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Dirty30
09-03-2013, 01:39 AM
I bought a 1903A3 some time ago, but have only recently devoted some time to it. It groups very nicely, but consistently about 10" high at 100 yds. I checked the tension on the barrel lugs, and tightened them according to the old TM, and test fired it again with no visible difference in performance. My next thought is to replace the front sight blade, as the old one seems to be worn, and I can't rule out the possibility that the previous owner may have tried to modify it in some way.

Am I on the right track? Or are there other troubleshooting steps I should take first?

Scharfschuetze
09-03-2013, 02:02 AM
Yes you are. You'll need a front sight that is about .08" higher than your current front sight to correct for the 10" elevation issue. That's assuming of course that your rear sight is at it's lowest setting.

Springfield front sights were issued in different heights to correct for the same problem that you now have.

And by the way, Hoo Ahh and "Powder River" for the 300th Field Artillery Regiment of your avitar.

Dirty30
09-03-2013, 02:12 AM
Let er' Buck!

Thanks for the info. It appears the front sight could be easily fabricated, it will just be like zeroing a flintlock. Are you a Redleg?

Bob S
09-03-2013, 08:48 AM
03A3 front sight blades came in 5 heights, lettered A through E, with A being the highest. A percentage of rifles were targeted at 200 yards for POA=POI with M2 Ball ammunition. In the targeting process, the front sight height was selected that would get the rifle closest to POA=POI. Rifles not targeted by live fire were targeted by boresighting.

The front sight is very easy to make. They are .050" thick, I use galvanized framing plates from the home improvement store, by the time I stone the plating off, the thickness is about perfect, and it's just a case of shaping, drilling and cold-bluing. Make it a little higher than you thing you need, then fiel at the range to get your zero. Yeah, just like a flintlock. :D

Resp'y,
Bob S.

Dirty30
09-03-2013, 01:36 PM
Thanks Bob! The retaining pin appears to be a #52, but it is hard to tell. Is that what you have used in the past?

Wayne Smith
09-03-2013, 01:58 PM
Retaining pins are numbered? Does this correspond with drill bit numbers?

Dirty30
09-03-2013, 03:17 PM
No the pin isn't numbered, sorry to confuse. I was referring to the corresponding drill bit size, shortly before it occurred to me that I could mic it.

Bob S
09-04-2013, 10:08 PM
Thanks Bob! The retaining pin appears to be a #52, but it is hard to tell. Is that what you have used in the past?

Nope. For the blade pin, I use a wire brad that is slightly too fat to fit in the hole. Cut the head off with wire cutters; chuck it in a variable speed drill and touch it to some emmery cloth to slightly reduce the diameter, but leave it big enough to remain an interference fit. Give it a bit of taper so it startes easily. Shove it into the hole; trim both ends with wire cutters; dress ends with small grinding tip, cold blue. Unless you're planning on doing some bayonet fighting, that's all you need.

For the base pin, I do the same thing but with a finnishing nail. I much prefer to make up assemblies and change out the whole thing, base and blade. Much more easily done than getting that itty bitty blade pin out. For my rifles that retain the military front sight, I have one assembly for jacketed bullets, and one with a severely shortened blade for cast stuff. I can change them out at the range if I need to.

Resp'y,
Bob S.

Scharfschuetze
09-05-2013, 06:46 PM
Dirty 30,

No, I was a Yellow Leg (Air Cav) in VN and then SF for the rest of my career.

I have two relatives that are Red Legs though and both serve/served with the 300th. One in the Korean War as a gun captain on the old "Priest 105" and one that is currently with the outfit as a HIMARS rocketeer.

And by all means, "Let 'er Buck!"