PDA

View Full Version : Trimming a mold for length/mass reduction



Pakprotector
09-14-2013, 07:38 PM
What do I need to worry about when shaving off a significant amount from the top of a two-cav Lyman mold? I am getting a 225462 ( like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/141057440887?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 ), and want to lose the last drive band and of course the gas check. I can see pulling the sprue plate stop pin, the sprue plate and its jam screw and trimming off a bit...then putting in a new jam screw hole, and re-installing the stop pin. well, maybe pilot drill a deeper stop pin hole, then ream to size last...:)

I want the new boolit to have a wee bit of a tail, and plan to end right in the middle of the lube groove.

I need boolits less than .480 long to fit the Marauder magazine, as well as stabilize with a TJ Hornet/14" twist barrel.
cheers,
Douglas

sackot
09-14-2013, 09:29 PM
I did this with a Lyman 225438, though I was only taking a bit off to lose some slight damage, so I didn't have to worry about modifying pin/screw hole depths. The really difficult bit was getting the stop pin out, after that no problem. I tried to get the pin out with vice-grips, only succeeded in graunching it. Once I'd decided it would have to be replaced, I just gripped it in a large bench vice and out it came-- in fact I was able to clean it up and reuse it.

williamwaco
09-14-2013, 09:37 PM
I did this with a Lyman 375449.

I sent mine to http://www.hollowpointmold.com/

They did a spectacular job in less than two weeks and that is now my most accurate .375 bullet.

500MAG
09-14-2013, 09:43 PM
I did this with a Lyman 375449.

I sent mine to http://www.hollowpointmold.com/

They did a spectacular job in less than two weeks and that is now my most accurate .375 bullet.
I really can't see paying the price they charge for a Lee conversion. Lyman, I can understand. Before paying the Lee conversion, I'd go with one of the NOE HP's.

KYShooter73
09-15-2013, 01:00 AM
I'm in the middle of removing the bevels from the base of a Lee 6 cavity. Sand paper and Emory cloth over a plate of glass. I'm hours into the project and have a way to go, and this is aluminum. I'm keeping a close eye on the dial calipers. Shoulda let a machine shop do it in 30 minutes.

KYShooter73
09-15-2013, 09:25 AM
:shock::shock:.009 to go after another 4 hours of gentle sanding and watching netflix.....

fouronesix
09-15-2013, 09:31 AM
For the simple shortening as in the OP's project, it pays to have a mill or have friends with mills. Once the block is set and plumbed up- about a 10 minute job.

Ben
09-15-2013, 09:35 AM
:shock::shock:.009 to go after another 4 hours of gentle sanding and watching netflix.....

That that is one way to improve your upper arm strength.

Shiloh
09-15-2013, 09:52 AM
I've had it done on several molds. Fly cutting the top of molds to remove bevel bases. Latest one was a LEE 90310 It now casts a H&G 68 clone with no bevel base. Drops from the mold at 201 gr. with the current alloy.

Shiloh

Pakprotector
09-15-2013, 04:10 PM
For the simple shortening as in the OP's project, it pays to have a mill or have friends with mills. Once the block is set and plumbed up- about a 10 minute job.

and here I was thinking I'd do it with a file...lol

Thanks for confirming I have not missed anything really critical so far.
cheers,
Douglas

fouronesix
09-15-2013, 04:41 PM
:) Nah, no problems I could see in your methods for re-setting the sprue plate screw and set screw. Pretty straight forward- just keep mold face flat and plumb to the original axis.

blikseme300
09-15-2013, 10:00 PM
Probably the best additions to my reloading equipment was the purchase of a mini lathe and mini mill. Modifications and manufacture of tooling is now possible and these tools have paid for themselves many times over. The satisfaction itself is priceless.

Yes, I have modified a number of molds by fly cutting the blocks to remove the bevel base or GC. Drilling and tapping the sprue plate screw holes were done. Each mold modification took about 45 mins.

mdi
09-16-2013, 11:43 AM
and here I was thinking I'd do it with a file...lol

Thanks for confirming I have not missed anything really critical so far.
cheers,
Douglas
I cut a bit off a Lee mold by draw filing. Turned the mold block often, was very careful, used a new, sharp single cut file. Worked ok for me.

45-70 Chevroner
09-16-2013, 11:53 AM
What advantage would a slight tail get you but lube around the base? I think just taking the gas check off would be the way to go. All you would have to do is to seat it a little deeper. I'm sure a lot of guys on here know what a marauder magazine is but enlighten me.