to be the die I use or should I spring for a .314 sizing die?

Take Care

Bob

JeffinNZ
11-18-2007, 06:19 PM
I would lap the .313 out a thou and save the money.

robertbank
11-18-2007, 06:27 PM
Jeff I have the mechanical ability of a post so lapping out the die is not really an option.:( Not sure how I fathered two sons who are, must have had a mechanically inclined postman.

Not reall sure a thousanths makes much difference but next time I order a die from Lyman or see a .314 die on ebay I may just spring for one.

Take Care

Bob

NVcurmudgeon
11-18-2007, 06:32 PM
[QUOTE=robertbank;247034]
In any event my freebore for my rifle measures .314. Assuming minor variances in bullet diameters when sized will my .313 sizing die continue to be the die I use or should I spring for a .314 sizing die?

Bob, before you buy or lap anything please measure a boolit sized in your present die, cast from the alloy you intend to use. With my alloy of WW + 2% tin, they can be off a thousandth from the size stamped on them. I found that out the hard way when I bought a nominal .356" die for 9mm cast boolits. It sized to .357" just like the nominal .357" die I already had. Arrrrgh!

cobbmtmac
11-18-2007, 10:01 PM
NVcurmudgeon,

If you want to try a .314 die, I have one and don't see a need in the immediate future.

PM me and I will get it off to you. If it works for you, it can be on a "Lease Basis", a la onceabull or if I decide I don't need it back, then we can make a trade or you can buy me a lunch or breakfasrt at NCBS 2008. :coffee:

BTW, I now own a sporterized 1898, 30-40 Krag! I'll be calling you soon to discuss. ---.3086 bore, that is as close as I can get, it may be .3085 or 7---:Fire:

WELL, I RE-READ THE POSTS AND SEE IT IS, robertbank that may need a Lyman .314 die, if you PM me I would be glad to lone it to you.

Bigjohn
11-19-2007, 01:25 AM
Sorry for chiming in here, but I thought I'd add my two cents worth.

I have here at the desk the barreled action of a LONGBRANCH, No.4 Mk I* 1944.

Why only a barreled action you ask? Because some 'Budda' "Parked" a 'J' word bullet in the barrell 9 inches from the muzzle.

I don't know how they removed the bullet but the method bulged the barrel at that point and destroyed the rifling beyond and to the muzzle.

It can not be shot the way it is as there is a constriction just pasted the bulge.

I live in hope as a local importer has found a source of No. 4 barrels and should have them in stock by the end of this month.

I am trying to remove the barrel at the moment to check the condition of the threads before commiting to a newish barrel.

And is this thing screwed in tight. I lost some blood the other day attempting one of the methods of removing barrels using a length of rope.
Ouch!

I would like to get this back to shooting condition otherwise I have only a bin of parts.

John.

creekwalker
11-27-2007, 10:50 PM
You folks have made my day reading this thread as I have a near new Longbranch my dad left me. It has the best wood and metal finish I've ever seen on an Enfield and I wondered how they managed that during wartime production. The No. 5 Jungle Carbine that was with the Longbranch may look cool but its not near the rifle of the other.

creekwalker

robertbank
11-27-2007, 11:28 PM
If you do a search you will find pictures I posted of the ladies who made your Dad's gun. Aside from a number of men over 50 types, some in their 70's, the guns were made by women from Toronto on Longbranch Street. To give you some idea of the wartime commitment 6 of 7 brothers on my wife's side of the family joined up Sept. 4 & 5, 1939. All came home in 1946 save one who lost an eye at Ortona, Italy while serving with the Loyal Edmonton Regiment, 3rd Battalion PPCLI. He came home early. All carried German steel within. One remains with us. I phone him every Nov 11, just to say thanks.

Take Care

Bob

ps Enjoy your Longbranch she is a shooter.

armoredman
11-28-2007, 09:40 AM
My No4Mk1* Longbranch is a sure shot - MOA with one handload so far, haven't had the chance to try the cast boolits a wonderful member sent me to try. Grrr, dadgumit.
Great rifle.
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b13/armoredman/Enfield3.jpg

robertbank
11-28-2007, 10:31 AM
Outstanding!

Looks like a beauty. Love the bayonet.

Take Care

Bob

Frank46
11-28-2007, 11:34 PM
BigJohn, them ropes are a waste of time. Get a piece of square stock about 1" thick. And a 1/4" ubolt that has enough radius to fit over the receiver ring. First drill about a 1/2" hole in the square stock for the front receiver screw goes into the receiver. Then kentucky eye ball the location where the ubolt goes on the square stock and drill the two holes. Since your bbl is already messed up, stick it in a good big vice. put ubolt over reciver and tighten up the nuts and washers. If you want get a piece of brass or copper pipe and put between the ubolt and the receiver to prevent scratching. Take up a strain and hit a sharp blow and the receiver should start to move. i made this rig up to take off 2 mauser bbls for a friend and one jungle carbine that a buddy wanted to restore as the old bbl was toast. You just have to be careful not to crush the area where the front guard screw goes. Make sure the square stock is about 2' long so's you get some leverage. Or have a local smith take off the bbl if you feel that the reciever may get damaged. Hope this helps, Frank

Antietamgw
11-29-2007, 08:36 AM
If your existing barrel is scrap, you can make removal much easier (and safer for the reciever) by cutting a relief groove in the barrel. A hacksaw will work - just cut a slot .100 or so deep around the shank of the barrel against or very close to the reciever ring. This will relief some of the stress and allow the barrel to be removed MUCH easier. Soak with penetrating oil for as long as you can - I like Kroil. Using a proper wrench will protect the reciever. Good luck with it!

armoredman
11-29-2007, 11:25 AM
Robert, I like having a pigsticker/tent stake around, never know when I might need one...

robertbank
11-29-2007, 01:59 PM
After the war that style of bayonet was sold for 99 cents or less for use as tent pegs. I remember as a kid the Army & Navy store in Edmonton was selling WW1 bayonets (the long ones used with the Mk111's for 99 cents and both Longbranch and Jungle Carbines for $9.95, your choice! They had hundreds of them on the walls. You could also get sheep skin coats and pants used by bomber command during the war for under $10. a set. I think I paid close to $500 for the same style of jacket a few years back. Still have it. Warm in the cold weather.

Take Care

Bob

Bigjohn
12-06-2007, 02:33 AM
Frank46 & Antietamgw;

Thank you for your suggestions; unfortunately I need to keep the knox forms (barrels) intact otherwise one of these final options would do the job.

I have a friend who has built a switch barrel enfield and he can use the threaded end to sweat onto new barrels.

Also I may be put the newer barrels on myself so I will try and make a set of barrel vices and spanners. Lately, I have been doing a lot of work with .303 actions and more to come.

The local 'smith sold his barrel removing equipment for .303's some years back; not enough work. Now he only reblues firearms.

Nearest 'smith to me is 400 miles one way and with the paperwork involved in leaving any Firearms in his care for a period of time is not worth the hassle.

John.

northmn
12-17-2007, 11:51 AM
Interesting thread. Shot my first deer with a No.4 Mk 1 my dad bought for me for $25 with a cheap 22 scope (mail order back when you could buy things like that, shows my age) Still have that gun which is marked England and was "sporterized" by the company that sent it. My full stock military Enfield is a North Branch. Shot a deer with a cast bullet with it and got hooked on cast bullets since. Cheated a little and mounted the English micrometer sight on it from the other rifle. Always have had a soft spot for the Lee Enfield and am currently working up another hunting load using the Lyman 311284 as I like heavy bullets and would like to come close to suplicating the original British load that has been used on everything from rabbits to elephants around the world.

Northmn