Avg life of a Lee Mold if taken care of ?

[capt.hollis]

How many bullets are ya getting out of them ? Are you getting more life out of a 6 cavity versus the 2 cavity. I got about 300 bullets out of my last 2 cavity before the pins wouldn't line up right, but ill admit I had no idea how to lube it properly until now. Now that I think I'm lubing them right so far I think I'm around 300 bullets on this new one, and it still feels, and pours like its brand new.

[fecmech]

I have a 2 cav that's had a few thousand bullets cast in it and it's still ok. They are kind of fragile but the main thing IMO is closing them on a flat surface so they align the mold halves well.

[Larry Gibson]

Got my 1st Lee mould in '73 or '74 and still have it and all the others I kept. Traded off a few but they were excellent condition. 1st thing I learned was to properly prep the mould and lube it. Next was to use gloves to open the sprue plate instead of whacking on it with a stick or mallet. Even use gloves with iron blocks now. Prep 'em, lube 'em and don't whack on 'em an they last for ever. Never have worn out a mould.

Larry Gibson

[ultramag]

I've only been casting a little less than a year, but I don't see molds as a consumable item....Lee or otherwise.

The mold that had to endure me learning on it was a Lee DC TL452-230-TC. We've made at least 5000 boolits together and it's not much worse for the wear. Most it's degradation took place in the first session or two and was my fault. I do think the Lee 6 cavity molds are engineered and executed better.

I also agree with cutting the sprues with a gloved hand. It will be especially beneficial on a 2 cavity mold with the mold halves pinned to the handles.

[btroj]

Don't know. When I wear one out you will be the second to know.

Like any tool, misuse is the primary enemy.

[capt.hollis]

Awwww I see.. I've been whacking the mold with a stick. This is probably the issue here guys. Thanks.

[Hawkeye45]

One of the first things I learned in casting was not to hit the mold. If you need to tap on something to get the boolits to drop than tap on the bolt that holds the two handles together. I use a cleaned up broken hammer handle. I have used the same lee molds for over 20 years now with no trouble
Just my humble opinion.

Mr. Ed

[GP100man]

Close em on a level surface is the bestthing ya can do for any mold !

I have a Lee 158 rnfp that has accounted for a few over 7K & still closes even.

[texassako]

I admit I am one of those people that is pretty rough on their tools. I have a TL358-158-swc 2 cavity that has cast thousands and still casts and aligns fine. The rest have cast fewer than 1000. Maybe I am lucky, but the Lee molds have held up.

[capt.hollis]

Thanks guys. Yes I'm pretty rough on my stuff likewise. I guess you could say I need a bullet proof mold, lol!

[M Hicks]

You can tap the sprue open with a stick, hammer handle or similar item. Just be dang gentle when doing so and try your best to make sure the force causes it to slide parallel with the surface of the mold blocks. Making it torque in any direction is going to cause wear on the blocks and pivot screw. I think that timing is critical when cutting. Soft enough to do with a gloved hand but cool enough not to cause smears. They should last a very long time if taken care of and treated as any other tool with the exception of a few. Anvil comes to mind first.

[capt.hollis]

You can tap the sprue open with a stick, hammer handle or similar item. Just be dang gentle when doing so and try your best to make sure the force causes it to slide parallel with the surface of the mold blocks. Making it torque in any direction is going to cause wear on the blocks and pivot screw. I think that timing is critical when cutting. Soft enough to do with a gloved hand but cool enough not to cause smears. They should last a very long time if taken care of and treated as any other tool with the exception of a few. Anvil comes to mind first.i agree , and Thanks for the info. I just can't get the timing on knocking that sprue with my hand , lol. Thanks again guys .

[aspangler]

ALL my Lee molds have cast several k of boolits and are still going strong. I just read, re-read, re- re- read the instructions and then followed them to the letter. No troubles so far.

[bangerjim]

I use a rawhide mallet to push the plates closed. And a gentle tap with same to cut sprue and open it. If any boolits hang up, I gently tap the sides on the handles and NOT on the aluminum mold surfaces.

No damage yet!

bangerjim

[Del-Ray]

I close my molds on a piece of 3/4 inch micarta I got as scrap from work. It's basically cloth pressed and encapsulated in resin. It's very heat resistant, I can set a hot mold on it and i turns a little dark, plus unlike plywood it does not warp, or crack. I get no little chips of wood between the mold halves as I work. its almost like unbreakable glass.

[Fishman]

Preheating the mould on a hotplate will help. you should be able to cut the sprue witha a gloved hand first off. Best $12 Ive spent in a while

[Iowa Fox]

If you take care of it you won't live long enough to wear it out. I have never opened a mold with other than a gloved hand on any mold I own since day one which is now over 40 years ago. These days as old age is creeping in I use heavy cardboard in the palm of my hand under the glove on the 4 cav. I always close the molds slowly watching alignment and keep them well lubed, doesn't matter if they are iron, brass, or aluminum..

[w0fms]

I knocked the pins out of alignment on a Lee 2 cavity.. but was able to put them back in alignment by heating them up and using a center punch and a vise. I imagine they will last a long time. I'm being a little more "gingerly" with the 2 cavs now...

[leadman]

I have a 6 cavity 120gr 356 TC that I just decided to replace today. It has cast at least 60,000 boolits. The part line is getting worn and there is some lead above the rest of the surface. Would not be an issue if I was still using the RCBS luber/sizer but with the Hi-Tek coating the thin line of lead has the coating removed when the boolit is sized. Cheap enough to replace.

[HABCAN]

What M Hicks said.......be gentle. I've had one SC LEE 7mmx130 for decades, and none of my other LEE's have suffered. I've been given two LEEs that were badly abused, but got them working again, hehehe. Battery will damage even a tough mold like a Lyman or RCBS.......again, be gentle!

[warf73]

iI just can't get the timing on knocking that sprue with my hand.

Once the mold is dropping good boolits you should be able to open the spur plate with a gloved hand if not lube the mold.

Bring the mould up to casting temperature and fill cavities with alloy.
Be sure to have complete base fill out to avoid getting lube in the cavities.
Cut the sprue and keep the blocks together with boolits in the cavities.
Lightly dampen a Q-tip with lube and spread a light film of lube on the mould block top surface and bottom of sprue plate.
With a clean Q-tip wipe away any excess lube from both surfaces, a very small amount is needed.
Also apply to alignment pins.
Reapply at the first sign of any drag on the opening or closing sprue plate.

I have used BP and sythetic 2 stroke oil with great results. Lubing your mold properly will make it last almost forever.

[imashooter2]

I have a 1 cavity C309-150-F with over 3,000 cycles, a 6 cavity 358-150-1R with over 3,000 cycles and a 6 cavity 452-228-1R with well over 4,000 cycles. All will continue in service for the foreseeable future.

[Dave C.]

I get about 35,000 high quality boolits from the six bangers.
Then buy a new one, they are consumables.

Dave C.

[MT Gianni]

I have some that have gone for while a while but consider them the bic lighter of molds. Do not plan on just one doing the job forever.

[John Boy]

hollis - Lee Precision has an link with instructions for every product they sell... http://leeprecision.com/instructions.html
Based on your issues and replies - guess you didn't read this one for the 6 cavity mold ... http://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/SC1334.pdf
Also in the mold box is an enclosed paper you might want to also read. Like any product, one shouldn't blame the product if they don't read the instructions how to use it

[HARRYMPOPE]

if they were $80 nobody would use them.its the cheap price why we tolerate them.I have a few i like but find i have to baby them and tune them up.Use a Steve Brooks,Barnett,Eagan,LBT or Richard Hoch molds from the 80's and they just work right off the bat and make you smile.If a mold lasts "forever" whats an extra $50-$100 for quality machine work?Not trying to be an equipment snob just another perspective.

[Skunkworks]

Veral Smith claims that customers of his has cast over 375000 boolits from the same alu mold.
I also read of a Kenworth truck that was 60+yrs old and had rolled more than 6 million miles.

Everything will last if taken proper care of!

Treat a mold like a disposable item and it will only be that. Disposable!

[mold maker]

I've picked up abused molds in all conditions. Some were LEE and some were H&G, Lyman, RCBS, Ideal, etc. None of them had failed because they were cheap, but without exception they had been treated as if they were disposable.
There have been only 2 that with some TLC and replacement sprue plates, pins, and screws, couldn't be rehabbed. These 2 had pitted surfaces that were too deep to polish, and held on to the slug like a weld.
If you respect and treat any mold like it cost $300, it will likely produce in kind. If ya drop, gouge, and beat it like a golf ball, it will fail to do the job, even if it did cost $3oo.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

If you gonna treat a boolit mold like a 2-bit *****, Stay away fromLee molds, I'd recommend buying a Lyman Iron mold.

[HARRYMPOPE]

Lee's are not as durable as other molds of better materials(steel or aluminum),Their aluminum is butter soft because they extrude it for the blocks.It works and i am happy they can sell them so reasonable.I dont beat my molds up but Lee's are just delicate.I rather have "hell for stout" and well made

If anybody thinks Lee's are as good as other more expensive well made molds just say so.Chinese wrenches work fine for homeowners that "take care of them" (AKA Not use them much) but most professionals choose Mac and Snap-On.Same argument.

George

[capt.hollis]

hollis - Lee Precision has an link with instructions for every product they sell... http://leeprecision.com/instructions.html
Based on your issues and replies - guess you didn't read this one for the 6 cavity mold ... http://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/SC1334.pdf
Also in the mold box is an enclosed paper you might want to also read. Like any product, one shouldn't blame the product if they don't read the instructions how to use iti think you need to re-read my post , as I admitted that I did not take care of the mold correctly sir. Never blamed the manufacturer one time. Seems like you need to practice your reading likewise. Just sayin

[capt.hollis]

If you gonna treat a boolit mold like a 2-bit *****, Stay away fromLee molds, I'd recommend buying a Lyman Iron mold.
I do believe for now on I'm going to buy Lyman molds. As you said treating them like a 2 bit ***** ain't going to be the Lee product for me then, lol. Oh, I used to treat the 2 bit whores pretty nice, never once whacked them out of alignment like I did the lee mold . Lol

[capt.hollis]

Once the mold is dropping good boolits you should be able to open the spur plate with a gloved hand if not lube the mold.

Bring the mould up to casting temperature and fill cavities with alloy.
Be sure to have complete base fill out to avoid getting lube in the cavities.
Cut the sprue and keep the blocks together with boolits in the cavities.
Lightly dampen a Q-tip with lube and spread a light film of lube on the mould block top surface and bottom of sprue plate.
With a clean Q-tip wipe away any excess lube from both surfaces, a very small amount is needed.
Also apply to alignment pins.
Reapply at the first sign of any drag on the opening or closing sprue plate.

I have used BP and sythetic 2 stroke oil with great results. Lubing your mold properly will make it last almost forever.
Thank you sir for the great info.

[capt.hollis]

Lee's are not as durable as other molds of better materials(steel or aluminum),Their aluminum is butter soft because they extrude it for the blocks.It works and i am happy they can sell them so reasonable.I dont beat my molds up but Lee's are just delicate.I rather have "hell for stout" and well made

If anybody thinks Lee's are as good as other more expensive well made molds just say so.Chinese wrenches work fine for homeowners that "take care of them" (AKA Not use them much) but most professionals choose Mac and Snap-On.

Georgewell stated sir, you are correct .

[leadman]

I have had issues with the recent Lyman molds and for a few dollars more prefer the RCBS. SAECO molds are also good but had 2 molds for the 41 cal that dropped boolits too small for my gun and under SAAMI spec of .411". I do have 3 or 4 other SAECOs that are wonderful to cast with, probably the best production molds made. Prices do vary by retailer so do check around. Midway seems to be the highest price I have found.

[MtGun44]

Many years and many tens of thousands of boolits, if taken care of.

Bill

[6.5 mike]

Like Larry, I still have the 1st lee I bought & still use it. Good info on closing them & where to hit if needed. But then again I still have my grandfathers woodworking tools & use them, lol. A little care will go along way.

[barrabruce]

Unlike some I finally killed my lee 170 30 cal fp single mold.
Wished they still made it.

I bought a couple to crash n burn while learning to cast.

I lee mented it so the nose rubbed in my rifling.

Cast probably 5000 bullets.

Started out whacking it to death as one is supposed too being a beginner.
Then got into speed casting and smeared lead over the blocks with some gouges.

Lee mented it a second time as the air displacement knurly bits finally pushed to much together and polished out the score marks on a window with some wet n dry.

Still shot 1" and under at 100yrds till finally someone wanted some bullets so we fired up the pot.

for real I turned me back for 2 minutes...and he was whacking the blocks with a mallet and bashing it closed and open.
Reckons I should by a decent mold instead of that lee ship...Iv'e been casting 15 yrs...Blahh blahh.

Well I had to baby it and it need replacement ..but still.....

I think the mold compressors together eventually leaving the vents collapsed....
It would eventually happen but with care would take a longer time than mine.

As with yer wife don't let others borrow then if you don't want them..well you know!!!

For the price I would lement a lee than try the same thing on an expensive semi custom one.

I have worked out how to use the older 2 bangers but find the sprue plate tends to be harder to cut off straight with out pressure inward or outward.
With a big puddle of hard mix I find it hard to cut by hand......maybe I need a bit of cardboard or such between the bocks and the glove.

Yeah I don't mind them as they work better than they should for the price and mine have been even in diameters.

That reminds me I need to buy a couple more..inspite of what people say.

Barra

[rintinglen]

6-7000 casts, in "normal" use. but they will wear out unless really babied. The aluminum is nearly butter soft and contact points will peen and eventually you'll get out of round boolits with base flashing. The older two cavity molds were especially prone to dinging up the alignment grooves. The advice on using a gloved hand and preheating to avoid pounding on the sprue cutter is spot on (although that's not what Lee shows in their little instruction booklet.) I buy the cheap padded welding gloves at the swap meet and preheat on the pot or with a hotplate.

[jmort]

"That reminds me I need to buy a couple more..in spite of what people say."

Me too.

[Rattlesnake Charlie]

I've have several 2-cavities from the 1980's, I don't treat them gently, open the sprue plate with a piece of old hammer handle or shovel handle, and have cast thousands from each of them. They still align properly and work great. I do keep the alignment pins on all my molds lubed.

[BAGTIC]

Been using them since the early 1970's. Haven't worn one out yet.

[fredj338]

You measure a molds life span in number of bullets cast, not years you own one. I have maybe 3K thru one of my 6cav molds, it's still going fine. The few 2cavs I have get used very little. With Lee, get a good one, treat it nice, it will probably outlast you. Get a bad one, treat it poorly, it's gonna fail sooner than later.

[Moiecol]

I just received mine lee 2 cavity molds 45acp/30-30 two weeks ago. After the first 50+ attempts too hot/ cold etc. I have 200---45 / 300---30-30

[RobS]

You measure a molds life span in number of bullets cast, not years you own one. I have maybe 3K thru one of my 6cav molds, it's still going fine. The few 2cavs I have get used very little. With Lee, get a good one, treat it nice, it will probably outlast you. Get a bad one, treat it poorly, it's gonna fail sooner than later.

<<<<<+1>>>>>

[Mr. Farknocker]

YhI have a lee 2 cavity mold that casts 124 gr rn .356/9mm. After casting a little over 500 bullets the blocks no longer align properly. The blocks line up properly on the vertical plane but not laterally. I tried to close the mold on a flat surface to make sure that the blocks align themselves vertically (which was never a problem) and squared the blocks laterally by pushing the mold into a flat piece of steel and that reduced the misalignment but the problem persists. I don't consider myself as a mold abuser but can honestly say that I didn't baby he mold either. I routinely lubed the sprue and mold alignment pins and used a wooden dowel to strike the sprue. I also tapped the handle to knock the bullets out and have never struck the blocks. Either I'm doing something wrong, got a bad mold, the mold is too delicate or a combination of all three.

[Mr. Farknocker]

YhI have a lee 2 cavity mold that casts 124 gr rn .356/9mm. After casting a little over 500 bullets the blocks no longer align properly. The blocks line up properly on the vertical plane but not laterally. I tried to close the mold on a flat surface to make sure that the blocks align themselves vertically (which was never a problem) and squared the blocks laterally by pushing the mold into a flat piece of steel and that reduced the misalignment but the problem persists. I don't consider myself as a mold abuser but can honestly say that I didn't baby he mold either. I routinely lubed the sprue and mold alignment pins and used a wooden dowel to strike the sprue. I also tapped the handle to knock the bullets out and have never struck the blocks. Either I'm doing something wrong, got a bad mold, the mold is too delicate or a combination of all three.

Lee's 10-15-13 response to my inquiry:

Based on your description, it sounds as though the mold may have been overheated, causing the alignment pins to float. The pins can be driven back into position when the mold is cold and can then be staked into place. A tell tale sign the mold has been over heated, is the male and female alignment pins have changed color, temper.
If you are unable to get the pins realigned, return the mold and we can repair it, if it is not repairable, it will be replaced for a new mold at half price.

I'll try to adjust the alignment pins and see what happens