Best case gauge for 40 S&W

[flintlock62]

Since I got my Lone Wolf barrel, I'm finding some of my reloads won't fit correctly. Right now, I'm using the barrel itself as the gauge. I will be getting a Redding push-through die later and am currently culling the good cases from the not-so-good one's. Who makes the best gauge, Wilson, Lyman, Dillon, other?

[Reg]

I like the Wilson's but have a couple of Lyman's and they work just fine.

[flintlock62]

Are the Wilson's tighter tolerance than the Lyman?

[Reg]

I don't think I would say they were but the Wilsons are a little finer finished on my opinion, appearance wise that is. I think either properly used would help you make good ammo.
Both won't tell you the whole story. You still have to pay attention to the over all length.

[flintlock62]

I measure COL with calipers, and check every tenth round, although the length has never changed in my reloading experience, I still check. The only times I have noted changes is when switching from JHP's to cast LSWC's. Maybe i'll go with the Wilson's since you say they're finished better.


I don't think I would say they were but the Wilsons are a little finer finished on my opinion, appearance wise that is. I think either properly used would help you make good ammo.
Both won't tell you the whole story. You still have to pay attention to the over all length.

[Ed_Shot]

I use the Lyman chamber gauge for 40 SW....it is tighter than my Lone Wolf barrel chamber. I check all my de-primed & cleaned 40 SW brass with the Lyman gauge. Those that fail the gauge I do a second check in the barrel chamber and if they won't PLUNK into the barrel chamber I trash them. Those that failed the chamber gauge but will easily fit the barrel chamber I run thru a LEE Bulge Buster. Also, if I can see an obvious Glocked stretch mark on a case it goes in the trash no matter what.

[oldandslow]

f62,

I've had a Wilson and it rusted pretty easily in my humid climate. I now have Dillon case gauges as they are made of stainless steel and haven't rusted. Good luck.

best wishes- oldandslow

[williamwaco]

You are already using the "Best" Gauge.

Nobody's gauge can tell you as much about your pistol as your own barrel.

[flintlock62]

I guess I can't argue with that.


You are already using the "Best" Gauge.

Nobody's gauge can tell you as much about your pistol as your own barrel.

[popper]

Save the $$. Case gauge is length only, your bbl is dia. check. Sort sized brass with the chamber, then with dummy rnds. If it's tight you could get it reamed a tad.

[David2011]

Save the $$. Case gauge is length only, your bbl is dia. check. Sort sized brass with the chamber, then with dummy rnds. If it's tight you could get it reamed a tad.

My experience has been different from that. The Dillon I use for.40 will reject a case with a Glock bulge that has been resized in a standard loading press using the modified Lee sizing die well before going all the way into the gage. Many of the rejected rounds will still chamber as if in spec. I run all new-to-me used .40 brass through a Case Master Jr to push-through size it before loading. The Dillon will also stop on a .401 diameter boolit that's seated out too far for SAAMI specs. A .400" boolit will pass every time. My .40 is an STI which is a 1911 pattern gun so it can handle loads much longer than SAAMI specs. After
experimenting, no advantage or disadvantage found to loading longer lengths for the STI, though.

Is the Dillon the best? I don't know- it's the only one I have but it is very closely sized for both length and diameter and has a sharp headspace shoulder. I have never had a failure to feed using it.

David

[garym1a2]

Too bad they don't make one out of clear plastic (or Lexan)so you could see where the trouble spots are.

[W.R.Buchanan]

On .40 S&W fired from auto pistols there will be some bulge at the bottom almost invariably.

Running the cases thru a Lee Deluxe FCD with the carbide sizing ring and with the guts removed (Bulge Buster kit) will remove the bulge.

Or you can spend $65 for a Redding push thru die.

This is a case prep operation, not a reloading operation!

You still need to run the cases thru your normal full length sizing die before loading.

I can almost guarantee they will all work after this treatment. As far as a case gage is concerned, I have never used one.

If you have a pair of dial calipers you can measure the OAL, the diameter at the case head, and the dia. at the crimp.

The OAL will vary depending on the type of bullet you use.

The Case head just above the extractor groove should be .421-422, which it will be after the case is pushed thru the FCD die,,, and the crimp should be .417-.418.

As long as all these measurements are there you will be fine.

Just don't hotrod this round, it is one of he most finicky out there when pushed to the high end. IF you actually need hot rod loads for some imagined purpose,,, go buy some factory loaded ammo. Then if it blows your gun up you have someone else to blame.

Most all of the aftermarket barrels have tighter chambers which is their main claim to fame. My Storm Lake barrel (which I don't use cuz it malfunctions too often) has a very tight chamber at about .426 ,,, .422 trying to feed into a .426 hole is why it malfunctions so often!

I don't have this problem with the stock bbl.

Randy

[dudel]

Wilson and Midway work well for me. I also have one Dillon with no complaints.

[North_of_60]

You are already using the "Best" Gauge.

Nobody's gauge can tell you as much about your pistol as your own barrel.

I agree. I have never had any other gauge than my barrel or if I am reloading for a friend their barrel. Each gun is and individual.