45acp fire lapping question

[porthos]

attn. gray wolf and jupiter7
my first post about the ledding problem was at 5:47 pm on sept 15 in the year 2013 titled firelapping 45acp. anyway between the first post and the second I think most of the info. is there. the gun in question is a Wilson 45acp semi.auto the load of v-310 was shot out of this gun (Wilson says) . the leading issues are xplained. I just want some info on firelapping a 45acp semi-automatic pistol. grits used and how fast??
porthos

[nickE10mm]

attn. gray wolf and jupiter7
my first post about the ledding problem was at 5:47 pm on sept 15 in the year 2013 titled firelapping 45acp. anyway between the first post and the second I think most of the info. is there. the gun in question is a Wilson 45acp semi.auto the load of v-310 was shot out of this gun (Wilson says) . the leading issues are xplained. I just want some info on firelapping a 45acp semi-automatic pistol. grits used and how fast??
porthos

Get in touch with Veral at LBT Moulds. He is the person you need to talk to and can provide you all of the info you need.

Marshal @ Beartooth Bullets can also help you with anything you need.

[Jupiter7]

Hi porthos,

I see you're new here. Familiarize yourself with the controls of the forum. The 1st post of this thread make no sense without reading the other 2 threads started. Maybe keeping this as one thread wouldve alleviated the questions, that or linking one thread to the next. Also, "reply to thread" would be a good option. No harm done, but continuity will help you get the answers YOU need.

[tomme boy]

No kidding. This is getting confusing. We can get your pistol fixed without having to firelap it.

[41 mag fan]

attn. gray wolf and jupiter7
my first post about the ledding problem was at 5:47 pm on sept 15 in the year 2013 titled firelapping 45acp. anyway between the first post and the second I think most of the info. is there. the gun in question is a Wilson 45acp semi.auto the load of v-310 was shot out of this gun (Wilson says) . the leading issues are xplained. I just want some info on firelapping a 45acp semi-automatic pistol. grits used and how fast??
porthos

Did Wilson shoot lead out of this 45? I'd bet they shot jacketed, as they would have to load a lead round up, and being in a business, they probably shot factory thru it.
Even in your first thread, you never mentioned the bore diameter, and it seems all you're looking for is info on fire lapping.
Bet that bore is tight, which fire lapping wont help, but a proper sized boolit will

[Walt]

Wilson Combat is an ammunition manufacturer. I'm not certain if their line has a cast bullet 45 load right now but Bill shot a boat load in competition.

[wv109323]

With the price and availability of ammo in today's market Wilson may be well using reloads to test his guns. The components listed are well known in the Bullseye pistol community. There is no disadvantage to a good cast bullet in a .45ACP. Any match barrel worth a hoot should not need fire lapped.

[theperfessor]

Just my opinion but fire lapping would be one of the LAST things I did to cure a leading problem.

[Char-Gar]

Just my opinion but fire lapping would be one of the LAST things I did to cure a leading problem.

Yep...Could not have said it better. I cannot imagine any reason or need to fire lap a 45 Auto barrel. Sounds like a good way to ruin a high dollar barrel.

99% of leading problems that folks experience in the 45 autopistol can be traced back to bad bullets and/or bad bullet lube.

[BD]

It's a little tough to keep track of this thread(s)? theperfessor and Char-Gar are on the money as far as firelapping a 1911 barrel. I can see no reason to do this as there is nothing in the manufacturing or assembly of a 1911 barrel likely to create a constriction and the rifling is generally quite shallow to start with.

From what I can gather from your posts you are likely pounding a boolit that has an abrupt shoulder, (SWC), through a hole with a sharp edge which is smaller in diameter than the boolit. It is shaving a ring of lead off every time which is then ironed into the throat by the next shot fired. IMHO, you need to size your boolits smaller, (.451), and/or buy or borrow a 1911 throating tool and spend the two minutes it takes to throat your barrel. There is a very traditional point of view out there on the internet that steadfastly insists that .45 boolits for a 1911 need to be sized to .452 or even larger to solve all leading problems. In my experience this has not really been the case since about the 1980s for most of the US made 1911s, (Kimber, Springfield, Wilson, Les Baer), most of which came from the factory with bores of .450 to .4505 The primary issue I have found with leading in new barrels in the first inch of the barrel is a lack of true "throat", often combined with boolits larger than the bore. I think you would be well served to read this thread:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?147923-1911-Leading&highlight=1911+barrel+throat

BD

[Char-Gar]

Quite often their are micro-burrs/machine hickies on the edges of the little headspace shelf that leads into the barrel. These are quite easy to lap out without resorting to firing grit laden bullets down a good barrel (shudder). It will also create a slight .0005 tapered throat leading to the rifling.

Get you a fired 30-06 case, coat it with 600 grit lapping paste, stick it in the chamber of your 45 Auto barrel, and turn it. You can use a big tap wrench or a pair of vise grips. Remove it, clean and regrit ever 20 or so turns. About 4 or 5 rounds of this will remove any rough issues at this point, won't change the dimension enough to cause any headspace problems and will most likely remove leading and increase accuracy.

This is a little trick learned from Ed Harris and it works. It is a good cure for 45 ACP revolver cylinders and 45 Auto barrels. This is a much better option than shooting abrasive laden bullets down a barrel that removes metal where it does not need to be removed. Plan on spending an hour or so on this chore and getting a little arm weary.

Clean everything out real good before firing. I use drug store isopropyl alcohol which cuts out the remaining grit and its grease/oil carrier.

[MGySgt]

I have a brand new Ruger SR1911CMD - my standard boolits lubed with LARS 2500+ produce no leading. I think you need to go back to the beginning and start over.

Measure your barrel if it is under .451 use a .451 sizer die and a good lube - I don't want to sound as if I am pushing LARS lubes (LsStuff.com at the bottom of the page) but it has eliminated a lot of leading problems for different shooters.

Don't go into +P levels just try for factory duplication velocities.
Use a Taper Crimp Die
I would not suggest going under .451 diameter - you may have an issue with neck tension and have the boolit set back in the case during loading from the mag - not a good thing.
Did you clean the barrel to remove all traces of copper wash/powder fouling from any jacketed ammo?
Take it slow and easy - only load 5 to 10 rounds at a time for test loads. After firing take the barrel out an push a dry patch down it - got any leading? If you do - use a DRY bore brush wrapped with copper ChoyBoy to remove the lead - do not use a solvent. fire your next batch of test loads and check for leading - if the barrel has some leading clean it again without solvent.
I had to load 10, shoot them, clean the barrel about 4 or 5 times before I got no leading.

This works for me - your mileage may vary.