How do I remove the scuffs from my stainless revolver?

[happy7]

I have a Ruger Old Army in stainless. It had some scuffs and light scratches, most of them from before I acquired it and I have been thinking it shouldn't be too hard to bring it back to a nice polish, but I am not sure what is the best method to do this. Can anyone help me out? Thanks.

[slughammer]

Test some under the grip panels or other area to get a finish that matches the individual gun. I did this for a 63 kit gun and the results were Excellent! Can't remember what grit worked best, I have pieces of each in the clutter on my bench.

These are also excellent papers to have for general use; I use them a bunch for trigger jobs, sizing dies and reloading dies.

[scb]

Scotch Brite pads also works well. Steve

[dubber123]

If it has a brushed finish, the above methods work, or if it's polished, I believe the stuff is called Flitz Blue Magic. Comes in a tube, polished stainless guns like nobodies business. I used it on a few used S&W's I bought, and they looked better than new in a few minutes.

[happy7]

Thanks for the tips. I stopped by the auto parts store today. I will give them a try.

[94Doug]

Actually, Wetordry sandpaper (3M speak, there) goes as fine as 2500 grit if you really want to be carefull. Also, after scuffing, follow up with semichrome polish, it should look like new.

Doug

[freedom475]

scotch brite pads work well . But also a large INK pen eraser will do a good job(it will also remove very stubborn carbon build-up from stainless)DON"T use on blued finish it will erase the bluing.

[Lee]

There are different grits and compositions for Scotchbrite@ pads. As mentioned above, try in an inconspicuous place first, so you don't go from bad to worse.................Lee:wink:

[JIMinPHX]

If you use the wet/dry paper, use it wet (with water). it prevents you from causing new scratches & floats the swarth away.

If you use Scotchbrite, dab it in a little motor oil first. It gives a nicer finish.

[JIMinPHX]

Flitz (or Simichrome) will give a high shine after the scratches are gone.

[Topper]

Another tip for brush finish.
Use a fine steel brush, lay it on the scratched area and bump it with your hand without letting it slide.

[Stevejet]

We used Scotch-brite pad and tap water to refurbish the finish on new jet engines exhaust tail pipes (stainless steel satin finish) that would get "man damage blemishes" from shipping and installation. These Tail pipes cost $180,000 per engine on MD11, 747, 767, 777 aircraft and the customer paid 8.5 to 16 million for a "new" engine. It had to look "new" at the time of title transfer and delivery fly-away! Water is the trick and you choose the finish as per pad coarsness.

[Stevejet]

We used Scotch-brite pad and tap water to refurbish the finish on new jet engines exhaust tail pipes (stainless steel satin finish) that would get "man damage blemishes" from shipping and installation. These Tail pipes cost $180,000 per engine on MD11, 747, 767, 777 aircraft and the customer paid 8.5 to 16 million for a "new" engine. It had to look "new" at the time of title transfer and delivery fly-away! Water is the trick and you choose the finish as per pad coarsness.

I seem to have had a spell of twitchy post-finger as this appeared twice!

[2400]

Another tip for brush finish.
Use a fine steel brush, lay it on the scratched area and bump it with your hand without letting it slide.

This isn't a good idea, because little pieces of steel will embed in the stainless and will eventually rust.

Try using stainless steel wool to "buff" out little scratches.

[crossfireoops]

Dunno' what your hang up is,...with "Blemishes"

.....Hell, the material is called "Stainless",...ain't it.

If the "blemishes" are just to much to bare,.....strip the thing,

Take it down to your local A&P, or H.D., or Race -car shop....have 'em bead it with good aerospace beads.

DON"T "RUB" on it with nuttin'.....

If shiny's your thing, ....get it chromed.

GTC

[Bret4207]

Thats what you guys get for messing with nature. Guns are supposed to be BLUED!:mrgreen:

[Blackhawk Convertable]

1. Start with the Flitz before you try any of the more abrasive things.
2. Then try the very fine grit emory cloth wetted with a lubricating oil
3. Then finally try a more coarse emory cloth or Scotch 3-M pad.

OK, If you had to do #3 to get the scratches out, reverse order and do #2 then #1
If you had to do #2 to get the scratches out, finish with #1

I removed the billboard on my Ruger and this is how it ended up:
http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL1019/4043194/8402215/222743834.jpg