cylinder pin fast in 58 remmy

[nekshot]

I acquired a pietta 58 remington clone with a cylinder pin that will not slide front. The gun is very clean but a little rust at each nipple and you can see reddish stuff between frame and pin. I seperated the front part of the pin and the pin by using the air hammer(as gently) as I could by trying to drive the pin out. This was after soaking for a good 2 weeks in kerosene and marvel oil. I warmed the cylinder, the pin and then left soak to no avail. The cylinder would not rotate at first now it spins freely. Any ideas and assuming the worst how would you go about cutting the cylinder to get it seperated from frame, obviusly a new pin and cylinder would be needed. Any Ideas?
nekshot

[nhrifle]

Remove the hammer (basically have to disassemble the whole thing). Once the hammer is out, you can see the end of the pin you are trying to remove. Hit it with some penetrating oil and drive out with a punch and hammer.

[john hayslip]

get some atf and acetone and mix about half and half to use as a oil for penetration. Doesn't seem to matter what type atf. I'm thinking some acetone might increase the penetrating power of Kroil too.

[nekshot]

ok thanks I,ll mix that concoction and strip the gun and let it soak. I was really losing hope to get this apart in a sane way.

[nhrifle]

Those aren't that bad to take apart, and when you have it into individual pieces you will have a chance to clean and lube everything. Sounds like it could use it!

[bigted]

as was stated above ... just disassemble the trigger guard and remove the cylinder stop and trigger after removing the trigger/stop spring. now remove the hammer and you will see the end of the pin you want/need to remove. remove the hinge pin/screw that holds the loading lever on and remove the loading lever and ram. now everything is outta the way from the cylinder pin so tapping it from the hammer end will allow it to break free. take your penetrating oil and douse it thoroughly front and rear and let set for a day or so before trying to punch the pin out. a bit of hair dryer heat may help just before tapping the brass punch and so tapping the pin outta the frame/cylinder.

[Hellgate]

Remember that on the Remingtons you have to push the hammer down (after removing the hammer screw) to expose the hand and small screw that holds the hand onto the hammer. Remove that small screw, then the hand down and out, and THEN you can move the hammer UP and out of its cutout to expose the end of the cylinder pin.

[nekshot]

Thanks for all the good info, tomorrow we will dissemble..

[nekshot]

well I am back and doing alittle more each week. Today I took this gun totally apart, pin came out fairly easy and then I smoothed and buffed and polished every thing that I could and put it back together. I was totally surprised how smooth it is now. Any ideas how to lighten the mainspring? Maybe I should let well enough alone but I don't think it needs to be this heavy. Thanks for your input on the little thingy(pawl?) down deep at the bottom of hammer.

[bigted]

I would hesitate on lightning up the main spring as you may just ruin the repeatability of snapping those caps on the nipples.

[Hellgate]

I've lightened the mainsprings of about 3 Remingtons by dropping in a mainspring from a Colt. The Colt spring lays a little more forward under less tension and does a pretty good job of lightening the hammer pull. Check to be sure the Colt spring is neither too long (it'll rub on the back of the hammer when cocked) nor too short (it'll jump off the hammer roller). I've only had to shorten one or two to get a good fit.